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ls1 to ls6 pcv conversion gone wrong

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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 05:32 PM
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Default ls1 to ls6 pcv conversion gone wrong

k i have an 01 ws6 56k miles m6, just switched it to the ls6 pcv(fun swap...not) but now the car idles perfect with no more oil smell or smoke but when i start driving it revs up to 2500-3000 for about 5 seconds then returns to idle(only revs up pressing in the clutch).. i can rev it sitting still and everthing is normal... could this be a vacuum leak or is it computer related as in a plug?? thanks.. also smells rich when it revs up on its own
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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Most likely an air leak.

I assumed you plugged the 2 holes left behind from the LS1 style pcv configuration?

One on the drivers side valve cover, the other on the pass side valve cover!
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 06:24 PM
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u sure your MAP is pluged in?,when u step on your gas pedal can u visually see that it is opening the throttle blade 100%?,TPS hooked up?,IAT hooked up?
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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Sounds like a small vacuum leak
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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yes i plugged both holes and im about to check all the wires and lines again(picked upsome starter fluid)... if its a vacuum leak why would it only rev up after a load was put on it(between shifts)
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 03:35 PM
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How, exactly, is your PCV system routed?
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 03:42 PM
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Make sure map is in good. I even use high temp and seal mine in on all 4 corners. Call me picky but as it is in the back of intake and not something you see or take off everyday its a nice precaution on a leak.

Check MAP and make sure none of your plugs split when putting them on to block the ports. Just sounds like a leak to me.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 06:14 PM
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You might also try resetting the PCM. Idle speed uses specific tables for clutch depressed, car moving faster than three mph, etc. PCM reset and idle relearn often fix problems like that.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 405HP_Z06
How, exactly, is your PCV system routed?
its routed the ls6 style, pcv comes from under the intake manifold to the front of the manifold and the hose from the pass valve cover to the tb.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 06:30 AM
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ok im gettin a diagnostic computer(like a dealership) from the base todayto find my problem and check the CEL, before i start is anyone elses MAP sensor feel loose, i can move mine like a 1/4 in every direction... also is there a site that will give me all of the measurements for the diagnostic tester?
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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you might try lika a haynes manual or something similiar.
Mine was loose but I put permatex around when I installed it and now its not too bad
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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Hey there, I just did this swap this past weekend and have the same issues still.

I opted for the LS6 valley plate with the fixed orfice in the plate and swapped it out. I went ahead and added dual Saikou Michi catch cans at the same time. My engine starts up fine when cold, but when its warm is another story. Revs to like 2500 for about 5 seconds and then comes back down to earth.

The only thing else I can see was that I unplugged the battery for about 2 hours while I did everything to the vehicle and this would have reset a lot of the learned things in the PCM...so maybe it'll just take some time...

But I'm at a loss as well. I am 99.9% sure I didn't jack something up during the install and the catch cans are routed correctly per Aarons diagrams, so let me know what you find out!

Thanks,

Cody B.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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[QUOTE=93BlackBeast;12367096]Hey there, I just did this swap this past weekend and have the same issues still.

I opted for the LS6 valley plate with the fixed orfice in the plate and swapped it out. I went ahead and added dual Saikou Michi catch cans at the same time. My engine starts up fine when cold, but when its warm is another story. Revs to like 2500 for about 5 seconds and then comes back down to earth.

The only thing else I can see was that I unplugged the battery for about 2 hours while I did everything to the vehicle and this would have reset a lot of the learned things in the PCM...so maybe it'll just take some time...

But I'm at a loss as well. I am 99.9% sure I didn't jack something up during the install and the catch cans are routed correctly per Aarons diagrams, so let me know what you find out!

Thanks,

Cody B.[/QUOTE

frustrating isnt it, well with my checker i got multiple codes P0121, P0200, P0107, P1637,P0102 now is there a way these can be linked together? like the P1637 how do i have an alternator problem now makes no sense to me, please help tired of riding with friends and bragging about my ws6 that isnt built but sits in the driveway lol
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:30 AM
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go back and retorque all of the intake bolts in the correct order and it should fix your issue... probably just a slight intake leak on one of the runners
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:30 AM
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sorry couldve posted what they are p0121- tps insufficient activity, p0200-injector circuit, p0107- map low voltage, p1637- L circuit something, p0102-maf sensor low frequency
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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I'll try the retorquing and see how it goes...I did the GM specs though with one pass at 44 in lbs and the second pass at 88 in lbs in the correct sequence...Hmmm...well, I'll get at it again...

Thanks for the input and good luck with your setup.

Oh, and mine doesn't have any codes btw, it just likes to Rev
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Well, I undid the intake and retorqued everything and all seems to be well now. I also added some silicone to my MAP plug..some of the orange grommet was cracked and broken...

I'll let you know if it fixed the prob for good.

Thanks,

Cody B.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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Well...false alarm. it still does the high revving on warm startups.

It doesn't make sense to me though that it would be a vacuum leak because if it was a vacuum leak, wouldn't it rev high all the time? even when its cold? Because it only shows up when its warm... It still runs great, but the high revving idle is just annoying....

Anymore input out there?
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