Changing spark plugs
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Changing spark plugs I just got some MSD wires and NGK TR55 Iridium plugs from WS6Store (great prices and service btw!!) and I just have a few questions. I'm guessing I just lightly apply some antiseize on the threads and turn them enough so they are tight? Didn't know if there was a certain angle the plugs should be at. Do I need to gap these? Most people say they come pre-gapped but idk. I have heard some people gap at .50, some at .55, and some at .60.
Other than that, are there any tips you guys have in order to make this easier for me? I've changed spark plugs before but never on an LS engine with it being crammed in the ******* dash basically. Thanks for any help
Other than that, are there any tips you guys have in order to make this easier for me? I've changed spark plugs before but never on an LS engine with it being crammed in the ******* dash basically. Thanks for any help
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
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install and thread them in by hand ,to avoid cross threading.not much torque is needed to seat the new plugs.the right rear plug is best replaced from under the car.children or girl friends hands are great for doing this,don't give them too much beer.
I use a little piece of hose left over from "heater hose mod" and stick it on the plug and use that to thread it in. Also I just break them loose and stick that piece of hose on there to unscrew as well. Don't rush things.
Good tips stated above. Also:
* Change plugs only on a cold engine.
* Pull the wire off by rotating and pulling only on the boot.
* Use a little Di-Electric grease on the inside of the boot or on the ceramic body of the plug, not on the metal contact area, to make for easier removal next time.
* I use a combination of either a small extension, ratchet and spark plug socket on some plugs and other on other plugs, I use only the spark plug socket and and an open end wrench that fits the socket.
* Torque specs are 11 ft. lbs. You won't be able to get a torque wrench on most of the plugs though, so don't overtighten or you could damage the plug or worse.
This is what NGK says about tightening plugs:
* Change plugs only on a cold engine.
* Pull the wire off by rotating and pulling only on the boot.
* Use a little Di-Electric grease on the inside of the boot or on the ceramic body of the plug, not on the metal contact area, to make for easier removal next time.
* I use a combination of either a small extension, ratchet and spark plug socket on some plugs and other on other plugs, I use only the spark plug socket and and an open end wrench that fits the socket.
* Torque specs are 11 ft. lbs. You won't be able to get a torque wrench on most of the plugs though, so don't overtighten or you could damage the plug or worse.
This is what NGK says about tightening plugs:
Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.
An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.
An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.
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