Generation III External Engine LS1 | LS6 | Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust | Ignition | Accessories
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

ATI Damper Install

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-12-2011, 11:30 AM
  #1  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
Aaron B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default ATI Damper Install

I'm trying to install a 25% U/D ATI damper and i'm not sure if it's seated completed. I used a longer blue bolt and washer than came with the damper to help seat the hub. I have it cranked down hard and It's not moving any further. It looks like it's correct. Based on comparing the location of the stock damper and this one. This hub looks pretty deep I don't believe it could go in much further anyways. However, when I go to use my replacement GM bolt it is not nearly long enough to thread in. ATI references a resuable bolt and washer but I am not sure if this it it or not. Has anyone had any experience with this? I was going to contact ATI but it's the weekend.

I have pictures I can upload if needed I just need to find a place to host.

http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/951503.pdf


Thanks
Old 06-12-2011, 02:06 PM
  #2  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
 
99Bluz28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: C. V., Kalifornia
Posts: 9,705
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Some photo's would help.
pm sent.
Old 06-12-2011, 02:46 PM
  #3  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
Aaron B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default







The length of the ATI hub that presses on to the snout is much longer than stock? I can't seem to find a dimension for the ATI. I saw the service manual reference for the stock damper. However, comparing the distance from the first groove to timing cover looks about the same distance as stock damper would to where it is seated now. The stock one I measured to where it looked like the front crank see was rubbing on it.

The instructions that came with it did not mention the bolt and washer that came with? However, the instructions I found on there site referenced a reusable bolt and washer (see 1st post)? Maybe what I used to install it was what I am supposed to retain it with also?
Old 06-12-2011, 02:54 PM
  #4  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
 
99Bluz28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: C. V., Kalifornia
Posts: 9,705
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Yeah, that's out way to far!

Did you read these install instructions?
http://www.atiracing.com/instruction...LS7-Damper.pdf
Old 06-12-2011, 03:16 PM
  #5  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
 
99Bluz28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: C. V., Kalifornia
Posts: 9,705
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Have you double checked the part numbers?

hub #916347
rear A/C pulley #916179
front damper #918845

This is for a F-body, correct?
Old 06-12-2011, 03:21 PM
  #6  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
Aaron B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The p/n on the packing slip was correct. I was going to look at the p/n next.
Old 06-12-2011, 04:46 PM
  #7  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
wildcamaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Western PA
Posts: 2,501
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

holy sampson is that balancer not even close...it should only be like a quarter inch from the timing cover but probably less...use your A/C tensioner to eye up the belt alignment, or even use the belt itself. I dont have an underdrive pulley but when i put my balancer back on i used the ARP balancer bolt. The first time i installed it took like hour and a half. Second time i installed it (put wrong cam in lol what a stoner) it only took like 5 min because i heated the balancer up in an over to 400 degrees F for like 15-20 min, the blipped it on in small increments with a ingersol rand 1/2 inch impact gun...perfect!!! still had to torque it to spec after even though the impact had 400+ ft-lbs of torque. I could only get like 180 ft-lbs with the torque wrench...the ARP bolt makes it so you dont have to stretch the stock balncer bolt in sucessive steps...good luck pm me if you need any advice....
Old 06-12-2011, 06:23 PM
  #8  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
Aaron B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default



The thing is I can not move the pulley on there much farther. It looks like it's the correct distance when I measure. But the bolt is no where long enough. I got about 28 mm +/- a couple MM from the first peak of the AC pulley to the timing cover which is about what I got measuring the stock one similarly. When you measure from the lip that the head of the bolt would rest on it would be wayyy off like 20 mm + where as the stock one would be 2-4 mm. So I dunno. Maybe the pic will help.

I'm just gonna call ATI tomorrow make sure I did not screw up or they sent me the wrong P/N.
Old 06-13-2011, 12:17 AM
  #9  
Teching In
 
conv55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Do not use a longer bolt to try and pull the balancer on the crank you will only strip out the threads i know from doing it, get an all thread and use a nut and washers to draw balancer on crank
Old 06-13-2011, 06:41 AM
  #10  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
sjsingle1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fort Worth TX
Posts: 6,493
Received 215 Likes on 176 Posts

Default

the correct tool may save your crank



Quick Reply: ATI Damper Install



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:34 PM.