07+ truck coils
11-16-2009, 04:12 PM
#1
07+ truck coils have an opportuniy locally to pick up some coils from a 2008/9 suburban or tahoe with a 5.3L (was a enterprise rent a truck). i havent been able to look at them but does anyone know if these coils will work on a 02 ta, and clear the fuel rail/line input on the existing brackets
my factory coils are nearly shot.
my factory coils are nearly shot.
11-16-2009, 04:37 PM
#2
how do you know the factory coils are almost shot? just a lot of miles? i was under the impression that they either work to their full potential or they don't work at all
11-16-2009, 05:12 PM
#3
Creeper's right, coils work or don't work, there's no in between. There's nothing to wear out to reduce their performance over time.
As an answer to your question, the later truck coils will not plug into the LS1 coil harness or bolt to the LS1 coil brackets. Exactly which truck coils did you get? Have you see the coil swap thread that's been here?
As an answer to your question, the later truck coils will not plug into the LS1 coil harness or bolt to the LS1 coil brackets. Exactly which truck coils did you get? Have you see the coil swap thread that's been here?
11-16-2009, 09:06 PM
#5
i did not pick up any coils, yet. but i absolutely need to.
11-17-2009, 08:24 AM
#6
This has been discussed many time here. The coil windings in the housings don’t get shorter over time. The electronic trigger package either works or doesn’t work. If anything, there could be a intermittent problem causing them to stop working at times. If the coil works, it’ll spark at its designed voltage. The spark cannot "get weaker".
If you’re getting codes, swap the coils around and see if the problem follows the coil.
Don’t expect any substantial performance improvement with a coil change. Even the best upgrade to the heat sinked truck coils will show modest improvements.
If you’re getting codes, swap the coils around and see if the problem follows the coil.
Don’t expect any substantial performance improvement with a coil change. Even the best upgrade to the heat sinked truck coils will show modest improvements.
11-17-2009, 09:44 AM
#7
Not true, OF COURSE COILS CAN put out less voltage than designed! What happens over time is the winding inside the coil start to short because the insulation starts to break down over time. This causes less and less output until the coil fails completely. Coils can also fail suddenly if the winding shorts at the right place or goes completely open. There can be other reasons too that coils put out less power or stop working.
IF ANYONE TELLS YOU ANY DIFFERENT THEY don't know nuttin about how coils works!
IF ANYONE TELLS YOU ANY DIFFERENT THEY don't know nuttin about how coils works!
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11-17-2009, 10:52 AM
#8
Sorry sir, you are incorrect. What you say is contrary to the millions of coils in use, many of which function perfectly for hundreds of thousands of miles. Coils are potted in an insulation material and baked to cure and solidify the compound. If there were winding-to-winding shorts, the coil would soon fail completely as the arcing would quickly consume the potting compound.
Do you have experience in winding motors and transformers?
In trouble shooting these engines, it's often too easy to be a parts swapper starting with the ignition coils. Very amateur. And expensive. These coils are some of the most reliable ignition coils ever designed. The OP may have other issues that's why his starting point should be to move the coils around and see where the problem goes.
Do you have experience in winding motors and transformers?
In trouble shooting these engines, it's often too easy to be a parts swapper starting with the ignition coils. Very amateur. And expensive. These coils are some of the most reliable ignition coils ever designed. The OP may have other issues that's why his starting point should be to move the coils around and see where the problem goes.
11-17-2009, 06:32 PM
#9
ill double check here shortly and swap the rails from driver-pass side and see what happens tonight and give you my results. the car currently breaks up heavily between 2500-3000 on cold starts. its fine after driving a mile or 2. or letting the car sit and idle til at operating temp.
it does not throw any codes when it breaks up, the only time the missfire light flashes is very rarely right when i start up the car, if i shut the car off and turn it back on then its fine no flashing.
it does not throw any codes when it breaks up, the only time the missfire light flashes is very rarely right when i start up the car, if i shut the car off and turn it back on then its fine no flashing.
11-17-2009, 07:06 PM
#10
ok so i went out and swapped coils from driver to passenger side. the break changed to around 21-2200-2700, and would happen with less throttle of course. but now thankfully at driving speds there is no break up at the moment. i did not let the car warm up and i only took the car up the road (about a 2 mile drive) but it definitely feels different.
11-17-2009, 09:14 PM
#13
Sorry sir, you are incorrect. What you say is contrary to the millions of coils in use, many of which function perfectly for hundreds of thousands of miles. Coils are potted in an insulation material and baked to cure and solidify the compound. If there were winding-to-winding shorts, the coil would soon fail completely as the arcing would quickly consume the potting compound.
Do you have experience in winding motors and transformers?
In trouble shooting these engines, it's often too easy to be a parts swapper starting with the ignition coils. Very amateur. And expensive. These coils are some of the most reliable ignition coils ever designed. The OP may have other issues that's why his starting point should be to move the coils around and see where the problem goes.
Do you have experience in winding motors and transformers?
In trouble shooting these engines, it's often too easy to be a parts swapper starting with the ignition coils. Very amateur. And expensive. These coils are some of the most reliable ignition coils ever designed. The OP may have other issues that's why his starting point should be to move the coils around and see where the problem goes.
11-18-2009, 05:49 AM
#15
You will need to use the truck coil bracket and it mounts the coils up higher. SO! The truck coils will not clear your stock fuel line, you will need to install a after market fuel rail in order to be able to use those coils. One thing nice about them is that you can chance your plugs with out having to remove the coil packs to get in there.
Good luck
Good luck
11-18-2009, 06:30 AM
#16
Here's the link to the coil swap thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...p-18-6-tq.html
It's a very long thread but makes for good reading.
You'll want to look at post 18 for the correct parts.
Posts 48 & 72 detail the installation and clearance issues.
If you're not upgrading to the truck coils with the heat sinks on the back, don't bother as these are the only ones that improve performance.
The installation can be done without changing fuel rails.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...p-18-6-tq.html
It's a very long thread but makes for good reading.
You'll want to look at post 18 for the correct parts.
Posts 48 & 72 detail the installation and clearance issues.
If you're not upgrading to the truck coils with the heat sinks on the back, don't bother as these are the only ones that improve performance.
The installation can be done without changing fuel rails.
11-18-2009, 10:15 AM
#17
11-18-2009, 05:22 PM
#19
I have worked on thousands of vehicles in 47 years in the business. And i have looked at endless scope patterns in that time frame. I will tell you that coil output can definately drop off. Basically coils are very reliable but they can loose spark energy. Case in point chrysler V8 coils have a nasty habit of going bad and the spark energy falls off. I had a 318 with a drivibality problem that stumped several mechanics. The owner had the problem for almost a year before bringing to my shop. A quick run on the dyne with a cylinder scope showed the culprit. The coil was WEAK. I also had a ford turbo coupe last month that had a mid range BOG. It was only between 2000 and 4000 RPM's. Guess what it was the summit coil the customer installed. Coils can and do break down and reduce spark energy. I will admit that GM coils are problem free to an extent. But in 47 years in the business NEVER SAY NEVER. That is a statement that can bite you in the BUTT Hope this Helps TOM
Last edited by tom falco; 11-18-2009 at 05:28 PM.