VeTTeMaNC486

I started removing my exhaust yesterday so I could install my new long tubes on my 2000 trans am. I ran into a problem, the back manifold bolt on the driver side is broken off at the head of the bolt, like flush with the manifold flange. The car has never had an exhaust leak of any kind from this... Whats got me puzzled, I got this car in 2002, with 18k miles on it, it was a GM executive car, so I am the first private owner. The only time anyone other than me has touched the car with a wrench is once to change the powersteering pump right before a vacation, and twice to remove the transmission. Unless one of them was screwing around with the bolts back there, how in the hell is the bolt head broken off? I guess I am gonna try to get it out with a pair of vice grips but I am not very comfident that they will get it out. I wonder if it will leak if I just put it back like it was with the headers? The flange on the headers look just as thick as the stock manifold, if not more so. I have thought about screwing a nut onto the threads and welding it on to remove it, that is if I have enough room to do so.

Opinions please?

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Get an easy out.

tom falco

The bolt must be heated to remove it. I weld nuts on all the time it accomplishes two things. It heats the bolt nicely and then the welded nut makes it better than using vice grips To back it out.

MN-Brent

Just went through this with both sides, the rear bolt was snapped even with the head, not the manifold. Motor was delivered to me this way, so it was out of the car.

Try a 3/16 drill and get a square screw extractor for 3/16 from Sears.

Drill 1/2 way through length of bolt. Pound in screw extractor and try to back it out with an open end wrench or large adjustable wrench.

JUST DONT SNAP THAT SUCKER.

If it feels like it is flexing before the bolt starts to turn, then stop!!

Plan B is to drill out the rest of the bolt with a 3/16 drill, reverse or left hand oriented is good but not neccessary. Go buy an M8 x 1.25 heli-coil or perma coil kit and tap out the new hole for the heli-coil. Use some type of oil on the tap that comes with the kit.

Its really not that hard of a job, that is if the motor is out of the car. In the car is a biatch. There was a recent thread on this where a right angle drill with a steel template was used to keep the drill straight while the motor was in the car-with success. Make the template based on the exhaust gasket holes.

Brent.

VeTTeMaNC486

Will probably weld a nut on it.

I am just wondering how this happened.

Seems like everything I do, I run into something that shouldn't be. Isn't that the name of the game though?