stngh8r

Thank you for taking the time to do this.

ENASNI TILLER

A few guys removed the pedestal with the motor mount. Wouldn't that be easier then removing the AC and the Alternator? I'm working on installing my new headers and poly mounts this week.

CORYSTA

iTrader: (2)

Hey man thanks for this doing this write up. I used it doing a Kooks LT headers (cats and emissions delete) mod and added billet solid motor mounts. I still have to button a few things up, but it has been incredibly helpful.

This may have already been mention somewhere in the last 7 pages between the first and this one, but I found a great way to get that pesky 2nd motor mount long bolt in.

Loosen the K member on the side you're working on. Loosen the 3 bolts holding it in. Give yourself maybe 1" to play with. Pry the k member down from the frame while you pry against the motor mount with your pry bar between the mount to the engine and the mount to the k member. This worked so well it pissed me off that I didn't do it first. (Well pissed me off after I finished my happy dance after I got that bolt in place.

I don't know how long I fought with this. I tried loosening the mount on the k member with the 2nd side and snapped a rusted bolt in k member (worked great on the 1st side). Ended up having to completely remove the k member to fix that. :///

stngh8r

Thanks to this thread, I just swapped my motor mounts. Headers will be on soon.

mad_22_07

iTrader: (8)

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CoolAid

11 hours by myself for the poly MMs. Trans and exhaust out, jackstands (no lift), pedestal and clam total removal method. Had no trouble using Energy Suspension as far as clam install goes.

One thing I've seen a few posts of is people leaving them overnight half installed and in the morning it was easier. This is what happened to me. After reading those posts I came out before bed and droped the engine down on them to "wear in" or loosen up the poly. Probably helped.

I did the enitre assembly out method. Did not pull alt or AC. Removed and installed with the 18mm through bolt installed. After the driver was in tight, I had the pass installed engine side and had about a 1 inch varience between pedestal and K holes. Yikes. Ironically how i got them in was no jack. Went to back of engine and saw it yawing heavy to driver. I just grabbed the engine and twisted it with muscle force and it slid over almost perfectly over the K holes. Used a small screwdriver in one of the holes and some torque with one hand while I threaded the three other pedestal holes.

Feel like I could fight a bear now after that ****. Major props to those that do this with exhaust and trans in without a lift.

paradigmGT

How tight are you guys tightening the exhaust manifold bolts?

I did this install last august and now I am noticing an exhaust leak on the driver side manifold. I went and tightened all the bolts but I am hoping they are not over-tight.

rybern

iTrader: (5)

Wow, I greatly appreciate this writeup. I found this when I Googled for info about headers on a 2000 Camaro. It really helped me know what to expect. Thanks again.

vlad1995

iTrader: (1)

Im doing this right now and one of the bolts for the motoe mount on the passanger side keeps going in crooked, i cant get it to go in straight no matter what i do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

T2TA

Are there any arguments against solid mounts - I don't mind paying bit more. Mods are listed below (exhaust being LT headers, ORY and magnaflow).

Or what about solid tubular steel like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tubular-LSx-...9TwW~O&vxp=mtr.

As I'm ordering all now - looking for best and/or easiest.

Thanks.

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

Anything solid is going to affect ride quality in so far as transferred noise and vibration from the engine to the frame. Its the price you pay for stiffness. Its entirely subjective however as to just how bad it is to you and is dependent on the condition of your drive train just how bad that vibration and noise actually is.

T2TA

Makes sense. Appreciate it!

ianp2009

this write up was a huge help thank you

TexomaMan_X2

Awesome thank you for doing this!!! I just ordered kooks lt and their true dual exhaust, should be in about 3 weeks from now. I wasn't sure how to change the motor mounts out but this explains everything with pictures! Awesome 4 thumbs!

SumDumKid

iTrader: (10)

I read this forum before installing my headers like... maybe 6 months ago. I read through it a couple of times before installing, and then followed along while doing the install. This write up is fantastic!
I thought one part was funny though. When you say you need a big *** pry bar and a 800# gorilla to get the 2nd motor mount bolt in. I installed the drivers side bolts first, then installed the passenger side bolt by myself using a 24" Harbor Freight pry bar in one hand and the motor mount bolt in the other.

rybern

iTrader: (5)

I totally agree SumDumKid. I've done quit a few automotive thing in my life, but I had not worked on a late model Fbody and this thread was a HUGE help to me.

A trick for getting the 2nd motor mount bolt in was to loosen the four bolts on the 2nd motor mount which allow the mount to move a little bit independently from the block. I know this is late for you and it sounds like yours went pretty well, but I thought I would post this for others.

ksirb

This has been great for me so far. I am just about to pull the MMs. I was wondering how you guys torqued the header bolts. I am really worried about accidentally stripping them. I just can't see how you could get the torque wrench in their to get the last bolts on the passenger side.

SumDumKid

iTrader: (10)

Gutentite m8. Just make sure, if you can, to use a 6 point socket and start every bolt by hand before tightening. I had a bigger problem with stripping the head of the bolt or it trying to cross thread in.
Torque as many as you can. You might be able to get the last 2 bolts from under the car, but if you can't, just give em a good snug. 18ft lbs. Good luck and have fun!

rybern

iTrader: (5)

I can confirm this. /\ /\

Torque the bolts you can and use what you can to get the others. You can get a "feel" of the torque with a regular ratchet on the bolts that you torqued and apply that feel on the bolts that you can't get to with the torque wrench. Clear as mud, eh?

ksirb

Well the BBK long tubes went on with no problem at all (not exactly the same for the motor mounts). Those things were designed and built extremely well. I'd post a video of the sound, but my phones microphone is **** and its winter here in MN.

Thanks for all the help. I'm not sure how I'd have done it without this guide!