Any Reason not to get 1 7/8" Kooks?
12-21-2009, 07:39 AM
#27
No, they haven't. Comments like the one above about a 115mm TB are ridiculous too. If the OP came in here and asked that money wasn't an issue and next year he would have heads and cam, but needed help on which intake, would you tell him just to get an LS6 because a FAST 92/92 would be overkill on his stock engine? That's basically what you're doing by telling him no on the 1 7/8th's headers. I'm almost done with my small build. It will be stock internal, LS6 intake, 1 7/8ths kooks, 3" y pipe to 4" merge, 4" cutout, and into stock catback. I'll be getting a dyno tune end of January/ early February. Keep an eye on my forum name in the dyno section when I post results. Although, it will be going through a MWC fab'ed 9" with 4.11 gears.
12-21-2009, 10:21 AM
#28
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No, they haven't. Comments like the one above about a 115mm TB are ridiculous too. If the OP came in here and asked that money wasn't an issue and next year he would have heads and cam, but needed help on which intake, would you tell him just to get an LS6 because a FAST 92/92 would be overkill on his stock engine? That's basically what you're doing by telling him no on the 1 7/8th's headers. I'm almost done with my small build. It will be stock internal, LS6 intake, 1 7/8ths kooks, 3" y pipe to 4" merge, 4" cutout, and into stock catback. I'll be getting a dyno tune end of January/ early February. Keep an eye on my forum name in the dyno section when I post results. Although, it will be going through a MWC fab'ed 9" with 4.11 gears.
Again, if the two are the same or close in price get the 1 7/8s!
12-21-2009, 10:45 AM
#29
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No, they haven't. Comments like the one above about a 115mm TB are ridiculous too. If the OP came in here and asked that money wasn't an issue and next year he would have heads and cam, but needed help on which intake, would you tell him just to get an LS6 because a FAST 92/92 would be overkill on his stock engine? That's basically what you're doing by telling him no on the 1 7/8th's headers. I'm almost done with my small build. It will be stock internal, LS6 intake, 1 7/8ths kooks, 3" y pipe to 4" merge, 4" cutout, and into stock catback. I'll be getting a dyno tune end of January/ early February. Keep an eye on my forum name in the dyno section when I post results. Although, it will be going through a MWC fab'ed 9" with 4.11 gears.
12-21-2009, 11:57 AM
#30
maybe your right on that, but he did not say that he was. the debate that happened on here awhile back wasnt on an all stock engine either, and it only showed a 5 hp difference on an updated set of 1/78 headers compared to an old set of 1/34. when building a system, it should be planned on what the end goal will be not just cobbled together . from intake to exhaust tips, but hey this is only my opinion.
12-21-2009, 12:01 PM
#31
If I were you I wouldn't buy the kooks headers I have a set of 1-3/4 and they fit like **** I called kooks about the headers and also provided them with pictures they told me my k-member tab was rubbing it because it wasn't cut right from the factory, total BS i ended up cutting some off the tab and they still hit, Kooks believed my car was flawed from the factory and not there headers they did not offer me to return that set and ship out another or nothing I basically was stuck with a crap fitting header, in the end SPARTAN PERFORMANCE FIXEDthe problem by heating the header up and molding it to where it should have been in the first place. as a matter of fact ask my mechanic Josh at Spartan Performance, also the y pipe fits like crap and I had SPARTAN PERFORMANCE to fab up a piece so the y pipe wont hit the car Its not like kooks was going to help based on there help with my headers
How many times can you say Spartan Performance? Definitely not a plug for a non-sponser.
12-21-2009, 01:00 PM
#32
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You're right. And that's what everyone who's said get the 1 7/8th has been saying (including myself). If he has any plans EVER to go with bigger cubes or forced induction, he needs to get the 1 7/8ths as the loss on the mid and low ends will be minimal. If he's staying stock cubes with a mild heads/cam....then he needs to stick with 1 3/4. I don't think ANYONE has said 1 7/8ths is the preferred choice on a stock engine.
I got EDELBROCK 1-7/8 for that reason also.
12-21-2009, 01:53 PM
#34
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12-21-2009, 03:12 PM
#35
the problem is some people think everybody is building a race car of some sort on this site. and base there opinion on that, its always put nitrous on it or a 4000 to 5000 stall converter on a street car. and as far as the headers most people say go bigger because they did or know somebody that has with no real comparison or dyno results.( just to clarify some people have dyno results but there not all stock usually). i am not trying to argue with you on this, i just think it is better to make plans than just throw parts at your car.
My last car has a 4000 VIG, acted more like a 4400 or so. My current car has a PTC 4000 and is a true 4000.
I don't mind driving either one. Looking for a car for the GF right now and she will also have a 4000 converter.
BTW, I have Kooks 1 7/8 and my car runs better than expected times with my setup, especially the 60'.
12-21-2009, 05:07 PM
#36
From the little dyno results I've seen, you give up just a hair down low with the 1 7/8s, below around 2000 rpms. But some gains in the midrange and clearly an advantage up top. So maybe it feels a little more sluggish off the line driving around but realistically in any racing scenario you are not spending much time in the low end.
I bought 1 3/4s (TTS's) way back when that's all their was, but I'm bumping up to 1 7/8s this winter and should have a decent gain from the headers, along with going from a 2.5 to 3" Y. With the H/C and spray on top, I wish I had just done it from the beginning.
Unless you are dead set on staying bolt-on/stock internal forever, I'd get the 1 7/8s. You might as well give yourself a good foundation and room to grow. The tradeoffs are minimal.
I bought 1 3/4s (TTS's) way back when that's all their was, but I'm bumping up to 1 7/8s this winter and should have a decent gain from the headers, along with going from a 2.5 to 3" Y. With the H/C and spray on top, I wish I had just done it from the beginning.
Unless you are dead set on staying bolt-on/stock internal forever, I'd get the 1 7/8s. You might as well give yourself a good foundation and room to grow. The tradeoffs are minimal.
12-21-2009, 09:58 PM
#37
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well i can tell you my 68 camaro has 1 3/4 with a 408 sbc and runs 9.60's and my dads nova has a 421 also 9.60's with 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 stepped they made 15 more hp then then 1 7/8 dyno headers those are just gen 1 sbc's but cubes and tube sizes are comparwable
12-22-2009, 12:45 AM
#38
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One way to look at it, dont be scared that if you put the 1 7/8s on that you will lose your bottom end, you will gain EVERYWHERE over the stock system. Honestly either one is a win/win compared to the stock system. As stated earlier, if you know you will stay bolt on only then stay with the 1 3/4s but if there is a thought in your mind about doing heads/cam or fi etc. then def go with the 1 7/8ths. Either set will produce a nice gain over the stock manifolds.
12-22-2009, 02:49 AM
#39
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if you have the money get kooks... if money is tight and/or you want to spend it on something else get the 1 3/4's... that's my view on it... not bigger is better...
12-23-2009, 12:55 PM
#40
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Car has never been in a accident, yes I think it was a bad batch, wish they would have done something about it rather than just leave me hanging with a bad fitting header, im glad they fit for you but not me, I plan on getting a c6 here pretty soon and I can assure you I on't be using that kooks crap ARH will get my money, all i wanted was another pair that fitted couldn't get so they basically could care less about you after they get your money bad customer service in my eyes, so i won't be doing anymore business with them thats all I'm saying