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cheapest way to LT's and TD's???

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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Default cheapest way to LT's and TD's???

hey guys i finally have some disposable income and i would like to start modding my car. im stock other than a shift kit in my rebuilt tranny. still stock lid. i would love for my first mod to be long tube headers and true dual exhaust just in time for summer

i am getting so sick of the flowmaster 40 series on there now. i would love to do long tube headers and true duals.

what combo do you guys think would be the cheapest/best sounding/loudest way to go with this?

i really dont care which long tubes i go with. as far as true dual setup i would love any 2.5" or 3" with x or h pipe it doesnt really matter. oh and **** cats i live in kansas. as far as muffler goes, i would love a bullet style or maybe a chambered style. i would like it to be LOUD!!!

i was planning on buying both the headers and true duals online from here in the parts classifieds section.

i know that the ebay headers are extremely cheap and good quality, so i have thought about that route. but unfortunately i dont think that there are any td setups that mate up to these headers. is that ebay header company coming out with true duals pretty soon? that would be awesome because im sure that would be cheap too

just let me know what your suggestions are. thanks
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 10:28 PM
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buy a welder, start melting ****, post results.

you'll get it sooner or later
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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yeah^ your gona have to start fabin to get there cheap!
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 10:42 PM
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but if not...maybe pacesetter's and TSP TD's...but thats just a wild shot in the dark.
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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maybe cheapest off the shelf but byfar not the CHEAPEST to be had
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 11:37 PM
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just search your local craiglist or here
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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by the way good luck finding a deal
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 03:16 AM
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buy some used uncoated headers if you dont car about looks i paid 100-150 for mine then for 200 i could have had an exaust shop wed up some 3" pipe but that was probally not the cheapest shop either

pm me if you want them im about to remove them for some other headers i have
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 04:27 AM
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Used LTs 200-300$
o2 extensions (new)50? Been a while
TSP Xpipe, used or new whichever you can find check texas speed.com to find out price
FM 1 chamber knock offs 30/muffler
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 04:33 AM
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you dont need to buy o2 ext just extend the wires
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by DCC!!
you dont need to buy o2 ext just extend the wires
Let me know how that works for you.

That is a cheap "rigged" way of doing it.

IMO vette o2s are the only way to go. I have only seen problem after problem with extensions. I only know 1 person that had a problem with a vette o2 and it was because the header burnt it (installer error).
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
Let me know how that works for you.

That is a cheap "rigged" way of doing it.

IMO vette o2s are the only way to go. I have only seen problem after problem with extensions. I only know 1 person that had a problem with a vette o2 and it was because the header burnt it (installer error).
Actually, the way to go is to repin the PCM. Takes 5-10 minutes, move the wires from the rear O2's on the PCM to the slots for the front O2's. Then you can use the rear O2 sensor connectors for the fronts, which conveniently are right where the O2's screw into the longtubes.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by black00ssFL
Actually, the way to go is to repin the PCM. Takes 5-10 minutes, move the wires from the rear O2's on the PCM to the slots for the front O2's. Then you can use the rear O2 sensor connectors for the fronts, which conveniently are right where the O2's screw into the longtubes.
That's a cool idea, but way over the skill-level of the average Joe on this and most other sites.

I'd say Pacesetter's and our Rumbler true duals would be the way to go!
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
Let me know how that works for you.

That is a cheap "rigged" way of doing it.

IMO vette o2s are the only way to go. I have only seen problem after problem with extensions. I only know 1 person that had a problem with a vette o2 and it was because the header burnt it (installer error).
how is wiring skills riging now? if you do it the right way(granted most people will not) it will look and function just like factory
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
That's a cool idea, but way over the skill-level of the average Joe on this and most other sites.

I'd say Pacesetter's and our Rumbler true duals would be the way to go!
I disagree. To unbolt the top of the PCM, look at a diagram, unpin 4 wires, and switch them with 4 other wires is no more difficult than making your own extensions.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 02:37 PM
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With vette o2s you unplug your factor ones and plug them in. No extensions, no cutting, no stripping, no wiring.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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Well, considering he wants to do this as cheap as possible, vette O2's are not the way to go. He'll be paying about $120 (at least over $100) for those, repinning the PCM is free. I'll spend an extra 10 minutes to save $100 and it won't be "rigged" by using extensions. In HIS circumstances, repinning is the way to go.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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hey guys thanks for the responses. yeah i have never welded in my life. i would love to learn but my h.s. doesnt offer that class and idk where else to learn. maybe i can get someone to help me out. i still dont know what im going to do as far as the o2 sensors... but i already have o2 sims for the rear o2's because my cats are clogged or bad or whatever.


smok'nz you have a pm
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DCC!!
how is wiring skills riging now? if you do it the right way(granted most people will not) it will look and function just like factory
regardless of how well its done, a few crimp connectors is not going to last very long (as long as a set of extentions or any other method) under the car. there is a reason GM used weather pack connectors on everything.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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so does that meen any wiring that isnt factory and/or plug n play "rigged"

and you dont have to splice the wires in there you can start from the weatherpack with new wires
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