First off let me start by saying I did search before hand and couldn't find much.

I installed a P&P stock LS1 throttle body last night and ended up having to swap in my stock throttle body blade due to having the ported one having a larger drilled air hole in it. Anyway, I used my angle grinder and polished the face up to a similar level of the P&P one I installed earlier. Everything went together fine, and my idle level was restored again.

This morning when I drove it to work, I noticed the throttle seemed "sticky" the first 1/2" or so when I depressed the gas pedal. I assume this is the blade sticking or rubbing a bit inside the throttle body?

I thought about pulling the blade back off and just polishing the edge of the blade the tiniest bit and reassembling to see if it fixes it, but before I did I wanted to check here and get some input first.

Thanks!

 

Mine does the same exact thing. I haven't taken it back off to check it out but I'm assuming that's the problem. It seems like it's getting "hung up" on the rim of the TB.

 

After I ported mine it seemed as if it was a little "sticky" just when I would open it. Mainly when to let it slam shut.
It went away after a few days use and all is well now.

 

when the shaft is split, the blade actually has to be realigned to work properly. where the blade used to be able to kinda "float" for centering between the front and back shaft, it now will rely on proper positioning of the blade in a different manner. the replacement blade may need some tweaking to make it work properly. making adjustments via the blade edge is not the way to fix it in my opinion.

with all that said and the fact that you now have a balde that is of no use to anyone on your old t/b (due to the enlarged air hole), you may want to contact the seller to address this issue. shoot me a pm if he cant take care of it and i will fix it properly free of charge.

 

Thanks for the input. I get what you're saying about positioning the blade, it fit in there so tightly I just assumed that where it landed would be the right fit, but I should probably loosen the screws and try aligning it better. Polishing the edges would be treating a symptom and not the problem.

 

mine did the same thing... just took a little bit for her to break in. I have never had a problem since

 

I bought an ls6 intake for my '00 T/A and had it and my throttle body ported and polished (TB of course) and when they were finally ready, I brought them back home and installed: QTP long tubes, the ported ls6 intake and the P and P throttle body, and also deleted the emissions crap.(AIR/EGR) Any way, by the time the car was up and running, I noticed the throttle was sticking a little... like the throttle would hang up a little before settling back down to normal(and was even a little high for an M6. apprx 900 RPM) I figured I had broken something or that it could have been that the throttle blade was sticking or that it was the intake sucking in more air... So I tried everything i could think of to avoid taking the intake back off... checked seals, put the emissions crap back on, EVERYTHING. Then I started talking to people and pretty much got the same response... " you got a bad ported throttle body"

replaced the ported one with the stock and it fixed the problem.

couple of months later I was talking with a guy about it and he told me the intake wouldn't throw off the tune but the ported throttle bodies screw the idle up, "all I have to do is tune the car to the throttle body." I though he was just talking crap so I would pay him 300 bucks for a tune.. I told him $280 and I would give him an extra $30 if it worked...
And then.. Wala the car idled correctly with no sticking throttle. He told me that some port jobs will allow the computer to readjust to the size and others wont. Mine had been completely rebuilt and the big rectangular holes had been filled in with epoxy and two tubes had been placed for idle.

Sorry for the novel^^^ but i'm just sharing my experience with the annoying *** throttle hang that happens with ported throttle bodies. Quick tune should fix it right up

 

Take the blade and some fine grit sand paper and debur the edges of the blade. Take the stock screws and put a #6 washer under them and reassemble the TB and check for a tiny crack of light all the way around the blade before tightening the blade screws. Sometimes the burs on the blade will hang in the housing and sometimes when you use the factory screws without washers the taper on the screws push the blade one direction up against the housing. This is why all of the ones I ported back in the day had washers under the factory screws when I reused them.