Help with Kooks install
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: McKinney, TX
Help with Kooks install Well I got my kooks headers and ORY for my 2002 ws6 convertible and I have the old exhaust out and started putting the headers in. For the life of me I can't figure out how get the drivers side to fit up between the firewall, the block where the oil filter goes and the part of the frame where the lower A-Arm connects. From what I've read, kooks installs pretty easily. It's hitting against those three things every angle I try. I'm not even close to touching anything else. I've even hammered the firewall to make a little more clearance but nothing is even close. I need about an inch more room. The passenger side bolted up with tons of room to spare.
I'm almost wondering if I have the wrong headers, on 2001-2002 cars we don't have EGR, yet the headers I got have a port for EGR. I had to order a blockoff plate to close that off. You would think that the headers would have come with that if it didn't need the EGR, especially for the price of these things.
I started to loosen the drivers side motor mount and tried to tip the engine a little to get more room but it didn't move much. I'm hoping I don't have to take both mounts loose and jack the engine up a bunch. Maybe because it's a convertible things don't fit right?
Anyone have any ideas? I think I'm going to try loosening the transmission tail shaft and jacking that up a bit and see if it helps.
I'm almost wondering if I have the wrong headers, on 2001-2002 cars we don't have EGR, yet the headers I got have a port for EGR. I had to order a blockoff plate to close that off. You would think that the headers would have come with that if it didn't need the EGR, especially for the price of these things.
I started to loosen the drivers side motor mount and tried to tip the engine a little to get more room but it didn't move much. I'm hoping I don't have to take both mounts loose and jack the engine up a bunch. Maybe because it's a convertible things don't fit right?
Anyone have any ideas? I think I'm going to try loosening the transmission tail shaft and jacking that up a bit and see if it helps.
A reply I made in the following thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ns-needed.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ns-needed.html
Negative - I just installed my Kooks 1-7/8" headers a few weeks ago, and they went in just like my Kooks 1-3/4" headers they replaced.
Passenger side - they'll slide right in. If using header studs, you can pre-install all studs into the head and hang the gasket on them before moving the header into place.
Driver's side - it is a bit more tricky, but you don't have to remove ANYTHING if you do it properly (that means you don't have to remove the oil filter, drain plug, motor mount, nothing). What you need to do is get the car up high enough in the air (a truck-sized jack stand is high enough) so that you can turn the header 90 degrees so that the collector is facing down. You can maneuver the header flange straight up so that it will start coming up by the back of the driver's side head. Once you get it up far enough, you'll be able to start rotating it into place. It might take a little pushing, but it'll clear everything, including the k-member and steering shaft while they are still installed. Note - if using header studs, you won't be able to pre-install any of them in the head. You'll need that room to be able to rotate the header into place.
As already stated, if you are even thinking about doing a motor mount swap at ANY point in the future, do it right then and there. It is WAY easier to do without the exhaust hanging from the heads.
Passenger side - they'll slide right in. If using header studs, you can pre-install all studs into the head and hang the gasket on them before moving the header into place.
Driver's side - it is a bit more tricky, but you don't have to remove ANYTHING if you do it properly (that means you don't have to remove the oil filter, drain plug, motor mount, nothing). What you need to do is get the car up high enough in the air (a truck-sized jack stand is high enough) so that you can turn the header 90 degrees so that the collector is facing down. You can maneuver the header flange straight up so that it will start coming up by the back of the driver's side head. Once you get it up far enough, you'll be able to start rotating it into place. It might take a little pushing, but it'll clear everything, including the k-member and steering shaft while they are still installed. Note - if using header studs, you won't be able to pre-install any of them in the head. You'll need that room to be able to rotate the header into place.
As already stated, if you are even thinking about doing a motor mount swap at ANY point in the future, do it right then and there. It is WAY easier to do without the exhaust hanging from the heads.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: McKinney, TX
Thanks.
You will more than likely have to unbolt the motor mount. I've dealt with this on so many sets of Kooks that I automatically remove the motor mount when installing them now, instead of waiting the time trying to wrestle around it. You'll also need to take the steering knuckle out, it'll make life much easier.
When I installed my Kooks 1 7/8", all I removed was the oil filter. The trick is to get the car as high off the ground as you can. You need to be able to stand the headers up on the collector under the car.
