waterboy454

I've got an '02 CETA convertible with Billy Boat catback exhaust (the most beautiful exhaust ever and sounds AWESOME!!) and just purchased new Kooks 1 7/8 silver coated headers w/cats and Y-pipe to install. I know they will come with some sub-par instructions as most parts have, but would like to know if anyone has some detailed instructions and pics on this install??!!

I hear horror stories and ones that aren't so bad...hoping this is the latter. I hope to do a cam and MAF upgrade next. Curious also about any suggestions/tips for this install. Still about another week before my headers are here, so doing some prep work.

Thanks for any help--Kyle

Damian

iTrader: (89)

The driver's side motor mount has to come out in order to get the header in.

Everything else is pretty straight forward to other header installs.

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

If you are installing Longtubes & Y-pipe on any LS1 4th Gen you should really consider upgrading the motor mounts as well. Two good reasons:

The first is, the motor mounts are much easier to access with the exhaust manifolds and factory Y out of the way.

The second is, once you've completed the install and go for the first test drive, you are gonna be pissed if/when you hear your new Y-pipe banging on the floorpan. Then you're gonna be even more ticked off when you realize you have to pretty much undo your Header/Y-pipe Install to upgrade your motor mounts in order to prevent this from happening every time you get on it.

Bonus! Third good reason! If Damian is correct, the drivers motor mount has to be removed to install the 1 7/8" Headers, you may as well upgrade it and the passenger side with either Poly MM or Solid MM.

Tomorrow my brother and I are starting on his LT/ORY Install on his 35th Anniversary SS and will be upgrading to Poly Motor Mounts with the factory exhaust outta the way. I've done two other header installs this year and both times we did the motor mounts and haven't had any trouble with a banging Y-pipe. I really urge you to consider doing them as well. Either way...Good luck with your install!

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Negative - I just installed my Kooks 1-7/8" headers a few weeks ago, and they went in just like my Kooks 1-3/4" headers they replaced.

Passenger side - they'll slide right in. If using header studs, you can pre-install all studs into the head and hang the gasket on them before moving the header into place.

Driver's side - it is a bit more tricky, but you don't have to remove ANYTHING if you do it properly (that means you don't have to remove the oil filter, drain plug, motor mount, nothing). What you need to do is get the car up high enough in the air (a truck-sized jack stand is high enough) so that you can turn the header 90 degrees so that the collector is facing down. You can maneuver the header flange straight up so that it will start coming up by the back of the driver's side head. Once you get it up far enough, you'll be able to start rotating it into place. It might take a little pushing, but it'll clear everything, including the k-member and steering shaft while they are still installed. Note - if using header studs, you won't be able to pre-install any of them in the head. You'll need that room to be able to rotate the header into place.

As already stated, if you are even thinking about doing a motor mount swap at ANY point in the future, do it right then and there. It is WAY easier to do without the exhaust hanging from the heads.

waterboy454

Thanks so much, great advise. What type of mounts did you use and where did you get them?

waterboy454

Thank you. I think I'll need to get some truck stands because my car stands won't be tall enough. Did you wrap your pipes before installing as to not scrap them up? Someone else mentioned it to me-

OhTwo

iTrader: (13)

Kooks 1 7/8" as well. Didn't wrap mine and there really wasn't much for them to scrape against. Keeping the car high for the drivers side (as above) is required but then it slides right in. Watch the coolant sensor when sliding the drivers side in - I was doing it by myself and snapped the plastic (where the wire attaches) off.

The only other issue I had was because the Kooks tucked up so nicely for me - you may need to raise the fuel and brake lines if they're too close to the y-pipe. You can search on here for the directions but you unbolt a couple of plastic guides, turn them upside down, enlarge the new top guide area for the fuel line, and bolt them back in. Once again, I did this myself but it will be much easier with a friend helping to hold the lines while you're threading the bolt back in.

waterboy454

Great...thanks for the ideas. I'm hoping my son will help me out a bit with this "bonding moment"!! Did you replace the Motor mounts as well? I'm going to sprays all the bolts down with PB Blaster a couple of times 2-3 days before to help things break loose.

waterboy454

Are those your wheels on your post pic?? I'd love some of those in black for mine. Wanting to put some 18' on this summer.

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

those are ccws they are 3k for the set.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I take it you are talking to me since I don't see wheels in anyone else's avatar - yes, those are the ones on my Camaro. As already stated, they are CCW SP500, 18x10 up front, 18x11 out back. It was $2600 shipped for the wheels only back in the day - not sure what they run now.

metalmechanic

header install

GeorgeR@kooks

Here are our instructions for the F-Body. I hope this helps.





1998-2002 LS-1 Camaro/Firebird
Installation Instructions

Thank you for your purchase, we appreciate your business.

Do not attempt this installation if proper safety equipment isn’t available to you. Seek the assistance of a professional installer.
Kooks LS-1 headers install from under the vehicle, Raising and securing the vehicle with jack stands is a must if a lift is not available.
To install these headers you will need only the general assortment of hand tools. But you will also want to have on hand, the following; Four jack stands, one hydraulic jack, a gasket scraper, anti seize, a spray lube, [WD 40] also, surgical gloves, and safety glasses.
It’s a good idea to spray the WD40 to help loosen the connections and fasteners at this time. While the lube is doing its job, we can start the installation.


#1—Disconnect the battery using a 10mm wrench, then remove the dip stick and tube by removing the 15mm screw that holds the tube to the block.
#2—Remove the spark plug wires, and the spark plugs. You will find it much easier to remove the rear spark plugs on both sides, from underneath after you raise the vehicle. Remove two [2] 10mm bolts from the air tubes on the exhaust manifolds. Unclip the plastic clamps on the check valves, remove check valves wilt the air tubes.
#3—Raise the vehicle, and secure with jack stands. The vehicle will need to be raised 24 in. off the ground
#4—Unplug front and rear oxygen sensors, but remove only the rears at this time. Note the location of each sensor. They must be reinstalled in the same location. Remove the passenger side coil pack. Next remove the oil filter.



Kooks Custom Headers – 200 Candlewood Road – Bay Shore, NY 11706
www.kookscustomheaders.com
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#5—Remove the manifolds and the complete exhaust system. [If being reused, the cat back may be left in place.] If you are changing the complete exhaust system, remove the fasteners that hold the muffler assembly in place. [See step 10] With the old system on the ground, you can then remove the two front oxygen sensors
#6—With care, inspect and clean the exhaust port surfaces using a gasket scraper. These heads are aluminum. Proceed with caution.
#7—Coat the threats of the oxygen sensors with anti seize and install them into the Kooks headers, tighten them completely at this time. Slide the headers up and into position from under the vehicle. Note; the drivers side may seem not to want to go up and onto the motor, but if you have the vehicle high enough so that the header is completely vertical, you will find that there is a pocket where the header will go into place. A little twisting of the header inwards towards the cylinder head will allow the header to align with the exhaust ports. Attach the headers and gaskets with two of the 13mm header bolts from the installation kit, but do not tighten them.
#8--Reconnect the front oxygen sensors, (Sold separately)Part No. 109007.
#9—Install remaining header bolts, but do not tighten them.
#10—Install the Kooks ‘Y’ pipe and mid pipe using the hardware and clamps provided.
You can now tighten the complete assembly after checking that every thing is properly aligned. [Exhaust tips centered, and the “Y” pipe properly aligned in the tunnel.]
#11—Connect the rear oxygen sensor extension harnesses using the remaining two harnesses in your kit.
#12—Reinstall the dipstick and tube along with the spark plugs and wires. Double check all wiring, brake, and fuel systems for proper clearance, then lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery.

You have just installed the finest exhaust system you can buy, enjoy it.

If additional assistance is needed, please contact Kooks Custom Headers
Toll free at 866 586 KOOK or contact your dealer.


Kooks Custom Headers – 200 Candlewood Road – Bay Shore, NY 11706
www.kookscustomheaders.com
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rossina00

Get some sounds clips when you get the headers in im wanting to get the bb triflow exhaust also just would like to hear it

waterboy454

Wow--those are really nice.

waterboy454

George--thanks so much. Do you happen to know how much to tighten the header bolts (lb's)?? Don't want to strip anything out-

waterboy454

My BB's are great...I get a lot of comments!! They sound great on stock headers, but curious how that will change with the new headers??!! I like to hear it...but don't want it unrulely.

waterboy454

Those are sweet!! Will have to save up some more for those...may do a cam first.

waterboy454

George--what does a person do about the air injection tubes that are on my stock manifolds now? Are those completely removed because I don't see anywhere on my Kooks to re-attach them? The instructions don't mention them?

LS1-NAVY

iTrader: (1)

u have the race style with no emissions you can delete AIR off the comp and just remove the whole AIR system unless you need it to pass inspection or something