Then I don't know what the guys above you are talking about, you should be done in a couple hours. It really is not a difficult install, only thing that makes it a pain is when you're on your back which you won't be.

 

I'd love to but I'm doing this at work and we open shop at 8 on Saturdays...Maybe I can work something out.

 

As someone else said, soak the manifold bolts. If you break one, there goes your schedule. Add beer and bandaids to your parts list.

 

Yep I'll be PB Blastering them, and I have both

 

Actually managed to work out another ride so that I could get a head start this afternoon on the car and leave it in the shop overnight... devoted under three hours work today before I left work and so far the stock exhaust mani's and cats are out, along with both pedestals/clamshells... Just a side note, I removed the bolts from the K member *FIRST* so that the motor was still supported, then jacked the motor slightly so that both pedestals lifted off of the K member. Out of curiosity, without even loosening the through bolts, I gave each pedestal a wiggle and those rubber mounts are complete mush (137k miles). And just for fun I did a test fit on each header and after the drivers side butted into a couple spots, I went ahead and took the community advice and took out the steering linkage and both headers were able to slide into place easily. These are the Pacesetter 70-2256 ('race style', no AIR or EGR ports)

This project is moving smoothly so far which is a major relief. Basically all I have to do when I start tomorrow is separate the clam shells, bolt them together with the Prothane mount, reinstall to the block and K-member, and bolt up the headers and ORY. Can't wait to lower the car and hear/feel/drive the finished product!

 

 

yep........pretty mushy

 

haha yep exactly what I found... And the pic from underneath was taken right around 12:30 so I didnt do too bad timewise. Saturday I finished everything up on my own, except I had to find a helper to start bolts in the headers while I held them in place. Overall not as bad of a project as some make it sound but then again I was on a lift and 1/4" and 3/8" Air Ratchets saved my life

The car is temporarily just cats to ORY with a turndown, and I will say I love the sound, even though lots of people say "it's too raspy..." Oh well... it is super loud when you get on it.

 

TSP ORY pipe....?

Is that exit on the merger a 4", not 3" ...?

 

The merge is bigger than 3" yes, but it steps back down where your slip fit connection is for your cat-back or in my case a turn down, haha.

 

So is that a TSP Y-pipe merger?
I thought the TSP Y-pipe merger exit was only a 3"..?

 

Just did all the above minus the Y cause I have TD. I did NOT remove the pedestals. No need to. Take the clam shells off, grind the pop rivets down flush with the clam shell and hammer the rivet through. Then drill so you have a perfectly centered hole for your bolts. If you gave a pedestal jack to hold the motor from underneath while car is on a lift then the install is super easy. I did one at a time, either side doesn't matter. Once you get one side in, when you go to do the other side mount it to the block, then use the pedestal stand to move the motor up or down, whichever you need, and the main through bolt will slide right in with your fingers. Actual install time, and I'm not anywhere near a seasoned mechanic, took about 20 min doing it on a lift with the adjustable pedestal stand under the motor.

 

One advantage to removing the pedestal though, on the drivers side anyways, was not having to unbolt the alternator. But as far as the way you jacked the motor while on the lift is exactly how I did it. The only thing that slowed me down at all was that at first only one Pedestal-to-K member bolt was lined up straight... but to fix that I just threaded the one bolt halfway in or so, then put a 36" pry bar in the middle of the pedestal and pivoted it until I could start the rest of the three bolts, then zipped them down with an air ratchet