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Old 04-29-2011, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by V68Sweep
Well, cost effective? Our drop in filters are like $30 maybe, and then you never have to pay a dime after that.
And why would they not increase performance on an fbody setup...if they increase the amount of air that is being brought into the engine, then more power can be made.
And what do you mean MAF reading? Are you referring to the rumor of the oil coating the air intake sensor?
And yeah I know Wix obviously has a very good reputation.

I'm not trying to say you're wrong, just discussing
1. they dont increase the air ammount any. 2. If even slightly over oiled they will leave a residue of oil on the maf hot wires and cause skewed readings. 3. wix is used by NASCAR and several other " cost is not a concern" racing teams. 4. K&N dosent filter verry well, dont believe me, run one for 3k miles or so then take off the lid and run your finger around the inside of it. I bet theres a dust film....
Old 04-29-2011, 12:44 PM
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A buddy of mine that does my installs knew someone that built my trans. I thought about doing a m6 swap but a stalled auto is fun.
Old 04-29-2011, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by will8908
Please don't start the k&n vs paper filter debate lol. I've read all on here and its Pretty back and forth. But most people say the k&n lets in more dirt and the oil coats everything blah. I was thinking of going with that amsoil filter..no oil, but its also cleanable with compressed air so no need to replace all the time. Any thoughts?
I'm not trying to debate. I've learned a lot about cars over the past few years, but as I learn more I see how much I don't know, so I'm always up for admitting that I learned something wrong and correcting my mistake, so I just like sharing my opinions and learning from others is all. I recently addressed this oil/MAF issue recently at my job.

http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm

Hard to say that this is completely 100% true, but it's worth considering I guess
Old 04-29-2011, 01:24 PM
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Like someone said, gears prob 3.73. Good call on the trans cooler. Your trans should be ok I would be more concerned with the 10 bolt.
Old 04-29-2011, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by V68Sweep
I'm not trying to debate. I've learned a lot about cars over the past few years, but as I learn more I see how much I don't know, so I'm always up for admitting that I learned something wrong and correcting my mistake, so I just like sharing my opinions and learning from others is all. I recently addressed this oil/MAF issue recently at my job.

http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm

Hard to say that this is completely 100% true, but it's worth considering I guess

It's been back to back dyno tested by more than one shop and the K&N isn't worth any hp over a paper filter in an F-body even on a H/C setup. I believe when Ron @ Vengeance did it there was a quite large thread following it.

So, if it's not worth any power and the paper filters better (no contesting that), why use it?
Old 04-29-2011, 01:38 PM
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For what it's worth I run a K&N cone filter on my Chevelle. So I'm not saying it's a bad product, just highlighting the reasons a person might prefer a paper filter.

A paper filter is a couple bucks and filters better. There are no HP gains with either. Just to each their own type of thing...
Old 04-29-2011, 04:28 PM
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Heads and Intake would def be in the future probably. But I have other things I want to address before then.

Again, any opinions on the AMSOIL filter? specifically vs just getting a new K&N..?
Old 04-29-2011, 04:46 PM
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Not to pick a fight but why did you pick that cam? Just curious. I think you should go more aggressive with the same or higher LSA. Don't undercam it if you plan on continuing the mods. Something in the 598 to 603 lift would be more like it.
Old 04-29-2011, 04:59 PM
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Look into AFE dry filters. They're cotton guaze but non-oiled. A few years ago a magazine did a huge comparison of several popular performance filters of the same size and the AFE flowed the highest. TSP used to sell them for around $45
Old 04-29-2011, 05:29 PM
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The hotly contested debate here is the air filter? I think that the choice of stall may be a bit more important. You may end up wanting a looser converter than a 3200 if you're going to go through the trouble and expense of swapping it out, especially if you're going to stay naturally aspirated. Like a lot of people here I had weak converter remorse after going too conservative. Someone at Yank or Circle D may be able to help with choosing one if you give them the car's specs.
Old 04-29-2011, 07:29 PM
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there isnt really a debate, the topic just came up, so I thought I would get opinions on it. But basically I was just looking for opinions on the entire list. As for the cam size, I'm not much of an expert on all the specs. That cam was spec'd for me by the guy doing the work. The car is my DD, so I was told not to go TOO big on the cam. Basically same for the stall.
Old 04-29-2011, 08:31 PM
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I agree with TommyV8. You may want to consider going a little bigger on the stall. 3600-4000 Yank or Vig, along with a tranny cooler and still have great street manners . BTW ,nice mod list .

Last edited by Mac 2002 SS; 04-30-2011 at 06:53 AM.
Old 04-29-2011, 08:49 PM
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well the stall is already paid for so I guess I'll just kick myself around some for a little while. But it'll be ok. Thanks for the props!
Old 04-30-2011, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
1. they dont increase the air ammount any. 2. If even slightly over oiled they will leave a residue of oil on the maf hot wires and cause skewed readings. 3. wix is used by NASCAR and several other " cost is not a concern" racing teams. 4. K&N dosent filter verry well, dont believe me, run one for 3k miles or so then take off the lid and run your finger around the inside of it. I bet theres a dust film....
This is why I run Airaid filters... K&N (made of 4 layer cotton gauze) does let fine particles and oil through.. i believe about 10 microns. Airaid has the same construction as a K&N, but it incorporates a 5th layer of synthetic material to filter down to 5 microns as well as prevent the oil from wicking through the filter.

And NASCAR isnt a good example. They run restrictor plates to slow the cars down, does that mean we should too? They do lots of things to conform to RULES. Did you know that pro stock, funny car, and some dragsters use K&N filters?

Just some food for thought. Sorry for the
Old 04-30-2011, 10:28 AM
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you should also replace the weak stock timing chain, since it's probably never been done. With the cam you'll be spinning more RPM's and it's just good insurance against a possible major issue. double roller is strongest, but LS2 chain is very good cost effective upgrade. Also should consider upgrading your stock flexplate to an SFI approved one. Heard too many horror stories of them breakin with more stall speed. some 3:73's will wake it up nicely too. Good Luck With Build
Old 05-01-2011, 01:47 AM
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glad some people have read up on the K&N filters. i also agree with the timing chain, you can buy OEM ls6 timing chains cheap and will work fine. if you can swing it try to pick up a set of 243 heads, preferably with the sodium valves. they can be had around $3-400 range and will make the most out of the cam. btw your already pushing the limits of your stock 10 bolt with an auto, doing a m6 swap might put you on borrowed time.
Old 05-03-2011, 09:24 AM
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Timing Chain...CHECK!
Old 07-18-2012, 07:07 PM
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Reviving! Just saw my old post and figured id add to it. Been over a year since those mods and not a single problem! KNOCK ON WOOD!

Currently adding F.A.S.T. 102, F.A.S.T. TB, injectors, underdrive pulley, new fuel pump, and retune. Ive also added an electric cutout since i last chimed in. Had 370 RWHP after cam. Hopin to hit 400 this go around.
Old 07-18-2012, 07:27 PM
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You should hit 400...

Any reason why u went with a 102 instead of 92?
Old 07-18-2012, 07:36 PM
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Not really other than the new 92 is the same price as the 102, so kinda figured why not?


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