This upgrade is kicking my ...
#1
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This upgrade is kicking my ...
OK so I am working on a head, intake, headers, and cam swap.... but I am running into a few issues.
How do I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail? Can I?
How do I remove the last bolt on the passenger side rear coil pack? What tool will fit back there?
How do I get the power steering pump pulley off?
How do I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail? Can I?
How do I remove the last bolt on the passenger side rear coil pack? What tool will fit back there?
How do I get the power steering pump pulley off?
#2
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OK so I am working on a head, intake, headers, and cam swap.... but I am running into a few issues.
How do I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail? Can I?
How do I remove the last bolt on the passenger side rear coil pack? What tool will fit back there?
How do I get the power steering pump pulley off?
How do I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail? Can I?
How do I remove the last bolt on the passenger side rear coil pack? What tool will fit back there?
How do I get the power steering pump pulley off?
#5
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Autozone sells a 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool.
Use a small rachetting close end 8 mm size wrench for the coil pack by the firewall.
Open end wrench to remove the entire pulley off the head. Don't bother removing the pulley. It's easier to remove the pump, time consuming a little but easier.
Use a small rachetting close end 8 mm size wrench for the coil pack by the firewall.
Open end wrench to remove the entire pulley off the head. Don't bother removing the pulley. It's easier to remove the pump, time consuming a little but easier.
Last edited by bene; 02-05-2011 at 01:29 PM.
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i used a smaller socket, i wasn't able to get anything more than a quarter turn i believe. you'll prob get a lot of scratches on your arm from the cowl.
i remember reading something about that bolt, when you're done, turn around, and throw as far as you can.
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#10
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to remove the p/s pump pulley you need that special tool, if you want to remove the p/s pump assembly its easiest with a flex head ratcheting wrench. flex head racheting wrench also for the coil bracket.
to avoid scratched on your hands/arms remove the clips from the cowl.
to avoid scratched on your hands/arms remove the clips from the cowl.
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pass. coil bolt- use 1/4 drive ratchet w/ 10mm deep socket and throw it away. wrench will work to remove p/s pump...alot easeir then removing pully... fuel disconnect can be rented from local auto parts store.... G/L
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OK so got the plastic fuel line removal tool 3.99 at auto parts house. Then just undid the pump completely sooo easy. For the final coil pack bolt... get this....... If you own an LS1/LS6 like me then your bound to have a few metric 10's lying around. I took the longest one I had (of the three) heated the box end up and proceeded to bend the thing to almost 90 degrees on my gas stove. That bolt didn't have a chance. Took longer to bend the wrench than to remove the bolt. F-in smart right...
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OK so got the plastic fuel line removal tool 3.99 at auto parts house. Then just undid the pump completely sooo easy. For the final coil pack bolt... get this....... If you own an LS1/LS6 like me then your bound to have a few metric 10's lying around. I took the longest one I had (of the three) heated the box end up and proceeded to bend the thing to almost 90 degrees on my gas stove. That bolt didn't have a chance. Took longer to bend the wrench than to remove the bolt. F-in smart right...
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Hell yeah, first day I was all cut up.... then I said screw this and grabbed a set of dikes and started snipping. This is the kind of stuff LS1 how to doesn't inform you about. I am starting to hate that wab site.. I have come across so much bs that was not in there its redick... I forwarded him some photos and instructed him that he is missing a few steps in his process of the head change but then again I have a 2000 TA and I think the site is for a 2001 year swap.