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ud pulley worth it?

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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 04:46 PM
  #21  
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DO NOT PUT THE UNDERDRIVE ALT. PULLEY ON. Get the overdrive pulley. TRUST ME, I KNOW FROM EXP....
why would they even make one? thats retarded
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 04:47 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Bramlok
Nobody is going to feel a 8 hp difference. I think these are a waste but like someone else said, if you're doing a cam swap or engine build and can find one for cheap, it won't hurt to put one on. Otherwise I wouldn't waste my money on it.
maybe you couldnt, but the people that are in tune with their car can. most every little mod i do i can tell some kind of difference in the way it effects my car. like i said before, there was a noticeable rev diff and it pulled a lot harder closer towards the redline. not a waste of money imo

Last edited by grimlock34; Oct 27, 2010 at 04:58 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 04:58 PM
  #23  
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most every little mod i do i can tell some kind of difference in the way it effects my car.
this is a very true statement.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 05:54 PM
  #24  
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You can feel the difference in having or not having an airfilter present. UD pulleys are proven to show results on pretty much any engine, LSx, LTx, SBC etc
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 07:23 PM
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thanks for backing me up guys, yeah its only 8hp to the ground, but thats 8hp you didnt have before the pulley.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #26  
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A lot of mods don't make a noticeable difference by themselves, but when you combine them altogether they add up. Except for the electric water pump, that's something I'll never bother with considering they're like $500...
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #27  
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Well, I added an SLP UD pulley, as well as P&P throttle body & a 3" electric cutout when I did my cam swap a few weeks ago. I picked up 39 peak RWHP on the same dynojet, SAE corrected, different day obviously. Both dyno results were post-tune.

I was expecting 40 from the cam only, so not sure I picked up much from the other stuff. The only thing I compared back to back was the cutout open & then closed, which made a 3-4 RWHP difference. Guess my Corsa flows pretty well. So, 35-36 RWHP between the cam, pulley, & TB.

PS I also added smooth bellows & SLP ram air with extension scoop since my original #'s, but pretty sure those didn't add anything measurable.

Last edited by osuhog; Oct 28, 2010 at 07:43 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 10:47 PM
  #28  
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PS I also added smooth bellows & SLP ram air with extension scoop since my original #'s, but pretty sure those didn't add anything measurable.
a ram air setup will .1-.2 or 10 to 20 rwhp on the track

also, how difficult is it to do the pulley swap with out being in the process of a cam swap, so lets say i just got home and the car has been sitting for a couple hours and i wanna do the swap, how hard is it gunna be?
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 05:32 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by grimlock34
maybe you couldnt, but the people that are in tune with their car can. most every little mod i do i can tell some kind of difference in the way it effects my car. like i said before, there was a noticeable rev diff and it pulled a lot harder closer towards the redline. not a waste of money imo
What you were feeling was a placebo effect combined with the advertising from the pulley you purchased that promised "x" amount of hp gains.

Take 3 identical F-bodies and put a pulley on a random one without you knowing. I would be willing to bet you guess wrong. using a seat of the pants test for 8 hp can change just due to weather conditions. On a car say making 350 rwhp, there is no way someone call "feel" a 8 hp difference gain or loss.

Put in on the dyno or take it to the track and see if its worth dropping almost $200 on. If you haven't, I would rather use that money to buy a cam. Now that you will be able to feel.

Just my opinion.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 05:35 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by taman86
a ram air setup will .1-.2 or 10 to 20 rwhp on the track

also, how difficult is it to do the pulley swap with out being in the process of a cam swap, so lets say i just got home and the car has been sitting for a couple hours and i wanna do the swap, how hard is it gunna be?
You have all those mods listed in your sig and you seriously need to ask that question?

I'm assuming you paid someone to put those parts on for you?
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 06:34 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Bramlok
You have all those mods listed in your sig and you seriously need to ask that question?

I'm assuming you paid someone to put those parts on for you?
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 10:00 AM
  #32  
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The majority of butt dyno gains are placebo effect.

As far as gains, I had my car dynoed was pretty bad lean (14.1) and broke the trans. Rebuilt it with a HD driveshaft, put on an UD pulley, and increased the size of my exhaust from collector to muffler from 2.25" to 3"

Went back (granted it was months later) and after air fuel was corrected made 15hp LESS than before even with the mods.

BUT I did go to the track after the tune and picked nearly 2 mph between the tune/pulley (exhaust wouldn't make as much difference since the cutouts are at the front of the pipe) even though it dynoed less
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 10:20 AM
  #33  
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QUOTE]You have all those mods listed in your sig and you seriously need to ask that question?

I'm assuming you paid someone to put those parts on for you?[/QUOTE]

awe do you feel big talking trash to someone on the internet from your mothers basement.

and for whats it worth dick hole, the mods came with the car, besides the intake, the maf, the injectors with billet rails, and the low temp. thermostat. have i gone into the engine its self, no i have not besides swapping rockers and pushrods on my other t/a.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 10:37 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by taman86
QUOTE]You have all those mods listed in your sig and you seriously need to ask that question?

I'm assuming you paid someone to put those parts on for you?
awe do you feel big talking trash to someone on the internet from your mothers basement.

and for whats it worth dick hole, the mods came with the car, besides the intake, the maf, the injectors with billet rails, and the low temp. thermostat. have i gone into the engine its self, no i have not besides swapping rockers and pushrods on my other t/a.[/
Installing a pulley is not really going into the engine. Pretty much bust the balancer bolt loose use a pulley puller to remove the old pulley then use an installer to install the new one. Use a new crank bolt then torque to specs.

Last edited by BaddBird; Oct 28, 2010 at 12:57 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 11:37 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Bramlok
What you were feeling was a placebo effect combined with the advertising from the pulley you purchased that promised "x" amount of hp gains.

. . .


Just my opinion.
Agreed. It's called the "just noticeable difference." Studies have shown that on average there has to be at least a 10% difference in order to be noticeable.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 04:29 PM
  #36  
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I bought a used one(SLP/Powerbond) early this year and have had no problems at all with it. Do it!!! I would get a reusable crank bolt with it though.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 05:41 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Mike Morris
I bought a used one(SLP/Powerbond) early this year and have had no problems at all with it. Do it!!! I would get a reusable crank bolt with it though.

Get a ARP balancer bolt FTW!!
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 01:38 AM
  #38  
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Installing a pulley is not really going into the engine. Pretty much bust the balancer bolt loose use a pulley puller to remove the old pulley then use an installer to install the new one. Use a new crank bolt then torque to specs.
so pretty much it can be done without having to pull the radiator out or anything without it being to much of a pain in the ***.
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by RJB01camaross
Get a ARP balancer bolt FTW!!
Yup! Got mine from Scoggins Dickey


Jack up the car on a lift if you have access to one and get it from the bottom-thats what I did.
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #40  
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you dont have to change the belt at all do you? im considering one for my z but dont know much about underdrive pulleys.
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