Valve seal replacement how to?
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From: Anchorage, ALASKA
Valve seal replacement how to? I have my heads off some some light port and polish work, so while Im at it I may as well replace the seals. Does anyone have a how to on what I need to do?? Thanks in advance
Can't find it on the Instal university site but you don't need much.
-=edit=-
LS1how to.. Forgot about that site.. Some of it is on there under the Cam and spring swap.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
-Valve spring compressor
-Pen magnet
-Flat screwdriver
-(optional) Air compressor fitting for spark plug hole.
-Flat head screw driver
-Slip joint pliers
These have to be done one at a time.
Disconnect the battery
Remove the coil packs and wires and valve cover
Remove the rocker arms and girdle.
Bring a cylinder up to TDC and compress the valve to release the locks and retainer. The piston being at TDC will prevent the valve from "falling" too far. It will sink, but it shouldn't go far. PLACE RAGS (or clean shop towels) around the valve area or plug the holes in the heads with rags so you don't lose the locks.
Use the pen magnet to pull the locks out. DO NOT LET THEM FALL! You could turn a 3 hr job into an engine tear down to find the lost lock. Release the compressor tool and remove it from the stud.
Pull the spring(s) out and use either a slip joint plier or screw driver to pull the old valve seal off the valve stem/valve guide (boss?).
Put the new valve seal over the stem and use a socket to LIGHTLY tap the new seal in place. it should sit flush to the machined surface around the valve. (It's been aa while for me.. Forgot what our heads look like with the springs off)
Reverse the steps for compressing the spring and removing the locks and retainers.
With the locks back in place: when you release the valve spring compressor, the locks should sit ALMOST flush to the spring retainer. Maybe down a HAIR past the retainer..
-=edit=-
LS1how to.. Forgot about that site.. Some of it is on there under the Cam and spring swap.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
-Valve spring compressor
-Pen magnet
-Flat screwdriver
-(optional) Air compressor fitting for spark plug hole.
-Flat head screw driver
-Slip joint pliers
These have to be done one at a time.
Disconnect the battery
Remove the coil packs and wires and valve cover
Remove the rocker arms and girdle.
Bring a cylinder up to TDC and compress the valve to release the locks and retainer. The piston being at TDC will prevent the valve from "falling" too far. It will sink, but it shouldn't go far. PLACE RAGS (or clean shop towels) around the valve area or plug the holes in the heads with rags so you don't lose the locks.
Use the pen magnet to pull the locks out. DO NOT LET THEM FALL! You could turn a 3 hr job into an engine tear down to find the lost lock. Release the compressor tool and remove it from the stud.
Pull the spring(s) out and use either a slip joint plier or screw driver to pull the old valve seal off the valve stem/valve guide (boss?).
Put the new valve seal over the stem and use a socket to LIGHTLY tap the new seal in place. it should sit flush to the machined surface around the valve. (It's been aa while for me.. Forgot what our heads look like with the springs off)
Reverse the steps for compressing the spring and removing the locks and retainers.
With the locks back in place: when you release the valve spring compressor, the locks should sit ALMOST flush to the spring retainer. Maybe down a HAIR past the retainer..
Last edited by bayer-z28; Dec 5, 2010 at 05:04 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,899
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From: Anchorage, ALASKA
Im stuck between PAC 1518s and Patriot Golds. Im thinking the golds because they are 60$ more and come with new seals, retainers and locks. If I went with golds I wouldnt necessarily need more seals. PM anyway lol
Thank you for the information, sounds like a super easy job.
Thank you for the information, sounds like a super easy job.
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The seal swap is relatively easy if you know what you're doing... Just can be time consuming.
I'd try to find the air compressor fitting for the plug hole.. Might make it easier to put the valve spring back on. (And I don't want to be somewhat liable if something goes wrong)
Having a hard time finding it.
I'd try to find the air compressor fitting for the plug hole.. Might make it easier to put the valve spring back on. (And I don't want to be somewhat liable if something goes wrong)
Having a hard time finding it.
Last edited by bayer-z28; Dec 5, 2010 at 05:16 PM.
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I believe the Fel Pro seals are made from Viton and a fraction of the price of aftermarket seals. At least the seal/seat one piece sets are Viton. I just installed some today and its clearly labeled on the Fel Pro package.
