Engine Mount Recommendation?
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: In your sisters panties
Engine Mount Recommendation? Whelp, my passenger side mount finally cracked and broke, so now everytime I go over a bump on the road, my front end "clicks" and echo's though the chasis; annoying as hell. I went under my car yesterday and it looks to be split right at the top. Nothing serious, but it is definitly broke. It is also dry rotted and the drivers side doesn't look any better.
Anyways; I have three questions:
1) What are people replacing them with? I'd rather NOT use rubber mounts and have the rot on me again. I heard about people using poly mounts? Is this what I should get?
2) I Think I already know the answer to this, but I'll ask it anyways; I'm guessing it is a good idea to replace my tranny mounts too? The car has 96K miles on it, and all mounts are OEM origional...
3) I'm kinda lacking in the tool department right now (no jack, no jack stands, no tq wrench, etc), and I don't have headers, so this will have to be done at a shop. Any ball park figure on what I can expect to pay for labor (if i replaced both tranny/motor or just motor)?
thx
Anyways; I have three questions:
1) What are people replacing them with? I'd rather NOT use rubber mounts and have the rot on me again. I heard about people using poly mounts? Is this what I should get?
2) I Think I already know the answer to this, but I'll ask it anyways; I'm guessing it is a good idea to replace my tranny mounts too? The car has 96K miles on it, and all mounts are OEM origional...
3) I'm kinda lacking in the tool department right now (no jack, no jack stands, no tq wrench, etc), and I don't have headers, so this will have to be done at a shop. Any ball park figure on what I can expect to pay for labor (if i replaced both tranny/motor or just motor)?
thx
Labor costs would be high. I'll just get that part out of the way now. The motor mounts are not fun to deal with. The trans mount is fairly simple though, but the labor costs will be in those motor mounts, guaranteed. No clue on cost though... For some cost savings, you could post up a thread in your regional area and see if anyone in the area would like to help you do those. Some people may do it really cheap. Just a thought.
I'd recommend going with poly or solid for the motor, and switching to a poly mount for the trans as well (piece of mind). As long as the trans mount is as firm as or less firm than the motor mounts, all is good (basically, don't run a poly trans mount with rubber motor mounts). Personally, I'm leaning toward solid motor mounts with a poly trans mount.
I'd recommend going with poly or solid for the motor, and switching to a poly mount for the trans as well (piece of mind). As long as the trans mount is as firm as or less firm than the motor mounts, all is good (basically, don't run a poly trans mount with rubber motor mounts). Personally, I'm leaning toward solid motor mounts with a poly trans mount.
Thread Starter
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From: In your sisters panties
Yes, while i was looking at my mounts, i was cursing inside my head; there doesnt seem to be a "easy" way to get to those mounts.
If i went with solid mounts, wouldn't that make the car ride like ****(er)?
So you're saying if i went with poly motor mounts, i could keep the stock rubber trans mounts for now?
Any sponsor's sell the motor mounts? Are there anr recomended brands I should look at or stay away from?
If i went with solid mounts, wouldn't that make the car ride like ****(er)?
So you're saying if i went with poly motor mounts, i could keep the stock rubber trans mounts for now?
Any sponsor's sell the motor mounts? Are there anr recomended brands I should look at or stay away from?
just get some Prothane poly motor mounts and trans mount. I'd just knock it all out at once. Here's a link for you, but most of the sponsors carry them.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1938
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1938
I get paid to remove poly motor mounts at least 4-5 times a year. Usually, directly after I'm paid the first time to install them against my recommendations.
If the car is primarily driven on the street with minor track use, put stock rubber mounts back in it.
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I am using Energy Suspension motor mounts and love em. My mounts were all cracked and falling apart when I took them off.
When I installed the mounts it was terrible, took all day it was the worst item I have installed to this day on my car.
If I had to guess I would say a shop is going to charge you $500+ on just the install atleast.
When I installed the mounts it was terrible, took all day it was the worst item I have installed to this day on my car.
If I had to guess I would say a shop is going to charge you $500+ on just the install atleast.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 94
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From: Austin, TX
All the time.
I get paid to remove poly motor mounts at least 4-5 times a year. Usually, directly after I'm paid the first time to install them against my recommendations.
If the car is primarily driven on the street with minor track use, put stock rubber mounts back in it.
I get paid to remove poly motor mounts at least 4-5 times a year. Usually, directly after I'm paid the first time to install them against my recommendations.
If the car is primarily driven on the street with minor track use, put stock rubber mounts back in it.
OP you might want to think carefully about what you can tolerate as far noise and vibration before going with anything other than stock rubber. Looks like some people love them, but make sure you are one of those people!
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 623
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From: In your sisters panties
All the time.
I get paid to remove poly motor mounts at least 4-5 times a year. Usually, directly after I'm paid the first time to install them against my recommendations.
If the car is primarily driven on the street with minor track use, put stock rubber mounts back in it.
I get paid to remove poly motor mounts at least 4-5 times a year. Usually, directly after I'm paid the first time to install them against my recommendations.
If the car is primarily driven on the street with minor track use, put stock rubber mounts back in it.
the car is a 100% street car, it never sees the track...
Thanks for replying with that. My stock mounts have lasted 215K miles without issue, but I was going to replace them with the poly ones when I install headers. Now I will be replacing them with stock rubber ones.
OP you might want to think carefully about what you can tolerate as far noise and vibration before going with anything other than stock rubber. Looks like some people love them, but make sure you are one of those people!
OP you might want to think carefully about what you can tolerate as far noise and vibration before going with anything other than stock rubber. Looks like some people love them, but make sure you are one of those people!
Stock rubber it is then!
Solids in my car and I love them. Then again, throw a little sand inside my car and you'd have a parts cleaner, it vibrates so much. I don't think a car without duals would have as much vibration with solids, though.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: In your sisters panties
Yea, but I just wouldn't want my GM custom exotic plastic interior panels to vibrate. I feel as though coupled with my inbred slow passenger window motor and rattling window, it would "cheapin" the quality of my car.
I went Spohn Solid Mounts...using their K-Member...
Daily Drive it.. and love it...
and since they have to support the engine anyways to change the mounts.. just have them do it the easy way and drop out the kmember and put the new one up in place...
a buddy of mine and I did my car on a lift in his garage,... took us about 3 hours total and that included upper and lower A-Arms, the motor mounts and the K-member.
But thats just My $0.02
Daily Drive it.. and love it...
and since they have to support the engine anyways to change the mounts.. just have them do it the easy way and drop out the kmember and put the new one up in place...
a buddy of mine and I did my car on a lift in his garage,... took us about 3 hours total and that included upper and lower A-Arms, the motor mounts and the K-member.
But thats just My $0.02
