Powerbond ud pulley problem HELP!!!
LS1's do not have a keyway on the crank standard, the damper pulley is an interferance fit. Powerbond machine a keyway slot into their dampers to allow for people who want to machine a matching slot into their cranks and run a key for more positive location. This is usually only done for supercharger installations and the crank needs to be removed. Try not to use the old bolt to pull it on as as it is not quite long enough to engage enough threads to pull the damper on and you may damage the threads in the end of the crank. I use an M16x2.0x120mm long bolt and use a washer stack to pull the damper on most of the way. Make sure you lube the crank snout, the threads and washers and you will need to start with only a few washers and gradually keep removing the bolt and adding a couple more at a time as you pull it on. Once it's on as far as you think it can go put the original bolt in and torque to 240ft/lbs, this is quite difficult, then remove the bolt and measure how far the crank is recessed from the damper. It should be recessed no more than approx 0.175thou. If it is a greater number it needs to be pulled on further. Once you have acheived this distance. Then use a new bolt ( this is a must as the factory bolts are a 'torque to yield' design which means they stretch ) with a drop of locktite on the threads and torque to 37ft/lbs and then keep tightening a further 140 degrees of rotation. A better alternative is to use the ARP damper bolt 234-2503 which does not stretch and can be reused, this needs to be torqued to approx 240 ft/lbs.
So then the ARP damper bolt is just torqued to 240 ft/lb and thats it?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Southport NC
LS1's do not have a keyway on the crank standard, the damper pulley is an interferance fit. Powerbond machine a keyway slot into their dampers to allow for people who want to machine a matching slot into their cranks and run a key for more positive location. This is usually only done for supercharger installations and the crank needs to be removed. Try not to use the old bolt to pull it on as as it is not quite long enough to engage enough threads to pull the damper on and you may damage the threads in the end of the crank. I use an M16x2.0x120mm long bolt and use a washer stack to pull the damper on most of the way. Make sure you lube the crank snout, the threads and washers and you will need to start with only a few washers and gradually keep removing the bolt and adding a couple more at a time as you pull it on. Once it's on as far as you think it can go put the original bolt in and torque to 240ft/lbs, this is quite difficult, then remove the bolt and measure how far the crank is recessed from the damper. It should be recessed no more than approx 0.175thou. If it is a greater number it needs to be pulled on further. Once you have acheived this distance. Then use a new bolt ( this is a must as the factory bolts are a 'torque to yield' design which means they stretch ) with a drop of locktite on the threads and torque to 37ft/lbs and then keep tightening a further 140 degrees of rotation. A better alternative is to use the ARP damper bolt 234-2503 which does not stretch and can be reused, this needs to be torqued to approx 240 ft/lbs.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Perth, Australia
Q1 So then the ARP damper bolt is just torqued to 240 ft/lb and thats it?
A1 Yes it took a bit of searching to find that spec though I found a few different scraps of info suggesting from 235-260ft/lbs. 240ft/lbs with a drop of loctite is adequate.
Q2 what should I use to lubricate everything?
A2 Engine oil is fine.
Q3 How do u keep the crank from turning when ur tightening the new pulley on?
A3 As per 01ssreda4 Kent Moore flywheel holding tool is the best. If this is not available you can remove the stater motor and brace a large flat blade screwdriver in the ring gear teeth of the flexplate/flywheel and brace it against the block. This is then a 2 person job and not real easy. A friend of mine made his own tool out of 1/4" flat steel which bolted up to both the stater motor bolt holes. The section that meshed with the ring geargear was filed down to suit.
A1 Yes it took a bit of searching to find that spec though I found a few different scraps of info suggesting from 235-260ft/lbs. 240ft/lbs with a drop of loctite is adequate.
Q2 what should I use to lubricate everything?
A2 Engine oil is fine.
Q3 How do u keep the crank from turning when ur tightening the new pulley on?
A3 As per 01ssreda4 Kent Moore flywheel holding tool is the best. If this is not available you can remove the stater motor and brace a large flat blade screwdriver in the ring gear teeth of the flexplate/flywheel and brace it against the block. This is then a 2 person job and not real easy. A friend of mine made his own tool out of 1/4" flat steel which bolted up to both the stater motor bolt holes. The section that meshed with the ring geargear was filed down to suit.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Southport NC
thanks, my pulley is on now but not that good couldn't figure out how to keep the crank from turning but atleast I can drive my car now, not ready to step on it yet cause I want to make sure the pulley is really on there before I do that. Even driving normal I can feel a difference in response
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: stony creek va
guess its too late now that you got your pulley on,but some silicone in the keyway slot will keep oil from seeping past the bolt.it may or may not seep out past the wide flange of the bolt.you can keep an eye on it.
