wph351

iTrader: (3)

Guys who are working with the car up in the air on the spare tire jack, in gravel, with a worn out chrome vanadium adjustable wrench, with the battery still hooked up. Guys who arent qualified to put batteries in a remote. Those are the guys whom I think you are referring to.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Lmfao, yep them guys.

wph351

iTrader: (3)

Myself from 20 years ago.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

we must be the same age

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

Old thread, I know...

Can anyone tell me if this is the correct 145 amp alternator discussed here?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...380169&jsn=603

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

If it matches all the specs for the truck 4 pin 145 amp alternator it is. I don't know every part number that fits, I know what fitments fit. Pull up a list of specs for the 03 silverado 145 amp alternator and compare to that spec list and that will tell you if it will match up. Or do like the thread says and look up the alternator under a 03 truck with a 4 pin connector and 145 amp output.

The alternator you posted is the right family of alternator and is a 4 pin, but I don't know if that's from a truck or what it's from...

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

No, that is the DR44G, you want the later model AD244:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...412121&jsn=470

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

dont know if I mentioned it but I am using the new style 2 pin connector with a 2009 2 pin plug 145A alternator in my car... have had it in the car for 2 years so far and its been rock solid

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

The dr44g is a ad244 family alternator. It also comes on LS truck motors so it should work fine.

If you click his link it states in the specs it's a ad244

However the alternator he posted could be from who knows what fitment and the clocking of the plug etc could be different. So as stated it's best to look one up under a 03 ish truck and get a 145 amp, and confirm it is a 4 pin connector for ease of plug and play. The 2 wire connectors work also but aren't plug and play, you have to change the exciter connector.


For anyone needing clarity I posted all the information needed in the very first post of this thread.

G Atsma

Dang, another 10 posts after this one, your thread will hit the GRAND mark!!

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Damn I hadn't even noticed. For some reason I thought it was 500-600 posts lol

I don't know but I use $50 ones. I created this thread to help people avoid the massive frustration I had with repeat failures and repeat towing bills.. And to do that you should use a OEM truck alternator and stay away from off the shelf alternators because I had 10 in a row fail in under a year. However those were F body alternators not truck alternators. But several people have had the autozone-ish new ones fail in truck form too.... I put a used OEM 145 amp on my camaro, it outlasted the car. I put a used OEM 145 amp on my 2004 truck and it's been on there for years and still going strong..

I'm sure people want new because they want a warranty. Warranties are nice, but I try to buy things that don't need them. The OEM alternators frequently go beyond 200k miles and you can get 3-6 of them for what a new off the shelf one costs.. Or you can get one with a warranty and learn the hard way that when they warranty it out they give you another piece of **** and you have to keep taking it off and fighting with them that it's bad while they keep trying to tell you it's you or your car that are the problem..

A new AC delco alternator, even in F body fitment may be awesome, but I wasn't willing to continue risking spending that amount of money and fighting with employees etc about it. I needed a sure fire solution, and the used OEM units have done that for MANY people here. And I couldn't risk ordering one either, I only had one car and if one I ordered failed I'd be out of a car for daysss. And they would also likely send the original back and say it was fine, like they did at the auto parts store several times. The problem is the alternators either completely stop working or they stop working when they get real hot (being under the hood running for 20-30 minutes, especially in the summer). And the guys that test them, test them cold and they show fine, just like they show fine on the car until it gets really hot under the hood. So my advice is to get 2 used ones and put one on the shelf, you're pretty much guaranteed to get a better alternator that way and even buying 2 of them you're spending half the cost of a new one.

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the additional info Pooter. I just want a new one because I want a new one. You do make a good point on buying two of them. I found some information on the difference between the AD244 and the DR44g from an S10 forum. See below:


"the DR44G is the updated version of the AD244 alternator. Most people prefer the AD244 over the newer DR44G. I had trouble finding an AD244 for a good price and bought a DR44G instead. The differences are minimal, but the AD244 is said to be simpler and easier to rebuild than the DR44G"

Interesting the significant price difference of the old vs new, old being more expensive. I am going to order the DR44G and I will update on fitment/issues with flickering lights.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I know the DR44G fits, but I don't know if the specific DR44G you picked is the one that fits. I say that because I know they put DR44G's on trucks with the same bracket that all the other alternators go in that are interchangeable, but what I don't know is every fitment out there that a DR44G is in, sometimes a manufacturer will clock the housing of an alternator different based on what fitment it is for. I have a feeling there is only truck fitments for the DR44G so you should be good to go, but since I don't know everything, i'm saying I don't know for sure about that part number you picked. So make sure it is a gas V8 truck alternator before purchasing.

I understand you want new, everyone does, but I had 10 new ones in a row fail so I got over that new thing. That's the ONLY reason I recommended used ones, is so that people could get OEM units at an affordable price. Good luck with your new unit, hope it works out better for you than several other people. If you buy a Delco brand though, you'll probably be okay. It's mainly the autozone, oreilly, NAPA, etc etc off the shelf ones that are junk.

b00stleak

Just did replaced mine with a 130amp version. KG3s are virtually unavailable in the 4 prong from what I have found. Fixed my problem of decharging after 5k. Hopefully this is the last alternator I have to buy. Thanks for the thread and research you did Pooter.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Are the rebuilt AC Delco ones that are AD244 4 pin 145a from Rockauto legit?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1517150&jsn=10856

If buying from a yard, how do you know if the alternator is the original one that came with the truck or if it is an aftermarket replacement? Seems like all of this is hit or miss.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I would think an AC Delco 145 would likely be fine.

The junk yard thing goes this way for me.. The original alternators last a really long time, so look for one with lower mileage and you're pretty much guaranteed it's original. However, there's no guarantee. BUT with the junk yard unit you're gambling with $50 or so and if it fails you can return it just like you can a new one, and the new ones fail more than the junkyard ones.

I got trapped in a warranty deal with a $200 alternator, they kept telling me nothing was wrong with it and wouldn't refund my money either until I got in a big loud argument with a manager and it was an ugly deal. The alternators stopped charging once they got hot and they kept testing them on their bench at the parts store when the alternator was cool and telling me nothing was wrong with it and they weren't gonna exchange it or refund my money.

So I'd rather buy 2 $50 alternators than 1 $200 that doesn't work and they won't exchange.

That was my experience though, it won't be the same for everyone.

For the most part the 145 amp alternators are doing well for everyone no matter where they came from, but a few guys have had the parts store 145 one go bad. But i'm pretty sure they were not AC Delco.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

ACDELCO 3342529A {#88864285} remanufactured - $125.79 (4 pin) (2003-2007 silverado)
ACDELCO 3351236 {#19298388} NEW - $146.89 (4 pin) (2006 silverado)
ACDELCO 3351092 {#88877302} NEW - $158.79 (4 pin) (99-02 silverado)
ACDELCO 15263858 {#10392759} NEW - $169.79 (2 pin) (05-06 silverado)
ACDELCO 22781131 {#15847291, 20989651} NEW - $195.79 (4pin) (2006 silverado)
ACDELCO 3212128 {#19151921, 19244751, 20989650, 22781130, 3211845} remanufactured - $272.79 (4 pin) (2003-2006 silverado)

and I'm sure there's even more part numbers for ACDELCO AD244 or AG244 or KG3 145a with 2.2 or 2.3 outside pulley diameters that fit the silverado. Funny thing is all these probably put out the same amount of power and probably all fit the same with the exception of the 2 pin.

My local yard has some for $60, going to check the milage out on them tomorrow. What's interesting is the car-part.com search engine seems incorrect. There are 145a alternators for 99-02 Silverados and other trucks of that year range but the search engine only shows 130a and 105a whenever you do an alt search on a 99-02 truck.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Glad you pointed that out, I looked at Rock Auto and the alternators offered for a 2000 5.3 truck were 105 and 130 amp, so looks like that's what they used on the early trucks.

ZEN357

Thanks for the tip!!!