Wanted: Engine Builder
So, I am looking at possibly getting a bonus check in a couple months and am probably going to spend it all on the car. I have a stock motor with 113,xxx miles on it. It has leaks, bad water pump and just the simple fact that I trust it about as far as I can throw it. So, I would like to get a price to build a motor. Anybody with recommendations is welcome to throw in their .02. Thanks.
I was hoping for a little input on some favorites from some people. A place in Texas would be nice but I might be moving up to PA so I may be willing to trailer the car up there to have it done.
So, I am looking at possibly getting a bonus check in a couple months and am probably going to spend it all on the car. I have a stock motor with 113,xxx miles on it. It has leaks, bad water pump and just the simple fact that I trust it about as far as I can throw it. So, I would like to get a price to build a motor. Anybody with recommendations is welcome to throw in their .02. Thanks.
What I wouldn't do is have the work done by a local mechanic. Have the work done instead by a reputable company who works on these cars on a daily basis. Now it is much easier and cheaper to buy a crate motor, short block, or long block from a number of sponsors on this site in any flavor you want with the expectation that the build will be high quality compared to generic local builders some of whom put out work kinda like the tranny shops you see on every street corner.
Depending upon the backload of work at TSP they could have your car finished in days compared to some local yokal who might have it for weeks.
You will also want to have the car tuned - same thing - don't use some wanna be tuner. Get it done by professionals shops that are found at this site.
IMO it's best to have the engine and tuner from the same shop rather than two shops. That way if there are issues you deal with one shop rather than two.
Lastly - if you use a sponsor whether it be in TX or PA and you do have issues in most cases you will get good customer service response.
But what happens if you have a local builder in TX, move to PA and then have an issue. I would be willing to bet the customer service to rectify the issue would be questionable - probably non-existent.
Bottom -line - some local builders are in the dark ages when it comes to customer service compared to customer service by sponsors on this site.
The internet is your friend - it keeps people honest.
PA like Texas is a big state. You might want to be more specific as to the location in PA.
PS: A new crate motor (some are pretty reasonable) might be your best bet.
Having your car worked on locally is the only logical option to me. The only way you're able to know what's going on is VIA the mouth of the person at the company you speak with. Which is basically going to be whatever you want to hear. I've seen close friends of mine have bad experiences sending their cars places. I'd totally check out Texas Speed if I were you.
I guess I did not specify, but I will have some go fast goodies installed on the new one. Otherwise, I would just get a crate. Would like a bottom end capable of handling a little bit of spray, heads, cam, intake, etc. Still want a car that can be streetable because I will let my wife drive it so long as the traction control is on. Something that would require no more than say a 2500+/- stall. Thanks for the great advice. I am not sure what area of PA I would be going to yet. Depends on openings.
Last edited by Rowdypalooza; Dec 22, 2009 at 04:20 PM.
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I guess I did not specify, but I will have some go fast goodies installed on the new one. Otherwise, I would just get a crate. Would like a bottom end capable of handling a little bit of spray, heads, cam, intake, etc. Still want a car that can be streetable because I will let my wife drive it so long as the traction control is on. Something that would require no more than say a 2500+/- stall. Thanks for the great advice. I am not sure what area of PA I would be going to yet. Depends on openings.
As for the stall - IMO - you might as well stay stock if you plan to go with a 2500 stall. My Yank 3400PY is very tight and drives like stock until you press the go-fast pedal. IMO at least a 3-3200 stall would be better choice. Find a ride with someone with a non-stock stall to get a better feel for how each stall range drives compared to stock.
TSP should be your logical choice unless you can find and have complete faith in a local installer and tuner who would agree to install a short/long lock block built by TSP or any of the sponsors here. Plus if you have TSP do the install they can tune it at the same time.
Do some searches of the subject here. I think you will find that the consensus is that unless you do most of the labor yourself - it is cheaper to buy something built rather than attempt to rebuild your own engine.
LSX motors are extemely reliable even with BIG horsepower if built and tuned right, so the builder and tuner is extemely important if you want long term satisfaction after dropping 5 - 20 grand and up on your 'pride and joy'.
So, I am looking at possibly getting a bonus check in a couple months and am probably going to spend it all on the car. I have a stock motor with 113,xxx miles on it. It has leaks, bad water pump and just the simple fact that I trust it about as far as I can throw it. So, I would like to get a price to build a motor. Anybody with recommendations is welcome to throw in their .02. Thanks.
I am in Oregom so there is no sales tax involved either which is nice when you consider the 8+% on a $4000 sale. We can work with your current block or start with a new block, it all about hp goals and budget. 347 or a 383 with your current block or we can step up the cubes by doing looking at a few other options 


