Your headers slid in?
#1
Your headers slid in?
So after much debate and research, ive decided to go with pacesetter lt's and a merged y. I think this is a pretty decent setup. when installing, do i have to remove the steering shaft or anything? I read on here that some do and some dont. I just dont get that? does car year or auto/manual make a difference? my car is an 02 a4. I would like minimal hassel when putting the longtubes on since i will be on a time table. There are alot of you that are running pacesetters so im hoping to get a few good responses.
Oh and what about y pipe banging? why do some bang and some don't? motor mounts, crappy header collector design?
Oh and what about y pipe banging? why do some bang and some don't? motor mounts, crappy header collector design?
#2
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I put the Pacesetter LTs on my car a couple of years back. the pass side went in very easily. had to get the driver side a little higher off the ground than on the pass side but nothing too difficult. expect busted knuckles and a little cussin. gettin the old stuff out of the car us the hardest part. good luck!
#3
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I had to loosen drivers side motor mount and slightly jack the motor to get mine in. I've done it several times now and it's pretty easy. Just expect the drivers side to fight you a little and it should go smooth.
#4
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There is a little **** that sticks off the block on the drivers side and that is the only thing that held me up. I spent a while filling it down by hand until it slipped by. A dremel would have made quick work of it but I did not have one at the time.
#5
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It's not too bad with Kooks, just had to jack the car real high because you need to stand the driver's side up on end to get it in. Might need 'suv' jack stands.
Here's an alternative method to jacking :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...tall-idea.html
Here's an alternative method to jacking :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...tall-idea.html
#7
That seems rather harsh to the motor? im hoping i can get by w/o cutting on anything. i can get the car as high as i need it to be. i guess thats the main obstacle people talk about with header install
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#8
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if you dont want to cut any thing my drivers side went in with a 2x4 and a hammer, you are gonna scratch a bit of paint in the engine bay, but i finally got pissed enough with it that i broke out the hammer and it was in place within 3 minutes
#9
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I posted a poll on here once to see how people were getting their headers in here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-headers.html
For me, I had to remove the steering column. Do Motor mounts while you do headers! Here's my write up on how I did it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-headers.html
For me, I had to remove the steering column. Do Motor mounts while you do headers! Here's my write up on how I did it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html
#12
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ive seen the whole cutting method.. while it really isnt that a huge deal im the kind of person that wouldnt think once about cutting @ my block or heads.. i have flow lts on mine and they are a little more protruded that most.. similar to the pacesetters in style tho... the thing that will make this install the easiest is to have the car as high as possible and to undo your tranny mount.. use a jack to jack it up about an inch maybe 2. be careful tho cuz u can break a motor mount (sounds dumb but ive seen it happen) the drivers side should slide right in with the tranny up and the passenger side in most cases will slide in like a glove without even having to touch anything.
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Same story here as everyone else. Passenger side just fell in. Driver side took alittle forcing. I did not have to mess with steering column or cut tab on the engine. Most of the work is getting all the stock stuff off.
My y pipe very seldom bangs on floor board when I accelerate from a stop. Not frequent enough to be a problem.
My y pipe very seldom bangs on floor board when I accelerate from a stop. Not frequent enough to be a problem.
#16
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my American racing headers fit so well that after jacking the car up and sliding the driver side in with no trouble i could not keep them in...they kept falling back out of the car on there own lol. if you want good headers you cant do better. oh btw i had hookers before these and i can tell you that i ever had to raise the motor or cut anything but i did have to remove that lil oil bypass cover on the driverside and bang them in a little...firewall got scratched but thats all
#19
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Had to cut the tab off, remove steering shaft,and remove the piece that bolts on near the oil filter.
Probably couldve removed a motor mount bolt and raised the motor a little, but thought the steering shaft was going to be easier.
Some y-pipes bang b/c of different header/y-pipe designs and motor mount condition. If you dont want it to hit, after you get the headers in, hold the y-pipe in place and mark the pipe where it needs a dent to give some clearance around the floor brace on the driver side foot well.
OP, mods dont usually just "bolt on"...welcome to hot rodding.
Probably couldve removed a motor mount bolt and raised the motor a little, but thought the steering shaft was going to be easier.
Some y-pipes bang b/c of different header/y-pipe designs and motor mount condition. If you dont want it to hit, after you get the headers in, hold the y-pipe in place and mark the pipe where it needs a dent to give some clearance around the floor brace on the driver side foot well.
OP, mods dont usually just "bolt on"...welcome to hot rodding.
#20
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duno if its been mentioned, but do NOT use the paper gaskets they give you, first puddle will get them wet then they will blow out and you will loose pressure and sound like a locomotive puffing... get stamped metal ones from your local auto idiots store. and cut that block tab off too... pacesetters here... and motor mounts if it needs it...