ported throttle body?
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[QUOTE=madmike9396;13301858]whats a bump stop mod ?[/QUOTE
If you notice on your throtltle body where spring rest on the bump stop .. people grind that down to where the plate inside your throttle body gets more flat. easy mod
If you notice on your throtltle body where spring rest on the bump stop .. people grind that down to where the plate inside your throttle body gets more flat. easy mod
Back when I was a bolt on car, I did LS6 intake swap and ported my tb at the same time. Did the bump stop mod, knife edged the blade, cut the shaft, etc. By far, that combo was the best bolt on mod I had ever done. Better than the Lt's and ory by far.
^^^^ A fast 92, 92mm TB and bigger maff, with tune will cost you over $1500. I only gained 9whp over my stock LS6 intake, newera ported TB, and stock maff with screen. It was working preatty damn well for $75 cost into that setup.
A god port job, like the one I got from New Era Performance. The "bump stop mod" maybe not done 90* would be better? Most people think that would be best. Testing things will show you what makes more power. With not hurting the TPS stuff, or setting a SES light. Or messing with the tune or other tables in the PCM.
Dose the $44 Ebay port job do this? I bet not.
A god port job, like the one I got from New Era Performance. The "bump stop mod" maybe not done 90* would be better? Most people think that would be best. Testing things will show you what makes more power. With not hurting the TPS stuff, or setting a SES light. Or messing with the tune or other tables in the PCM.
Dose the $44 Ebay port job do this? I bet not.
Last edited by studderin; May 9, 2010 at 05:22 PM.
I paid around $120 for a ported thottle body on ebay, it was new with core charge of $50 but im keeping the stock one.
They cut the bump stop to where the blade is 90 and half shafted it for better air flow, got a polished spring over painted. Its a pretty nice peice for the money really. The car runs better with that and the lid, bellow and maf sensor.
They cut the bump stop to where the blade is 90 and half shafted it for better air flow, got a polished spring over painted. Its a pretty nice peice for the money really. The car runs better with that and the lid, bellow and maf sensor.
I followed a howto guide IIRC it was from Bo White but this is another howto guide it came up when I did a SEARCH.
http://www.bowlingss.com/LS1_How_To.htm
http://www.bowlingss.com/LS1_How_To.htm
There are a few write ups out there. I spent the most time smoothing out the hump radius, knife edging the tb, and polishing. Cut the shaft and trimmed the bolts. Read the write ups and take your time. The only thing I did not do was use filler to cover/smooth the IAC opening