Update: Help with pully removal? Problem.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Pocatello Idaho
Update: Help with pully removal? Problem. Ok so I have an SLP underdrive that I thought I was going to install tonight, but I can't get the bolt to break free! I just spent the last 1 1/2 hours reading trying to find some way to get it to break free. I can't get this damn bolt to break free. I searched, but most people seem to have a problem getting it on, but I can't even get that far. Any help would be appreciated.
UPDATE: Ok so I got the pully on and seated using a threaded rod M16 at 2.00 same as the bolt that came out. Anyway so I put the old GM bolt in and torqued it to the specs on my instruction sheet. The bolt went in easy didn't force it. So when I go to back it out for the new bolt it won't move. Finally got it out and it looks like this one in this thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cs-inside.html
What the hell happened? I didn't use the bolt to seat it as I have read many times not to. Am I screwed? Any suggestions?
UPDATE: Ok so I got the pully on and seated using a threaded rod M16 at 2.00 same as the bolt that came out. Anyway so I put the old GM bolt in and torqued it to the specs on my instruction sheet. The bolt went in easy didn't force it. So when I go to back it out for the new bolt it won't move. Finally got it out and it looks like this one in this thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cs-inside.html
What the hell happened? I didn't use the bolt to seat it as I have read many times not to. Am I screwed? Any suggestions?
Last edited by Breathing Fire; Dec 30, 2009 at 07:19 PM. Reason: New issue
Ok so I have an SLP underdrive that I thought I was going to install tonight, but I can't get the bolt to break free! I just spent the last 1 1/2 hours reading trying to find some way to get it to break free. I can't get this damn bolt to break free. I searched, but most people seem to have a problem getting it on, but I can't even get that far. Any help would be appreciated.
Heat the bolt good and the entire bolt expands and then cools and retracts helping break lose the loctite and whatever crud...heating isn't necessary though. I've take my last three out with just an impact. Not sure why everyone has a problem with these.
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You must have a damn fine gun. My IR 231 wouldn't budge it with the air cranked up to max.
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People have luck with heat because it breaks down the red loctite... I however feel like sticking a torch in a tight space surrounded by easily ignitable fodder is a bad idea.
Back before I had any air tools I'd stand in the engine bay and jump on the breaker bar.
Back before I had any air tools I'd stand in the engine bay and jump on the breaker bar.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Pocatello Idaho
Hey thanks guys. I drove the crap out of the car and got it good and warm. Came off pretty easy after that. Thanks. One more thing the new pully is keyed and the crank isn't does it matter how I put it back on?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 531
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From: Pocatello Idaho
No it was in 5th gear. Thanks guys. I have it off now just need a block of wood and or a longer bolt for the new one. I haven't gotten to it yet i'm just lazy today. Thanks for the help all.
Don't bother with a longer bolt.
GET A THREADED ROD!!! With the same threads, some washeres and 2 Nuts.
Seating the rod to the bottom gives the most strength and stability and will not allow the bolt to be broken. I used McMaster for the rod but any place with the correct pitch and thread count will do the trick. I have seen countless guys strip the threads or break bolts off because they were lazy.
GET A THREADED ROD!!! With the same threads, some washeres and 2 Nuts.
Seating the rod to the bottom gives the most strength and stability and will not allow the bolt to be broken. I used McMaster for the rod but any place with the correct pitch and thread count will do the trick. I have seen countless guys strip the threads or break bolts off because they were lazy.