First bolt on headers and full exauhst help!
Also new MM are recomended while doing this job.
I'm not sold on the smooth bellow, IMO it's more for apperance than performance
I'm not sold on the smooth bellow, IMO it's more for apperance than performance[/QUOTE]
and this. both true.
Do you have the actual k&n CAI or just a filter in the stock lid?
Bellow- not worth the money
pacesetters can be had at most sponsors for as cheap as $270 for painted (ceramic coating doesnt last long, so dont bother). also, get better gaskets. paper ones that come with them suck. Just know that you have been warned: LM2 with a non-catted Y will sound raspy as ****. some people jsut want loud and dont care about sound, some do. I say get a better catback if you really want to stay with a Y, but true duals (like TSP's rumbler) sound sooo much better. Screams at WOT, and no rasp.
Also, headers arent a hard install. You dont need any special tools or anything, plus youll get to know your car a little better. Save the money, and spend some time with your car and do it yourself.
2) Actual Band clamps for each joint. They seal better, aren't that expensive, and the shop may try and get away with using U-bolt style clamps which are pretty much garbage. The exhaust shop can also weld them in place, but once welded if you change your mind all those parts have to be cut off which kills resale value. Flanges are a good weld on alternative especially at key joints like the headers to Y, Y to I, and I to your over the axle pipe.
3) o2 extensions. I wouldn't trust an exhaust shop with trying to swap pins on my PCM.
4) Possibly hangers though I'd check with the shop on what they use for hangers.
As for the air box, most lids are lids and the difference is minimal. If you already have a K&N intake it probably wouldn't be worth the cost of swapping unless you planned to do a full cold air intake that bottom feeds air from under the car.
As others have said, the bellows is more appearance than anything. It removes the kinks that the acordian style bellows use, but then so would a $4.00 piece of PVC pipe from home depot.
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Last edited by 01SuperSport; Aug 14, 2010 at 02:31 AM.
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2) Actual Band clamps for each joint. They seal better, aren't that expensive, and the shop may try and get away with using U-bolt style clamps which are pretty much garbage. The exhaust shop can also weld them in place, but once welded if you change your mind all those parts have to be cut off which kills resale value. Flanges are a good weld on alternative especially at key joints like the headers to Y, Y to I, and I to your over the axle pipe.
3) o2 extensions. I wouldn't trust an exhaust shop with trying to swap pins on my PCM.
4) Possibly hangers though I'd check with the shop on what they use for hangers.
As for the air box, most lids are lids and the difference is minimal. If you already have a K&N intake it probably wouldn't be worth the cost of swapping unless you planned to do a full cold air intake that bottom feeds air from under the car.
As others have said, the bellows is more appearance than anything. It removes the kinks that the acordian style bellows use, but then so would a $4.00 piece of PVC pipe from home depot.


