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the instructions say when you get your old pulley off inspect the crankshaft and keyway for damage. When I got my stock pulley off there was no keyway on my crankshaft and no keyway hole on the stock pulley! My powerbond has the little keyway hole, the mechanic helping me with the install said he didn't want to try to put it on cause it might slip and mess up my crankshaft or something. I ordered it over the phone from Scoggin Dickey. Is this the wrong pulley or will it still work?
Not quite sure about any keyhole...but ive done a few of them and i just slide the new pulley on and torque it down with the old bolt. Then install the new bolt and torque as directed.
have you installed any powerbond pulleys? By keyway I mean a little tiny notch taken out of the hole in the pulley where the crankshaft slides in, and the instructions are saying my crankshaft should have a little raised up notch to fit in the hole on the pulley, I dont know how to explain it I need to take a picture
LS1's do not have a keyway on the crank standard, the damper pulley is an interferance fit. Powerbond machine a keyway slot into their dampers to allow for people who want to machine a matching slot into their cranks and run a key for more positive location. This is usually only done for supercharger installations and the crank needs to be removed. Try not to use the old bolt to pull it on as as it is not quite long enough to engage enough threads to pull the damper on and you may damage the threads in the end of the crank. I use an M16x2.0x120mm long bolt and use a washer stack to pull the damper on most of the way. Make sure you lube the crank snout, the threads and washers and you will need to start with only a few washers and gradually keep removing the bolt and adding a couple more at a time as you pull it on. Once it's on as far as you think it can go put the original bolt in and torque to 240ft/lbs, this is quite difficult, then remove the bolt and measure how far the crank is recessed from the damper. It should be recessed no more than approx 0.175thou. If it is a greater number it needs to be pulled on further. Once you have acheived this distance. Then use a new bolt ( this is a must as the factory bolts are a 'torque to yield' design which means they stretch ) with a drop of locktite on the threads and torque to 37ft/lbs and then keep tightening a further 140 degrees of rotation. A better alternative is to use the ARP damper bolt 234-2503 which does not stretch and can be reused, this needs to be torqued to approx 240 ft/lbs.
I gotta say I'm a little disappointed in how heavy this damn thing is, its noticeably heavier than the stock pulley. Scoogin dickey is awesome though! I ordered this Monday afternoon and got it yesterday afternoon and I'm in NC
Mine definitely is and doesn't look like the picture its black and doesn't have the little holes in the side, looks like the slp picture much better looking than stock
Was there a noticeable difference after u put it on? If I had known it was this heavy I would've went with the asp or some other brand. I mean if its purpose is to put less strain on the crank why would they make it heavy as ****? lol
Was there a noticeable difference after u put it on? If I had known it was this heavy I would've went with the asp or some other brand. I mean if its purpose is to put less strain on the crank why would they make it heavy as ****? lol
I have an old ASP pulley and it was significantly lighter than the stock one. I ordered another pulley a few years ago and it a was a lot heavier than the old ASP. The newer pulley has a SFI cert, where as the old ASP does not, so that maybe where the extra weight comes in. Is the Powerbond SFI certed?
Was there a noticeable difference after u put it on? If I had known it was this heavy I would've went with the asp or some other brand. I mean if its purpose is to put less strain on the crank why would they make it heavy as ****? lol
Thats not its purpose, It's purpose is to spin the accs slower, whether its heavier or not doesn't really mean ****. You will notice that revs rise and drop quicker and thats bc of the decreased spinning of the accs.
Originally Posted by RedRocketZ28
I think there is a little difference. Seems to rev a little quicker but could be in my head though. Track times will tell all.
Yeah if you do the mod the same day, same weather, wind, temp and control every other aspect of everything Otherwise what you are saying is useless.
Yeah if you do the mod the same day, same weather, wind, temp and control every other aspect of everything Otherwise what you are saying is useless.
Shocking you would be a douche about it. I forget people don't add mods to improve their times. If the weather is similar to what it was last summer when I ran (and yes I know what the DA and other relevant info was), I think I will know if I gained anything or not.
Shocking you would be a douche about it. I forget people don't add mods to improve their times. If the weather is similar to what it was last summer when I ran (and yes I know what the DA and other relevant info was), I think I will know if I gained anything or not.
Doesnt surprise me you would think that a year later all varibles are still being control by you.
Doesnt surprise me you would think that a year later all varibles are still being control by you.
You got that from my post how? Only variable I can control is how I drive the car. If the weather and DA is similar then I know what my car should run. Take your smartass bullshit comments elsewhere. Because you have almost 8000 posts does not make you an expert on anything. You are the biggest D-Bag on this forum and half your posts are worthless.
OP, let us know if you notice anything different after the pulley install.
You got that from my post how? Only variable I can control is how I drive the car. If the weather and DA is similar then I know what my car should run. Take your smartass bullshit comments elsewhere. Because you have almost 8000 posts does not make you an expert on anything. You are the biggest D-Bag on this forum and half your posts are worthless.
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