This would be true but not in the case of my car, ill take pics in a min

 

ok bud

 

^ How long did it take you to do your engine mounts?? I've heard horror stories from those.. Almost be easier to take the LT's out to do em?

 

Those hot air intakes are only good for dyno use with the hood open or ram air. Other then that its junk. Just get a good lid! My lid has been on for 4 years with no problems with smooth bellow and no maff! Sealed good and never popped open I have seen many people pick up a tenth with a lid and free ram air mod over that setup at the track.

 

^ The SLP lid was proven to be the better one (in that size).. GMHTP did an article on it a while ago.. I've had my lid on mine for, god, 6 yrs now.. Never popped off either.. but the crappy seal that came with it didn't last long. It just has to fit in a certain way in order for it to seal right.. Mine fits tight, but not too sure about the back.

 

yeah my mounts were changed out when i put in my LT's 60K ago

 

That K&N looks really good, but almost $400!

 

FIPK is niice in the dyno when the hood is open, when u close the hood its completly different thing.

 

yup with the hood close it gets all the 190+deg heat and kills power! Even with a SS or WS6 its still warmer air then lid with free mod

Example My friend had the FIPK intake on his Z28. It was 85 deg out side and with HP tuners hooked up the air intake temp sensor was reading 190deg going down the road and higher at red lights. We put a lid with k&n and free mod and with it 85 degs the air intake temp sensor was reading 85deg . His car was a auto car and would run 12.1 all night long and had a best of a 12.0 and only ran that one time. With the lid he got a 11.0 and picked up almost 2mph. Everyone knows the cooler air = more HP Now if you have SS hood or Ram air hood it wont be as bad but still gets hot air from under the hood.

I have seen people that flat out didnt like lids so they ran that FIPK and cut a smooth hole under the filter on the cover to get some of the cooler air like the free ram air mod.

 

Saw that article in GMHTP too. The SLP lid performed about the best with the best fitment.

 

ive seen a few slp lids have a problem with one or both of the latch popping open. Why i sold mine

 

sounds like you just need to go FI and screw the ram air garbage.

 

on one of my setups I bought a cone shaped filter from autozone.. I dont remember what vehicle it was for... but it had a 3.5" opening...I ended up putting it straight to my Throttle body(with no MAF)....I only had to shave the plastic cowl on the radiator a smidge in the center
worked great...looked great...

 

That's the worst setup you can do throwing a filter on the TB! Put it even closer yo the heat The only way any open filter is good under the hood is if it has a shield around it blocking the heat from the motor!

Somthing like this for trans am

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ca830cc79184ca

For camaro

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ca830cc79184ca

 

I second this. Have this setup on my camaro and works good. Only problem ive seen is where the air comes from with an SS hood. The outlets sit a little lower than the base of the lid. Thinking of coming up with something to direct the air straight to the filter.

 

yeah Ive seen people cut the bottoms out for the free ram air mod. Some even used the SLP cold air kit or fast toys under it

fast toys


SLP


you get mor air from this then a SS hood

 

I never had a problem with heat on my setup...
once you start moving its all cold air..
my IAT read ambient air temps within 1/2 second of starting to move.
its all about how you get the air in and out of you engine bay

 

I wish I could find way to make a lid type setup work for my car....

When you do a ram air mod you get cold air with a straight shot into the engine, my cone filter increases my IAT temps by a minimum of 15* on the highway and they get well over 100* (with 30* outside air temps) at low speeds

 

move the iat to the front....closer to the bumper

 

why would you want it up front...
that moves it away from the point of combustion...
you want the IAT as close to the combustion point as possible without being effected by the combustion heat itself...

example...
at the front of your car...on a cold day... IAT see's 30*
but the air that goes into your intake is at 55* because of the heat of the engine bay...
now you have inaccurate fueling because of bad IAT placement

if you have it just past the Throttle body...
that 55* air is going to be seen by the IAT and your fueling will be corrected properly.(assuming you have the tune dialed in correctly)