A little late post, but here is my Pro flo setup on my car. It is not exactly 100% finished product yet though. Still need to finalize the vacuum lines and the intake duct.

 

Trips I'm loving the intake same one I'm looking to get where did you get it at

 

Hey man you tasted it yet?

 

any updates

 

Same 408 motor, different vehicles. Both done on same dyno, same tuner (Kirk from before he left Vector).

Not exactly back to back dyno, but you can compare the overall curves. Changes from motor in Camaro to truck:
LS6 Intake > Edelbrock Pro Flo Xt
F-Body 1 7/8 Kooks headers > Truck 1 7/8 ARH Headers
F-Body K&N FIPK Intake > 4" Aluminum Intake with K&N Filter, both had 85mm MAF
F-Body M6 trans > Truck 4L60E with 3600rpm stall
Both true dual 3" exhaust
Both 4.10 gears
Truck was running 20" wheels and a 4WD trasnsfer case locked into 2WD, it was a VERY heavy drivetrain (over 90lb per wheel) compared to the Camaro.

 

I like How it looks under there!! But i drive my car everyday weather raining or sunshine i do not like the idea of rain dumping on the engine.

 

Thanks teesee, you may have just sold me an intake lol.

 

What your saing is the pass with more HP you used the LS6 intake

 

I think what is being said is that for a STREET car, the LS6 intake would be better because it will provide more USABLE power through the curve. Don't look at peak numbers as much as you look at what it does through the curve.

Have a motor that turns high RPM's? Lots of N2O? Boost? Then buy this intake.

Have a bolt on LS1 or LS2? Mild heads and cam? A small shot of N2O? Then buy a FAST setup or Vic Junior with a 4150 TB.

 

I love discussions like this.

I owned a 96 inpala ss that ran 12.6 at 108 with the stock iron heads, a mild Crane 227 cam (214/224 on a 112 lsa), and a 4000 stall converter, at a 4200 lb race weight. It cut a 1.65 60 ft and we timed it at 4.8 seconds 0-60 with a dash hawk. The stock LT1 intake manifold had 3 inch intake runners, and I was running shorty headers as well, so there was absolutely zero intake pulse tuning.

I just bought my midlife crisis car, a 2000 convertible vette. Torch red <LOL>. It's slower than the impala.

The point is, there are just too many variables to definitively say which style of intake is best. The old TPI intake that the LT1 intake replaced, made HUGE torque in the midrange, and yet the LT1 drove around fine even on a 1200 stall stock converter, and on the vette made 60 more horsepower and cut well over a second off the quarter mile over the TPI motor, even in the same identical car (the C4 vette). Even Lingenfelter's souped up TPI intake, with 20-some-odd inch intake runners, couldn't beat the LT1 intake on similar cars (we know, we raced 'em).

Anyway, I guess what I'm saying is that giving up some midrange for top end is a worthwhile tradeoff, even for a daily driver. If you tune the computer correctly, even 4 speed auto cars will drop two gears instead of one when you punch it, so the loss of midrange really isn't going to be that noticeable. And with the new 6 speed autos, it's not going to matter at all.

And it's not like in the old days where the fuel-air mixture is dependent on the intake pulse strength, and you had to run a small carb to offset the weak intake pulse of a single plane manifold. The only downside to running a big throttle body on a fuel injected car is you have to be careful about giving the car too much throttle when you are trying to go slow in stop and go traffic... which you don't even have to worry about so much these days because everything is drive by wire anyway.

So my take is go for the intake that will make the most horsepower at the best rpm for your cam and heads, and don't worry about the midrange. You're just not going to use the midrange when you punch it these days. What with many-speed transmissions and lockup converters, it's just not that important in a sports car. Even a daily driver sports car.