car is a mildly modded 99WS6. 100K miles.

when I ripped my transmission mount it was easy to test it I just used a pry bar at the mount just pryed up and disscovered a 1/2" tear.

I'm now suspioius of the motor mounts. worn motor mount can cause false knock correct?

?1.how do you know if they are completely worn out? the motor doe'snt shake.

?2.do they just flaten out over time or just hard driving?

?3.do the clam shell have to be dissaasembled to inspect for worn out stock rubber?

Thanks

 

Pop the hood and put the car in drive with your left foot on the brake, torque the motor(blip the throttle with your right foot) and see how much it moves from side to side. Put the car in reverse and do the same. If they're torn that badly the movement should be pretty noticeable.

If you can't see the engine from the drivers seat have someone sit in the car while you're looking the engine from the outside, not standing in front of the car though!

It will be difficult to see any visible damage since they're enclosed in the clam shell. Over time from the engine moving they'll eventually rip, usually one side more then the other

 

True...when i got my Z28 i did that and i noticed some movment so i swaped them...its pretty much noticeable...gd luck

 

yeah you would def notice when you hit the gas it would torque the motor and you would feel the lurch of the motor.

 

to actually inspect them yes you have to open up the clamshell. if you're getting banging from the exhaust/headers that's probably due to worn motor mounts. and if you're at 100k miles, i would say it's a good time to put in some new ones. poly or solid, whatever you prefer

 

how do you test them in a M6 and you have to unbolt the engine to do them right?

 

Best write up I have seen on swapping them out......

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-written.html

 

+1, any test for manual cars? Im guessing we can just put it in gear and rev the engine like the autos do it? How much movement is too much movement?

 

Basically the same for M6 cars. Just block the front wheels and slowly lift up on the clutch.

 

I will torque the motor and watch the motor movement thanks Grifter and all other responses.? how much motor movement is too much?
should I feel it shacght?
I've been studying up on this project DAM.

seams to me the major PITA is when both mounts are removed simiarl to the rear lower control arm upgrade (if you take both LCAs off the rear end will shift).

who will admit to just doing the driver side poly motor mounts? and passing on the pass. side any negatives to this? a cocked motor one side higher than the other? (can't understand that being inside the clamshell)

I mean most likely the driver side is causeing the false knock right?

also I've had my exhaust sys. inspected and have plenty of cleanace.
the rattling and hitting noise is a rare event happens maybe once a month or less in the driveway when starting it cold.


Thanks to all for the feed back

 

i'd change both at the same. time think about it, if there is a difference between the two mounts you will be tilting your trans to one side or the other causing added wear to your new trans mount

 

this and pull the parking brake all the way up... well they only sell the mounts in pairs so you might as well do both... i did mine 1 side at a time and it was actually fairly easy compared to how some people make it seem... i did them when i installed longtubes so having your headers out of the way would definitely make it easier

 

Why not just get someone to power brake the car a little while you look under the hood so you can visually see if the mounts are actually lifting up.

 

That is basically what I suggested to do; left foot on the brake while the right foot works the throttle.

 

oooooo....kkkkkkkkk