One quick question about U/D pulley install
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,711
Likes: 999
From: Evansville,IN
One quick question about U/D pulley install The SLP pulley I have is keyed like an SBC balancer and has timing degree marks on it.
I can see the key in the crankshaft but it doesn't look like it sits out any further than the oil pump.
Yes I searched.
Thanks for any help.
When I put this bastard on I am going to heat it up with a MAP torch and hopefully it will slide right on.
I can see the key in the crankshaft but it doesn't look like it sits out any further than the oil pump.
Yes I searched.
Thanks for any help.
When I put this bastard on I am going to heat it up with a MAP torch and hopefully it will slide right on.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: niles,mi
You use the old bolt and have to take it to like 200ft/lbs. Then take the old bolt out, put the new bolt in and crank it to the 200-220 ft/lbs. It is actually designed to where you are supposed to slightly twist the new bolt. That is why you never want to re-use the old bolt.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,711
Likes: 999
From: Evansville,IN
Any idea on the key way?
DO NOT use the bolt to pull on the crank balancer/pulley or else you'll have a post up here saying "I stripped my crank bolt, what now?"
It's a press fit install, as such, it takes a lot of torque to pull it on the snout of the crank. That torque needs to be displaced over all of the threads, not just 2-3 as you start to install it.
Get yourself a peice of all-thread, or a bolt that is 1-2" longer and use washers to take up the additonal slack. Heating it will help. Put it in an oven and heat it to 250 or so and then use a good pair of gloves to get it started on the crank snout. Use a dead blow hammer to lightly seat it. You don't want to smack the crap out of it because your crank isn't mean to be hammered on.
It's a press fit install, as such, it takes a lot of torque to pull it on the snout of the crank. That torque needs to be displaced over all of the threads, not just 2-3 as you start to install it.
Get yourself a peice of all-thread, or a bolt that is 1-2" longer and use washers to take up the additonal slack. Heating it will help. Put it in an oven and heat it to 250 or so and then use a good pair of gloves to get it started on the crank snout. Use a dead blow hammer to lightly seat it. You don't want to smack the crap out of it because your crank isn't mean to be hammered on.
I used a large hammer turned sideways so it crossed most of the pulley and tapped it on until I could get about 8-10 threads then ran it down with an impact.
Getting the pulley on was the biggest pain of the whole swap
Getting the pulley on was the biggest pain of the whole swap
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I'm guessing your question was does it matter where you install it as far as the keyway goes. It doesn't. You can install it in just about any position. Also, I wouldn't recommend heating the pulley. Like mentioned above, all-tread works great and you will be able to pull it onto the crank fairly easily.
Jon
Jon
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,711
Likes: 999
From: Evansville,IN
Quick question... does using a keyed pulley on a crank that doesn't require it hurt it any like with additional vibration and so forth? Or is it so minimal that it doesn't make a difference?
You use the old bolt and have to take it to like 200ft/lbs. Then take the old bolt out, put the new bolt in and crank it to the 200-220 ft/lbs. It is actually designed to where you are supposed to slightly twist the new bolt. That is why you never want to re-use the old bolt.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,711
Likes: 999
From: Evansville,IN
I went and picked up some all thread and about a dozen thick washers that were big enough to cover the whole on the pulley.
I tapped it on with a hammer just enough to keep it on the crank, installed the all thread and washers then nut. Made sure to put anti seize on the all thread.
Used a crescent wrench so I could feel if something was going wrong. I would tighten it down till felt like it was binding, tap around the balancer with a hammer, which would help re center it.
Did this till it seated all the way. Took the all thread out, installed the ARP bolt with some red loctite. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs. I tightened it up till 150, took a long 1/2 ratchet and a 3 foot piece of pipe and laid on it. I am pretty sure I am close if not the 240 ft lbs.
I used a screw driver to lock the flywheel. After doing this I can't see how GM says to use the old bolt to install it.
I tapped it on with a hammer just enough to keep it on the crank, installed the all thread and washers then nut. Made sure to put anti seize on the all thread.
Used a crescent wrench so I could feel if something was going wrong. I would tighten it down till felt like it was binding, tap around the balancer with a hammer, which would help re center it.
Did this till it seated all the way. Took the all thread out, installed the ARP bolt with some red loctite. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs. I tightened it up till 150, took a long 1/2 ratchet and a 3 foot piece of pipe and laid on it. I am pretty sure I am close if not the 240 ft lbs.
I used a screw driver to lock the flywheel. After doing this I can't see how GM says to use the old bolt to install it.
I just installed my Powerbond (SLP is reboxed Powerbond. Its a sexy pulley isnt it? LOL)
Heres what i did:
Used a piece of all thread
Heated the balancer in boiling water for a few minutes
Applied antiseize to the crank snout, so it wouldnt gall.. Dry is BAD!!
Lined it up, and drove it on with an impact turned way down, till it stopped.. then torqued in my ARP bolt.
Heres what i did:
Used a piece of all thread
Heated the balancer in boiling water for a few minutes
Applied antiseize to the crank snout, so it wouldnt gall.. Dry is BAD!!
Lined it up, and drove it on with an impact turned way down, till it stopped.. then torqued in my ARP bolt.
