Motor mounts dont line up after replacing (Prothane)
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Motor mounts dont line up after replacing (Prothane)
i bought the GM motor and trns mount set from prothane...
got the old mounts out, put the new ones in, and now the bracket won't line up to the holes.... it's about an 1/8" off, almost like i need to pull the motor forward...
has anyone run into this? do i actually need to somehow pull the motor forward?
got the old mounts out, put the new ones in, and now the bracket won't line up to the holes.... it's about an 1/8" off, almost like i need to pull the motor forward...
has anyone run into this? do i actually need to somehow pull the motor forward?
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Do driver's side first, don't tighten bolt down, just slide bolt through. the issue that i saw with mine was that with the weight of the transmission it won't line up easily. you can loosen the transmission cross member but you can do it without. i ended up doing this solo so using a prybar wasn't really a possibility. i ended up using a scissor jack to move the motor where i wanted it.
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#9
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I actually had better luck installing the passenger long bolt first.
Then line up the drivers side the best you can. It won't be perfect, just get it as close as you can.
Next, install the long bolt from the Firewall side of the mount (opposite the way it was installed from the factory). With the bolt started like this, you have room to hammer that ****** home with a mallet.
This is what worked on the three sets I've helped install. And, as was previously mentioned, having a helper with a prybar is never a bad idea. Good luck, man.
Then line up the drivers side the best you can. It won't be perfect, just get it as close as you can.
Next, install the long bolt from the Firewall side of the mount (opposite the way it was installed from the factory). With the bolt started like this, you have room to hammer that ****** home with a mallet.
This is what worked on the three sets I've helped install. And, as was previously mentioned, having a helper with a prybar is never a bad idea. Good luck, man.
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i figured it'd boil down to gravity and somethin to do with the tranny....
what part of the engine were you guys prying? and against what were you pushing? (i can't find any place that seems to have enough room for a prybar, cept maybe the top)
@ Mumbles
my issue isn't with installing the long bolts... jus teh smaller ones that connect the mount itself to the block...
what part of the engine were you guys prying? and against what were you pushing? (i can't find any place that seems to have enough room for a prybar, cept maybe the top)
@ Mumbles
my issue isn't with installing the long bolts... jus teh smaller ones that connect the mount itself to the block...
#11
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I actually had better luck installing the passenger long bolt first.
Then line up the drivers side the best you can. It won't be perfect, just get it as close as you can.
Next, install the long bolt from the Firewall side of the mount (opposite the way it was installed from the factory). With the bolt started like this, you have room to hammer that ****** home with a mallet.
Then line up the drivers side the best you can. It won't be perfect, just get it as close as you can.
Next, install the long bolt from the Firewall side of the mount (opposite the way it was installed from the factory). With the bolt started like this, you have room to hammer that ****** home with a mallet.
#12
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i figured it'd boil down to gravity and somethin to do with the tranny....
what part of the engine were you guys prying? and against what were you pushing? (i can't find any place that seems to have enough room for a prybar, cept maybe the top)
@ Mumbles
my issue isn't with installing the long bolts... jus teh smaller ones that connect the mount itself to the block...
what part of the engine were you guys prying? and against what were you pushing? (i can't find any place that seems to have enough room for a prybar, cept maybe the top)
@ Mumbles
my issue isn't with installing the long bolts... jus teh smaller ones that connect the mount itself to the block...
Mmm... I can't say I've run into this problem.
My only advice would be to play around with how high you have the motor jacked up. Maybe slip the mounts into the pedestals, then lower the motor to see if the holes line up better when the motor is closer to being in its normal position.
You could also loosen the four bolts that hold each pedestal to the K-member. (BlackBADaSS02 suggested this in previous post, as well.) The way you describe the problem in your first post, it sounds as if the pedestals are in the way to properly line up the bolt holes. This would allow some movement of the pedestals, hopefully giving you enough room to manuever the mounts against the block.
Thats all I can come up with. Good luck, man.
Last edited by Mumbles; 01-07-2010 at 02:25 PM.
#14
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The only issue I had installing mine was on the driver side. I had 3 out of the 4 bolts started but couldn't for the life of me get the lower left bolt to start. What happened was the prothane bushing was a little to wide and to bolt would bump up against it and wouldn't let the bolt quite line up. So I had to gind down the washer on the bolt. Didn't have to take much off but that let it get started in the hole. This might not be an issue with you but just something to look out for.
#16
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Loosening the pedestal bolts is the way to go, that's how I did it. It gives you enough play to line everything up and pull it together. Alternatively I'm trying to recall how much adjustability is in the trans mount. Usually the holes are a little bit elongated to account for slight tolerance variation.
#18
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you need to bolt the mounts to the engine first and as leftySS stated sometimes the mount will get in the way of one of the bolts to the engine, I just had to mess with it for a while to get it started. Then lower it down onto the pedistals and use pry bar to persuade it in place so the long bolts line up.
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i used a prybar and found it easier to do pass side then driver side for mine, took a few cold beers, 2-3 breaks for more beer, and patience. it will go ya just gotta be patient with it
#20
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AHHH YES. The lubricating properties of beer!
Yhup, with the stock K-Frame, loosening the pedestals would make getting the mounts in easier. It's us with aftermarket K-Frames that have it tough. I suppose one advantage the Spohn K-Frame has over the others is that it still retains the pedestals.
Yhup, with the stock K-Frame, loosening the pedestals would make getting the mounts in easier. It's us with aftermarket K-Frames that have it tough. I suppose one advantage the Spohn K-Frame has over the others is that it still retains the pedestals.