ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

After my header and plug install, when my car pulls in to a parking space it starts to bog. Really anything at a low RPM involving the power steering pump power drain. It doesn't die, but definitely bogs. I pulled codes from my computer, while the light is off, I've got codes from both front O2s. Could the extensions be too long? Is my .55 gap too small?

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Make sure the 02's are definitly hooked up to the front plugs,not the rear ones..Front 02 codes will put the car into limp mode and run like crap..

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

The thing is, she doesn't run like crap, WOT is pretty damn strong.

SSN8R

Dunno how long you have been driving it after the install, but if you do not do an idle relearn 'drive cycle', you may get eradic results for a FEW miles. Then the car should relearn and be fine.

FWIW,
SSN8R

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

It's been about 300 miles.

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

TTT. anyone?

Revelation222

Im right there with you after my Pacesetter LT and ORY install. My guess is that the a/f is off a bit. Im just going to break down and get a dyno tune. Your problem sounds almost exactly like mine. Get it autotapped and check it out.

foff667

iTrader: (2)

i had no problems whatsoever with mine immediatly after installing them so i doubt its a tuning issue though if you dont have the o2's mixed up like what was said im not really sure what to tell you.

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

AF is possible, before I get dynoed, probably should see about some ways to get more air in? Like TB?

Revelation222

Some cars just have no issues after LT's, some do. Its just the luck of the draw really.

SHADOWLIGHT- I doubt just porting or adding a different TB will help your situation at the present. Your PCM is thrown off because of the addition of LT's to your car. Adding a TB might even throw it off more.

The factory PCM can only adjust to changes to a certain point; even more so with a car such as mine, being that the 98's had more restrictive manifolds than later year models. Not to mention the deletion of the CATS which also frees up the restriction as well. So when you add LT's and delete the cats, the stock programming cannot adjust to such a great change. Although, some PCM's seems to adjust better than others, which might be the case with foff667's set up.

The PCM will adjust slightly the more you drive the car, but some mods are just to much as far as change and variables are concerned. For instance, if someone went from Hooker shorties to Hooker LT's the change in A/F would be minimal so the stock PCM could adjust within those parameters. There are always other variables that could be the problem. My reasoning and my examples are in a "best" case scenario. One could have a bad O2 sensor, or an O2 sensor might not be screwed in far enough, or your extentions could be bad, etc, etc.

However, dyno tuning can diagnose and/or fix all of these problems through trial and error, so that is why I've opted to get a professional to give my car a baseline tune. First, for the headers, and secondly, for all my future mods.

If one knows where to begin, one can more easily find the end.

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it could be the PCM just disliking the headers, she ran like a champ with the Macs I used to have. Would it be almost a safe bet to assume the sensors got banged up?

LS1MONSTER

iTrader: (1)

Headers shouldn't cause a problem like you described. Have you checked all the connections plugs, wiring etc.... To me it sounds like the EGR is taking a crap. Do you still have EGR??

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

Yes I do, would a couple loose bolts cause that? I was working on the y-pipe when my friend was finishing up on that.

LS1MONSTER

iTrader: (1)

Check the tube going into the intake manifold. Theres a rubber seal that could have got kinked...make sure its seated good. That happen to me. I fixed it that..but I still had the problem of the rpms dropping like you described. I ended up replacing my egr fixed the problem. Not sure whats going on with yours though since your pulling o2 codes. Hit me up if your on AIM LS1MONSTER

LS1MONSTER

iTrader: (1)

Does it only happen when your at idle or very low speeds?? Do the RPMs kick back up when it happens? Feels like car is trying to save itself?

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

That is exactly what happens.

I'll check that tube, that might be an easy fix.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Did you disconnect your battery during the install? I don't care what anybody says, anytime you install some of the bigger mods on your car, disconnect your battery. I disconnect both +/- terminals and connect the two together with some test leads. It's supposed to clear all memory in the computer, as well as take out any static electricity in the PCM.

Now this may not be your problem, but like I said, I do it everytime. I've never had a problem, car runs awesome. Go back through your install and keep it simple.

Did you use 02 sims?

Rob

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

Rob, won't this kill the radio memory, causing me to have to pay through the nose to have GM send me the unlock code?

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Yep, well I still have my radio card. It's never been a problem, if you don't have it, it's something that is useful anyhow. I'm not sure of what GM number to call on the telephone, but there is a radio VIN on the back of your HU. Get that, and you should be able to call and do it all over the phone.

It's pretty much a necessity to disconnect the battery during a major install. Without doing so, it confuses the PCM and has to go into WTF mode for awhile, until it figures out what the hell happened.

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

I reset the computer already, no soup for me! Might try it again.