The fix for my endless alternator failure's
Unfortunately I wont be able to tell you, I made a bunch of changes at the same time I did the alternator. I took the car down for a week and replaced the fuel pump, swapped torque converters from a basically 2500 stall (it was a yank PY3400, made for 800+HP cars so I couldn't stall it up) to a SS3800 which stalls much higher, and I also changed the tune. So I will have to leave it to one of these other guys.
I have put some mileage on it but I haven't been driving the car in the same exact situations the last couple weeks that I normally do, I had to take a long trip and had a loaner lexus last week so im halfway through a tank of gas that consists of normal driving, so once its on E this tank I will have something to compare too.
Guys I highly recommend this "mod" it is working phenomenal for me, now I just need to run a second wire along the wire from the alternator to the battery to help carry the increased amperage. The stock wire was not installed with the intention to be mated up with a 145 amp alternator.
I like your thinking, just go ahead and buy the whole damn 6.0 instead of a piece at a time

Although I dont know if the 105 amp from the trucks works, I used the 145 amp and it does, but I would imagine the 105 probably mounts all the same. But would be less benefit because the F body is a 105 too.
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I have heard of that too, how many RPM's you turn? My limiter is set at 6700, so far this truck one is holding it just fine. If you think RPM's are killing it, which if you turn well over 7000 its a possibility, they make pulleys to slow down the alternator for pretty cheap. I saw them at either Texas Speed or Thunder Racing's website.
Also, I have a huge red top optima battery that's been in the car since all the alternators have been replaced. It tested good but maybe not under a load?
I had my car tuned a few months ago and it had no problems with reading the computer. I also have no other issues with the car like misfiring, codes, or running bad. It just keeps blowing alternators and the entire exciter wire with plug was already replaced.
I had my car tuned a few months ago and it had no problems with reading the computer. I also have no other issues with the car like misfiring, codes, or running bad. It just keeps blowing alternators and the entire exciter wire with plug was already replaced.
Ask her this, if its bad wiring, why does a new alternator fix the issue every time? I was faced with this garbage when I took my alternator back to get a refund, they would only offer me a replacement part, I told them I have replaced too many of their replacement parts already and I have a 40 dollar alternator on the car right now that works perfect and their 249 dollar alternator wont work right for 30 minutes.
The hotter it got the lower the voltage went, so it worked, cold. So what does the genious at NAPA do, sticks it on the machine and says "its good" "i cant give your money back" I thoroughly explained to him previously that it worked fine cold but not hot, and still that was the response I got.
Anyway, back to the wiring discussion. The wiring harness has nothing to do with the alternator failure, the exciter wire simply activates alternator, thats it. It either turns the alternator on, or it does not. If it does not then the alternator wont charge, but it does not make it fail.
I dont know if you work on your own car or not, if you don't ill help you out if you need it. I can get another one of these truck alternators and you can come up here and we'll put it on. I know its a about a 3 hour drive but if you need the help I dont mind.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Jun 9, 2010 at 09:09 PM.
. I got the car back today and checked out the wiring harness at the pcm. There was a little corrosion in the top left bank (when looking at the car) so I took it all apart, cleaned all the connections, dielectric, and started right back up with again no issues. None of the wires were frayed or burned out. Anyways, I got the truck alternator coming today from one of my salvage yards and see if it solves the problem.Also, I did ask about the refund after they "fixed" the wiring harness and it was absolutely not, "this is just the next troubleshooting"
. I got the car back today and checked out the wiring harness at the pcm. There was a little corrosion in the top left bank (when looking at the car) so I took it all apart, cleaned all the connections, dielectric, and started right back up with again no issues. None of the wires were frayed or burned out. Anyways, I got the truck alternator coming today from one of my salvage yards and see if it solves the problem.Also, I did ask about the refund after they "fixed" the wiring harness and it was absolutely not, "this is just the next troubleshooting"
Cool dude, just to make sure, did you get the 4 wire, 145 amp alternator from a 99-03? It has to be the 4 wire, I may have accidentally left that out earlier but I do not think the 99-03 had the 2 wire anyway so it may be a non issue.
Please let us know how this works out for you.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Jun 12, 2010 at 01:33 PM.
All the fuses in the fuse box under the hood had black hot spots on them but none were broken. I took the safe (expensive) out and just replaced everything in there. I don't know what would cause that?








