Are Kooks headers worth the money?
pacesetter work for me and i didnt even have to unhook the steering knuckle! i guess i got lucky and i got the painted version bc i was trying to go fast on a budget! and would i buy them again, yes i would
No... just tin cans bent by monkeys in training.
j/k
yes... top notch piece.
And FWIW, I've seen side by side comparisons with Hooker and Pacesetters which showed a slight flange issue with the pacesetters.
j/k
yes... top notch piece.
And FWIW, I've seen side by side comparisons with Hooker and Pacesetters which showed a slight flange issue with the pacesetters.
I just purchased a beautiful set of 2" kooks from thunder for $900 and the merge collector is a high velocity style. I liked my coated hookers i had a long time ago but i like these even better.
6 of 1 half dozen another. I have had FLP/SLP/Hookers/Pacesetters/FlowTech and they were all headers. That was all I cared about. Although, the FLP's were pretty dang close to drop in from the top and bolt right up. Once again, high dollar though, and not stainless.
I like the Kooks but I think they are WAYYY overpriced... They are no doubt a quality piece, but the mark up on those bad boys is much like the FAST intake. INSANE!
ARH's are similiar to the Kooks as well...
All I know is my BBK headers are a third the price, they are coated, come with an ORY with a very good merge collector, and slide right in without removing or notching ANYTHING! Kind of a no brainer IMO...
Again, the Kooks are a great product. No denying that, but I can't see the justification in the price. You can blame it on tooling, research, yada yada yada... but in the end, didn't the other brands go through the same thing and theirs don't cost near as much, while at the same time fitting well and performing well? So what? The 400% mark-up is because they are stainless?
Gimmie a break...
ARH's are similiar to the Kooks as well...
All I know is my BBK headers are a third the price, they are coated, come with an ORY with a very good merge collector, and slide right in without removing or notching ANYTHING! Kind of a no brainer IMO...
Again, the Kooks are a great product. No denying that, but I can't see the justification in the price. You can blame it on tooling, research, yada yada yada... but in the end, didn't the other brands go through the same thing and theirs don't cost near as much, while at the same time fitting well and performing well? So what? The 400% mark-up is because they are stainless?
Gimmie a break... When you compare power output it doesnt seem reasonable for only another 4-5hp BUT, if you buy 5 items that all fall into the same category your looking at 20-25hp over the guy who bought the budget stuff.
No... mine are 1 3/4 just like the Kooks. Now, if your talking about the y-pipe being 2.5 instead of 3" your right... but I highly doubt it's worth THAT much more power... plus it gives me that much more ground clearance which is nice...
not to mention I like the merge on my BBK's better then the one on the Kooks...
I've seen worse... but for that money, I'd expect to see a decent merge... not one pipe slapped into another like so many other y-pipe manufacturers out there.
and don't get me wrong. I'd love to have a set of Kooks or ARH's... the price just isn't justified. So I'll pass and sleep completely fine at night.
not to mention I like the merge on my BBK's better then the one on the Kooks...
I've seen worse... but for that money, I'd expect to see a decent merge... not one pipe slapped into another like so many other y-pipe manufacturers out there.
and don't get me wrong. I'd love to have a set of Kooks or ARH's... the price just isn't justified. So I'll pass and sleep completely fine at night.
Last edited by Soul TKR; Jun 26, 2010 at 04:11 AM.
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IF you really want to save some money get ebay stainless headers. I got mine for 195 shipped.Then I got a Flowmaster merge for 45 and had an exhaust shop make me a custom Ypipe for 80 So $320 for everything. No fitment issues. pluse headers and lid only i made 330whp and 350wtq.
man... if I made my power on the shorties I'd love to see the gain on LT's!!!!!! I do have the shorties on my rustang! 
BTW... that Tyra Banks avatar makes me laugh everytime I see it...
I've heard she's a real bitch so that avatar fits nicely! LMAO!!! 
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: at your moms
Love my pacesetters, I could have got kooks but stuck the money into other parts. Its really how much you want to spend as you can tell the people who have kooks love them and the people who have pacesetters love them so its all you
BBK headers are an OK choice for the money, but they're not as good as a Pacesetter longtune. BBK's are barely a "long" tube, I'd be pressed to call them a big mid-length header. They also utilize CRAP ball flanges, and a 2.5 Ypipe.
Spend the extra $100 and get a full length longtube and 3" Ypipe with the Pacesetters.
Spend the extra $100 and get a full length longtube and 3" Ypipe with the Pacesetters.
BBK headers are an OK choice for the money, but they're not as good as a Pacesetter longtune. BBK's are barely a "long" tube, I'd be pressed to call them a big mid-length header. They also utilize CRAP ball flanges, and a 2.5 Ypipe.
Spend the extra $100 and get a full length longtube and 3" Ypipe with the Pacesetters.
Spend the extra $100 and get a full length longtube and 3" Ypipe with the Pacesetters.
Check out a few of these links if you don't believe me...
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130386
http://www.theamcforum.com/forum/hea..._topic603.html
http://www.oilstates.com/fw/main/Bal...C2%AE-625.html
http://www.cartechautoparts.com/exhaust-flange/
Last edited by Soul TKR; Jun 26, 2010 at 06:17 PM.
Being where you are located it's a tough call. For me I have owned this car since 03, and it has seen three sets of headers. First, pacesetters were cheap, made decent power, and fit the best. Problem, lasted 2.5 years before the first hole appeared in the collector, welded them up sold them for $50 to someone who re coated them. I would not re purchase them simply based on the fact they rotted out fast...
Second set, older qtp headers which some people say were made by kooks, fwiw they look exactly like kooks but I dont know. Fitment was ok, no notching, but difficult to get in/out. Sold only because Im steeped up to 1 7/8" arh's.
The ARH's fit the worst, but I believe it was the tube size, as I have installed their 1 3/4" easily in other cars. Other problem, you cannot get the starter out without dropping the header, not a chance...
I Say go stainless whether it be arh, kooks, even ebay if you plan to keep the car, who cares if it discolors, it wont rot... And if you polish them yourself first, they seems to stay shiny, but get a gold, red, blue rainbow and actually look pretty neat.
As for the bbk ball and cup, yes they are crap.... But I dont like flanges either and only run v bands now. They never leak, no restriction, and 1 bolt removal per side. It gets really annoying to worry about slip fit's and gaskets, or rusting bolts, or ball and cups that do reduce flow somewhat. I just loosen my trusty stainless v band, and swap my clutch easily, or go open headers at the track. Considering they can be removed so easily and seal so well, im surprised header companies dont use them ...
Second set, older qtp headers which some people say were made by kooks, fwiw they look exactly like kooks but I dont know. Fitment was ok, no notching, but difficult to get in/out. Sold only because Im steeped up to 1 7/8" arh's.
The ARH's fit the worst, but I believe it was the tube size, as I have installed their 1 3/4" easily in other cars. Other problem, you cannot get the starter out without dropping the header, not a chance...
I Say go stainless whether it be arh, kooks, even ebay if you plan to keep the car, who cares if it discolors, it wont rot... And if you polish them yourself first, they seems to stay shiny, but get a gold, red, blue rainbow and actually look pretty neat.
As for the bbk ball and cup, yes they are crap.... But I dont like flanges either and only run v bands now. They never leak, no restriction, and 1 bolt removal per side. It gets really annoying to worry about slip fit's and gaskets, or rusting bolts, or ball and cups that do reduce flow somewhat. I just loosen my trusty stainless v band, and swap my clutch easily, or go open headers at the track. Considering they can be removed so easily and seal so well, im surprised header companies dont use them ...