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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:17 AM
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OK so I am working on a head, intake, headers, and cam swap.... but I am running into a few issues.

How do I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail? Can I?

How do I remove the last bolt on the passenger side rear coil pack? What tool will fit back there?

How do I get the power steering pump pulley off?

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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas-Firehawk
OK so I am working on a head, intake, headers, and cam swap.... but I am running into a few issues.

How do I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail? Can I?




How do I remove the last bolt on the passenger side rear coil pack? What tool will fit back there?



How do I get the power steering pump pulley off?



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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:43 AM
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ask and you shall receive
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Unertl42
ask and you shall receive
with a bonus, so he can cool off and have a laugh
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:56 AM
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Autozone sells a 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool.

Use a small rachetting close end 8 mm size wrench for the coil pack by the firewall.

Open end wrench to remove the entire pulley off the head. Don't bother removing the pulley. It's easier to remove the pump, time consuming a little but easier.

Last edited by bene; Feb 5, 2011 at 01:29 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bene
open end wrench to remove the entire pulley off the head. Don't bother removing the pulley. It's easier to remove the pulley, time consuming a little but easier.
huh?!?
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas-Firehawk

How do I remove the last bolt on the passenger side rear coil pack? What tool will fit back there?


i used a smaller socket, i wasn't able to get anything more than a quarter turn i believe. you'll prob get a lot of scratches on your arm from the cowl.

i remember reading something about that bolt, when you're done, turn around, and throw as far as you can.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 09:30 AM
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( Dont remove the pulley, its easier to remove the pulley ) ?? I just swung my whole pump to the side while i did my heads and cam.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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Well maybe obvious, but don't remove the coil pack until after the intake's off, then reaching that bolt's a lot easier. Same goes for driver's side coil pack, if you still have the AIR bracket attached on the last bolt + bolted to back of the head.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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to remove the p/s pump pulley you need that special tool, if you want to remove the p/s pump assembly its easiest with a flex head ratcheting wrench. flex head racheting wrench also for the coil bracket.



to avoid scratched on your hands/arms remove the clips from the cowl.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
huh?!?
That was a brain fart... i meant to say... It's easier to remove the pump, it's time consuming but it is easier.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by firehawk1082
( Dont remove the pulley, its easier to remove the pulley ) ?? I just swung my whole pump to the side while i did my heads and cam.
I meant to say easier to remove the pump off the head than pull the pulley out. Lack of sleep owns me.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bene
I meant to say easier to remove the pump off the head than pull the pulley out. Lack of sleep owns me.
i understood you, i took account the time that it was posted.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 10:18 PM
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that last bolt is a BIA! I did it with a socket...just gotta get in there and fight the fight...
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 10:31 PM
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ahahaha just busting chops!!!!!! just be careful of the sensor when you install the new intake, i busted mine! doesnt take much!
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 12:22 AM
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pass. coil bolt- use 1/4 drive ratchet w/ 10mm deep socket and throw it away. wrench will work to remove p/s pump...alot easeir then removing pully... fuel disconnect can be rented from local auto parts store.... G/L
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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OK so got the plastic fuel line removal tool 3.99 at auto parts house. Then just undid the pump completely sooo easy. For the final coil pack bolt... get this....... If you own an LS1/LS6 like me then your bound to have a few metric 10's lying around. I took the longest one I had (of the three) heated the box end up and proceeded to bend the thing to almost 90 degrees on my gas stove. That bolt didn't have a chance. Took longer to bend the wrench than to remove the bolt. F-in smart right...
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 11:08 PM
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I have a whole drawer full of "custom" wrenches, some like 25 years old. Most I don't even remember what they're for.

This is why they make cheap open ended wrenches-for bending up.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas-Firehawk
OK so got the plastic fuel line removal tool 3.99 at auto parts house. Then just undid the pump completely sooo easy. For the final coil pack bolt... get this....... If you own an LS1/LS6 like me then your bound to have a few metric 10's lying around. I took the longest one I had (of the three) heated the box end up and proceeded to bend the thing to almost 90 degrees on my gas stove. That bolt didn't have a chance. Took longer to bend the wrench than to remove the bolt. F-in smart right...
any nice cuts or deep scratches!!! use some wire cutters to cut off the tips of the retainers underneath the dash, u know what i'm talking about..
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by cowboysfan
any nice cuts or deep scratches!!! use some wire cutters to cut off the tips of the retainers underneath the dash, u know what i'm talking about..
Hell yeah, first day I was all cut up.... then I said screw this and grabbed a set of dikes and started snipping. This is the kind of stuff LS1 how to doesn't inform you about. I am starting to hate that wab site.. I have come across so much bs that was not in there its redick... I forwarded him some photos and instructed him that he is missing a few steps in his process of the head change but then again I have a 2000 TA and I think the site is for a 2001 year swap.
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