LS6 rods strength
LS6 rods strength I am building a max-effort (within allowable budget) 346
Currently I have a crate LS6 (still in the box for a couple weeks)
A FAST 102 intake and TB, fairly radical TrRaptor cam, Kooks 1-7/8th headers and stock 243 heads.
(I plan to sell 243's and install Trick Flow 220's)
Goal is 480+ RWHP (will also install EWP and cut-outs)
Going into lightweight M-6 drag car that will see very limited street use.
Obviously I dont have a ton of torque to work with and will need motor to spin 7K reliably.
I have some BIG dreams/goals here but am willing to pay in money/sweat/time for what I want.
If I had to do it over I would just purchase a forged LS1 Short block
(I want to stay at 346 C.I.D.) on this build
My question is : Can the stock LS6 rods withstand 480-500 RWHP reliably?
Its a 2004 CTS-V block (one of the SDCP $3200 deals!) so it has the upgraded rod bolts already.
I have a set of ARP's but have been told that I will need to tear the new motor apart and have the rod's re-sized to install them correctly.
That's OK, but Should I go with forged rods while I am in there?
Sure would like to have a 2600 lb. 500 RWHP all-motor stock-bottom end car!
Lot's of bragging rights there (if I can make it!)
How well will these stock rods handle 500 r.w.h.p @ 6,400+ RPM?
I know, nobody knows until something goes BOOM! - Welcome to racing!
I welcome all veteran racers suggestions
Currently I have a crate LS6 (still in the box for a couple weeks)
A FAST 102 intake and TB, fairly radical TrRaptor cam, Kooks 1-7/8th headers and stock 243 heads.
(I plan to sell 243's and install Trick Flow 220's)
Goal is 480+ RWHP (will also install EWP and cut-outs)
Going into lightweight M-6 drag car that will see very limited street use.
Obviously I dont have a ton of torque to work with and will need motor to spin 7K reliably.
I have some BIG dreams/goals here but am willing to pay in money/sweat/time for what I want.
If I had to do it over I would just purchase a forged LS1 Short block
(I want to stay at 346 C.I.D.) on this build
My question is : Can the stock LS6 rods withstand 480-500 RWHP reliably?
Its a 2004 CTS-V block (one of the SDCP $3200 deals!) so it has the upgraded rod bolts already.
I have a set of ARP's but have been told that I will need to tear the new motor apart and have the rod's re-sized to install them correctly.
That's OK, but Should I go with forged rods while I am in there?
Sure would like to have a 2600 lb. 500 RWHP all-motor stock-bottom end car!
Lot's of bragging rights there (if I can make it!)
How well will these stock rods handle 500 r.w.h.p @ 6,400+ RPM?
I know, nobody knows until something goes BOOM! - Welcome to racing!
I welcome all veteran racers suggestions
Last edited by etrnl_velocity; Feb 10, 2011 at 08:29 PM. Reason: wrong info
i'd be more afraid of the rpm. the stock rods seem to hold high hp very well, it is high rpm that kills them. with that being said, i've seen the rods hold up well to 7500. i wouldn't spin any higher on a stock rod and/or wet sump.
you'll be fine. i also think you might opt for a larger cam if you are headed in a max effort direction.
you'll be fine. i also think you might opt for a larger cam if you are headed in a max effort direction.
Thanks S346K, here are the cam specs 236/242 .615/.615 111+2 lsa
I'm not locked into TFS 220 heads though they seem to be the safe (and expensive)
way to get the numbers I'm looking for. Any suggestions there?
If the stock rods are good to 7,500 RPM I think I'm in pretty good shape then as-is!
When I started this build all I wanted was the E.T. but now I am getting pretty stuck on doing this as an all-motor,stock bottom end 346.
Are the stock rod bolts (post 2001 version) also good to 7,500 RPM?
That would be great as there is some debate as to whether a rod bolt upgrade is still considered a stock bottom end.
I'm not locked into TFS 220 heads though they seem to be the safe (and expensive)
way to get the numbers I'm looking for. Any suggestions there?
If the stock rods are good to 7,500 RPM I think I'm in pretty good shape then as-is!
When I started this build all I wanted was the E.T. but now I am getting pretty stuck on doing this as an all-motor,stock bottom end 346.
Are the stock rod bolts (post 2001 version) also good to 7,500 RPM?
That would be great as there is some debate as to whether a rod bolt upgrade is still considered a stock bottom end.
Dude put that ls6 in the 2600# car and be happy you don't have to work on it. Check my sig for my crate ls6. That's in a 3100# car and I don't leave on it very hard cause it still has the 7.5 10 bolt in it. Trust it will be plenty fast. You would be looking at mid tens in a car you don't have to f-with.
Great numbers for a stock LS6 @3100 lbs!
That does get me thinkin,
I could put my car together (when it gets back from paint shop)
instead of waiting for more parts.....
Install the bolt-ons next year maybe
That does get me thinkin,
I could put my car together (when it gets back from paint shop)
instead of waiting for more parts.....
Install the bolt-ons next year maybe
kooks 1 7/8ths.... I've out ran a many h/c setups and 03/04 cobra's. It has power everywhere and I turn 6800. If you put it in that car it would be alot of fun and very deceiving for people. The best part is that it will run forever....mine just did a new best last year with 80,000 miles on it.
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Verdad Gallardo I agree with hiossilver. The ls6 is a stout motor by itself. Granted..a max effort build will make more power, it will def not drive like that crate motor or even close to it. Set the car up right and drive it hard. If I do any hc setup it will involve 57cc heads, an ls6 cam and e85.
If you have E85 availible those injectors would be great! You could also use as much compression as possible with some small heads. close to 12:1 and you would EASILY make 500rwhp, I wouldnt mess with it much, doubt you will even need to spin it that high either
Thanks Guys, you all had great input.
I am now thinking, (always subject to change- but that's the fun of it!) that I will install the crate LS6 as-is once car gets back from paint shop (95 Z/28 Hugger Orange w/White deck stripes!)
I still have the Raptor cam and can always install at later time (I've heard its an awesome cam and I will want to use it somewhere)
I'm a big fan of E-85
What kind of power could I make on E-85 with shaved 243's and LS6 cam (40 lb. injectors,Fast 102 intake and TB, Kooks 1-7/8ths, EWP and cut-outs) (LS6 compression is 11:5)
I am also interested in water/meth injection.
I am now thinking, (always subject to change- but that's the fun of it!) that I will install the crate LS6 as-is once car gets back from paint shop (95 Z/28 Hugger Orange w/White deck stripes!)
I still have the Raptor cam and can always install at later time (I've heard its an awesome cam and I will want to use it somewhere)
I'm a big fan of E-85
What kind of power could I make on E-85 with shaved 243's and LS6 cam (40 lb. injectors,Fast 102 intake and TB, Kooks 1-7/8ths, EWP and cut-outs) (LS6 compression is 11:5)
I am also interested in water/meth injection.
Last edited by etrnl_velocity; Feb 14, 2011 at 12:19 PM.
E85 57cc heads LS6 cam I agree with hiossilver. The ls6 is a stout motor by itself. Granted..a max effort build will make more power, it will def not drive like that crate motor or even close to it. Set the car up right and drive it hard. If I do any hc setup it will involve 57cc heads, an ls6 cam and e85.
Stock LS6 243's are 10:5, I could shave the heads easily enough for maybe half a point compression.
I am very interested in E85 for sure (I wonder if the nitrous bungs in my FAST 102 manifold will work for water/meth injection - I would think so).
How close to my 500 RWHP goal could I get with my stock 243 heads (shaved) and My .615 lift 232 duration 111 LSA Cam and E85?
That would be a CHEAP and FUN way to go if it got me near my goal (trick flow's are way spendy!)
Last edited by etrnl_velocity; Feb 17, 2011 at 11:36 PM.
