BBK 80MM Throttle Body
06-07-2011, 09:25 AM
#6
06-07-2011, 01:29 PM
#9
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I have a 85 MM throttle body and I am in the process of changing it out. You can definitly feel crisper throttle response and more power hitting quicker. However I am also a tuner and aftermarket throttle bodies are a bitch to tune right ( unless you have buy a real expensive one ) like one form Texas Marine and performance. Be prepared to spend in excess of 600.00 dollars. Stock throttle bodies are the best for the street and daily driven vehicles. If It's just for the track you can deal with the little demons that they dish out. Don't get me wrong if you happen to get one with perfect blade to seat tollerances they will work out. Problem is with those cheap throttle bodies is the quality controll is virtually non exsistent. I am sure that some members have had success with cheap throttle bodies, but I would be willing to bet there are not many. And I mean no issues as with a stock throttle body. Before I started tuning I had my car tuned with cam and headers only. The first thing that came out of that tuners mouth was put the stock throttle body back on and the stock MAF back on. His words were" it won't be right untill you do". Now since I have been tuning I have learned the benifit of leaving the throttle body alone. I still have the aftermarket throttle body but I have ported it and spent many hours sanding the blade to take all the high spots out of the blade, it works great now but I had to put way to much time into it working out all of the kinks. There is a thread in here about ported throttle bodies for sale, you just mail in your core after you recieve the part. This would be a OK move because it's only 80 bucks. The one thing I will say about a larger ported TB is that throttle response is massive, you don't feel that ( best I can describe it is ) kinda a turbo lag effect. It kinda bogs just a little before it really kicks in. You don't get that with a little bigger intake opening. Just don't go to big and remember to upgrade the throttle body to a Z06 MAF. I am a firm believer that if you have a 78 MM MAF then that's all your throttle body is going to get. This 102 MM horshit is overkill for the street. I can't see the benifit of running a 102 TB with a 78 MM MAF. My reason for this is that at any time the throttle body is only going to recieve what the smaller MAF is goint to let in at any given time. There is much controversy about this subject but I am getting off point here. I didn't put the throttle body on for top end HP but for the crisper throttle response, and it does this quite well. Drive a car with a stocker and then drive one with a slightly bigger throttle body and MAF and you will feel excatly what I am talking about. The differenct is night and day. Just for the record I have a Z06 MAF ( easy to tune, just replace your stock MAF values with the MAF values from a Z06 and that's easy. When you go to tune your MAF and VE tables your MAF line will be almost dead on. You might have to smooth one time. So in all I would say if you want to go with a larger throttle body then find a tuner that knows his **** up and down, and I mean a HP tuners wizard. These mods can be the most frustrating to deal with, mostly becuase the quality of the peices is just not there. Like I said there are great larger throttle bodies out there they just cost a arm and a leg. So I have to agree with the masses here and say leave it alone unless you have a tuner and are not opposed to spending a ton of man hours ironing out all of the mechanical issues ( that come with a cheap *** throttle body ) and a small fortune in man hours on the tuner trying to dial it in. Basically it all boils down to how precise the tollerances are between the blade and the blade seat. Alot of tuners will try to compensate with manipulating the blade with the computer or the blade set screw. Some will say it's incorrect to use the blade set screw. Other will say you need to manipulate the blade with the tuner. I disagree. The engine should stay idleing with the blade fully closed and maitaing your target idles. That"s where a drill bit comes in. You will have to pain stakingly try different hole diameters to maintain idle without computer or blade set screw assistence. Reason is becuase if you increase or decrease the size of the TB opening then the hole in the blade will need to be manipulated. Every engine is different and requires different amount of air at idle. I am sure I will recieve alot of flack about my theory but basically what I am trying to get at here is that changing over a TB is really more problem that it worth in HP terms. But like I said before on a full blown track car it doesn't make any difference really becuase drivability is not a major concern.
