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hooker vs pace vs macs

Old Feb 4, 2004 | 10:59 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Steve98Z
See my above post, installed 2 sets of macs, both dropped in from the top with no grinding on anything................

so did mine...i didnt say EVERYONE has to grind, i said someone did. Re Read my post. EVERY header has had someone post the same issues as the rest.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SSactionLs1
OMG kids...what time are your parents coming to pick you up?

there is not a single header out there that hasnt caused someone to grind the block. Which btw is a 13 second mod. There is not a single header out there that has not caused someone to grind the K member. Which might i add is another 13 second mod. Dyno wise we all know the ls1/6 is a very non consistant motor as far as #'s go. LT should make more power.

Macs are nice mid length headers. They are not carb legal and these days you can get LT cheaper. Some LT (pacesetters) even have MORE ground clearance.

P R E F E R E N C E
I agree 100% that it is not hard at all to grind the block or K member. It seems like childish whining to me, or just people with way too much money. If you can save hundreds for 13 seconds of work, why not?

But I have to disagree about all headers requiring a block grind. My pacesetters didn't!
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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as many have said i dont mind doing a bit or grinding to save $$. i appreciate all the replys but hardly any seem to pick a favorite of the three i gave in the post. seems like soon as i start leaning twords one i change my mind, i think its between macs and pacesetters. also what kind of off road y-pipe would work good for macs and pacesetters? also i dont mind doing a little grinding or a tad bit of sawing b/c like most people i'm a blue collar man and i'd like to save as much cash as i can.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:02 PM
  #24  
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Between Macs (midlengths) and Pacesetters (longtubes), there is no argument.
Longtubes all the way, there's no looking back.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:02 PM
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My macs went on without any grinding. The only problem I have had is the offroad Y pipe hitting the bottom of the car
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:09 PM
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is it true that if you unhook the steering shaft at the u joint and move it out of the way that you don't have to grind the block tab. as for the k member some have to cut it, some don't.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:37 PM
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I've got my Hooker LTs in a box in the kitchen right now. What kind of grinding are we talking about here? Did you guys use a file or a sawsall? I don't own a sawsall.....so I need to know what to do.........
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 11:14 AM
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If saving money is important to you, then I 100% recommend the pacesetters. Forget the Y-pipe; get true duals dumped before the axle. Sell your catback to make up the diff.

I used a torch and a crowbar to "grind" my kmember. Just heated it until it was red-hot and then pry it back. It was quite easy and took about 10 minutes.
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 02:12 PM
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my grott's required no modifications at all to anything and they are almost identical to the hookers. the passenger side is a piece of cake and the driver side just requires the removal of the oil drain plug.
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 02:30 PM
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would anyone not recomend coated pacesetters? if so why? b/c i beilve thats what i'm going to go with probably order them early next week. thanks for all
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 02:34 PM
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also if i was to order the pacesetters and the offroad y-pipe, 2 simulators and harness extentions what else shoudl i get if i'm doing the install my self? clamps, bolts, brackets etc.
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 03:18 PM
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Get Jet HOT longtubes. 550 to your door and about a 4-6 hour installation time if you're very familiar with your engine bay. It took my crew 3 hours for the last job we did with just hand tools.
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 03:23 PM
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took me two hours by myself in my garage with no lift to remove the stock ones and install the grott's and y pipe.
btw how much you paying that crew. just kidding.
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Old Feb 7, 2004 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 12stones
would anyone not recomend coated pacesetters? if so why?
I have actually considered getting non coated LTs (be they Pacesetter or Flowtech) because EVERY coated header I've seen rusts anyway and why not save the $100.00+ up front and get a better Y-pipe with it. Non coated will rust faster but what's the difference, plenty of other parts on the car are rusty too.
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Old Feb 7, 2004 | 04:29 AM
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pacesetters are the best bang for the buck bolton... ( i dont consider FI a bolton)
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Old Feb 7, 2004 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 12stones
also if i was to order the pacesetters and the offroad y-pipe, 2 simulators and harness extentions what else shoudl i get if i'm doing the install my self? clamps, bolts, brackets etc.
I don't think you need the extentions if you will be using simms. I'm not sure about that, though.

And I can't speak for the Pacesetter Y because I didn't use it. But I do hear that it is lower quality than the headers... Like I said, go with true duals.
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Old Feb 7, 2004 | 02:39 PM
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You should consider Flowtechs new longtube headers, i ordered a set of coated 01-02 headers, and an uncoated y pipe, shipped to my door for $509 from ls1 speed inc. Thats with the free shipping. Flowtech is a sister company to hooker, so they used the exact same design. The specs are just like the hookers. Mine should be here sometime next week, I cant wait...

Here is a pic of the flowtechs, that Tony (nineball) took of them at the sema show.pic of Flowtech LT Headers

Here is a link to the group purchase, but its ended, but they discuss these headers in it.https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/131216-new-affordable-lt-headers.html
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Old Feb 7, 2004 | 02:51 PM
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wut are legal in california? what can pass the smog job? lts or mls?
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Old Feb 10, 2004 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by black_knight
I agree 100% that it is not hard at all to grind the block or K member. It seems like childish whining to me, or just people with way too much money. If you can save hundreds for 13 seconds of work, why not?

But I have to disagree about all headers requiring a block grind. My pacesetters didn't!

I think what hes getting at is that there is going to be someone from each brand that is going to have to grind something for fitment. Not EVERYONE will but some people from all brands of headers. Im sure all headers from one company are not exactly equal in size shape etc....were talkin thousandths in measurments, but you know what i mean.
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by black_knight
I don't think you need the extentions if you will be using simms. I'm not sure about that, though.

The O2 simms will only be used for the rear O2 sensors. The front ones MUST be connected using the extensions or the car wont run right.
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