newbie with mods = dangerous
Well, cost effective? Our drop in filters are like $30 maybe, and then you never have to pay a dime after that.
And why would they not increase performance on an fbody setup...if they increase the amount of air that is being brought into the engine, then more power can be made.
And what do you mean MAF reading? Are you referring to the rumor of the oil coating the air intake sensor?
And yeah I know Wix obviously has a very good reputation.
I'm not trying to say you're wrong, just discussing
And why would they not increase performance on an fbody setup...if they increase the amount of air that is being brought into the engine, then more power can be made.
And what do you mean MAF reading? Are you referring to the rumor of the oil coating the air intake sensor?
And yeah I know Wix obviously has a very good reputation.
I'm not trying to say you're wrong, just discussing
TECH Enthusiast
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Please don't start the k&n vs paper filter debate lol. I've read all on here and its Pretty back and forth. But most people say the k&n lets in more dirt and the oil coats everything blah. I was thinking of going with that amsoil filter..no oil, but its also cleanable with compressed air so no need to replace all the time. Any thoughts?
http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm
Hard to say that this is completely 100% true, but it's worth considering I guess
I'm not trying to debate. I've learned a lot about cars over the past few years, but as I learn more I see how much I don't know, so I'm always up for admitting that I learned something wrong and correcting my mistake, so I just like sharing my opinions and learning from others is all. I recently addressed this oil/MAF issue recently at my job.
http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm
Hard to say that this is completely 100% true, but it's worth considering I guess
http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm
Hard to say that this is completely 100% true, but it's worth considering I guess
It's been back to back dyno tested by more than one shop and the K&N isn't worth any hp over a paper filter in an F-body even on a H/C setup. I believe when Ron @ Vengeance did it there was a quite large thread following it.
So, if it's not worth any power and the paper filters better (no contesting that), why use it?
For what it's worth I run a K&N cone filter on my Chevelle. So I'm not saying it's a bad product, just highlighting the reasons a person might prefer a paper filter.
A paper filter is a couple bucks and filters better. There are no HP gains with either. Just to each their own type of thing...
A paper filter is a couple bucks and filters better. There are no HP gains with either. Just to each their own type of thing...
Heads and Intake would def be in the future probably. But I have other things I want to address before then.
Again, any opinions on the AMSOIL filter? specifically vs just getting a new K&N..?
Again, any opinions on the AMSOIL filter? specifically vs just getting a new K&N..?
Not to pick a fight but why did you pick that cam? Just curious. I think you should go more aggressive with the same or higher LSA. Don't undercam it if you plan on continuing the mods. Something in the 598 to 603 lift would be more like it.
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Look into AFE dry filters. They're cotton guaze but non-oiled. A few years ago a magazine did a huge comparison of several popular performance filters of the same size and the AFE flowed the highest. TSP used to sell them for around $45
The hotly contested debate here is the air filter? I think that the choice of stall may be a bit more important. You may end up wanting a looser converter than a 3200 if you're going to go through the trouble and expense of swapping it out, especially if you're going to stay naturally aspirated. Like a lot of people here I had weak converter remorse after going too conservative. Someone at Yank or Circle D may be able to help with choosing one if you give them the car's specs.
there isnt really a debate, the topic just came up, so I thought I would get opinions on it. But basically I was just looking for opinions on the entire list. As for the cam size, I'm not much of an expert on all the specs. That cam was spec'd for me by the guy doing the work. The car is my DD, so I was told not to go TOO big on the cam. Basically same for the stall.
I agree with TommyV8. You may want to consider going a little bigger on the stall. 3600-4000 Yank or Vig, along with a tranny cooler and still have great street manners . BTW ,nice mod list .
Last edited by Mac 2002 SS; Apr 30, 2011 at 06:53 AM.
1. they dont increase the air ammount any. 2. If even slightly over oiled they will leave a residue of oil on the maf hot wires and cause skewed readings. 3. wix is used by NASCAR and several other " cost is not a concern" racing teams. 4. K&N dosent filter verry well, dont believe me, run one for 3k miles or so then take off the lid and run your finger around the inside of it. I bet theres a dust film....
And NASCAR isnt a good example. They run restrictor plates to slow the cars down, does that mean we should too?
They do lots of things to conform to RULES. Did you know that pro stock, funny car, and some dragsters use K&N filters? Just some food for thought. Sorry for the
you should also replace the weak stock timing chain, since it's probably never been done. With the cam you'll be spinning more RPM's and it's just good insurance against a possible major issue. double roller is strongest, but LS2 chain is very good cost effective upgrade. Also should consider upgrading your stock flexplate to an SFI approved one. Heard too many horror stories of them breakin with more stall speed. some 3:73's will wake it up nicely too. Good Luck With Build
glad some people have read up on the K&N filters. i also agree with the timing chain, you can buy OEM ls6 timing chains cheap and will work fine. if you can swing it try to pick up a set of 243 heads, preferably with the sodium valves. they can be had around $3-400 range and will make the most out of the cam. btw your already pushing the limits of your stock 10 bolt with an auto, doing a m6 swap might put you on borrowed time.
Reviving! Just saw my old post and figured id add to it. Been over a year since those mods and not a single problem! KNOCK ON WOOD!
Currently adding F.A.S.T. 102, F.A.S.T. TB, injectors, underdrive pulley, new fuel pump, and retune. Ive also added an electric cutout since i last chimed in. Had 370 RWHP after cam. Hopin to hit 400 this go around.
Currently adding F.A.S.T. 102, F.A.S.T. TB, injectors, underdrive pulley, new fuel pump, and retune. Ive also added an electric cutout since i last chimed in. Had 370 RWHP after cam. Hopin to hit 400 this go around.
