Experienced input needed! Poly mounts, pedestals, headers!
Lift, check. Air tools, check. I guess some didnt realize the details in my original post... I have no y-pipe currently, only manifolds and cats which will be off the car for the MM (installing headers directly after) and I have deleted the entire AC system so that cuts down a lot of time removing things. Also I plan on taking the MM pedestals out completely to put the poly mounts in the clamshells.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Bentonville, AR
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Bentonville, AR
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Bentonville, AR
Actually managed to work out another ride so that I could get a head start this afternoon on the car and leave it in the shop overnight... devoted under three hours work today before I left work and so far the stock exhaust mani's and cats are out, along with both pedestals/clamshells... Just a side note, I removed the bolts from the K member *FIRST* so that the motor was still supported, then jacked the motor slightly so that both pedestals lifted off of the K member. Out of curiosity, without even loosening the through bolts, I gave each pedestal a wiggle and those rubber mounts are complete mush (137k miles). And just for fun I did a test fit on each header and after the drivers side butted into a couple spots, I went ahead and took the community advice and took out the steering linkage and both headers were able to slide into place easily. These are the Pacesetter 70-2256 ('race style', no AIR or EGR ports)
This project is moving smoothly so far which is a major relief. Basically all I have to do when I start tomorrow is separate the clam shells, bolt them together with the Prothane mount, reinstall to the block and K-member, and bolt up the headers and ORY. Can't wait to lower the car and hear/feel/drive the finished product!
This project is moving smoothly so far which is a major relief. Basically all I have to do when I start tomorrow is separate the clam shells, bolt them together with the Prothane mount, reinstall to the block and K-member, and bolt up the headers and ORY. Can't wait to lower the car and hear/feel/drive the finished product!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Bentonville, AR
haha yep exactly what I found... And the pic from underneath was taken right around 12:30 so I didnt do too bad timewise. Saturday I finished everything up on my own, except I had to find a helper to start bolts in the headers while I held them in place. Overall not as bad of a project as some make it sound but then again I was on a lift and 1/4" and 3/8" Air Ratchets saved my life 
The car is temporarily just cats to ORY with a turndown, and I will say I love the sound, even though lots of people say "it's too raspy..." Oh well... it is super loud when you get on it.
The car is temporarily just cats to ORY with a turndown, and I will say I love the sound, even though lots of people say "it's too raspy..." Oh well... it is super loud when you get on it.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Just did all the above minus the Y cause I have TD. I did NOT remove the pedestals. No need to. Take the clam shells off, grind the pop rivets down flush with the clam shell and hammer the rivet through. Then drill so you have a perfectly centered hole for your bolts. If you gave a pedestal jack to hold the motor from underneath while car is on a lift then the install is super easy. I did one at a time, either side doesn't matter. Once you get one side in, when you go to do the other side mount it to the block, then use the pedestal stand to move the motor up or down, whichever you need, and the main through bolt will slide right in with your fingers. Actual install time, and I'm not anywhere near a seasoned mechanic, took about 20 min doing it on a lift with the adjustable pedestal stand under the motor.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Bentonville, AR
One advantage to removing the pedestal though, on the drivers side anyways, was not having to unbolt the alternator. But as far as the way you jacked the motor while on the lift is exactly how I did it. The only thing that slowed me down at all was that at first only one Pedestal-to-K member bolt was lined up straight... but to fix that I just threaded the one bolt halfway in or so, then put a 36" pry bar in the middle of the pedestal and pivoted it until I could start the rest of the three bolts, then zipped them down with an air ratchet
