Header installations ?
Header installations ? I am getting my car out of storage on friday and will be installing my pacesetter LT's on Saturday. My question is; should I let the car sit and cool down before I start the job and spray the **** out of the bolts with WD-40, or do it while everything is still warm? The car will be up on a lift. Will the bolts come out easier if everything is warm? I think they would, but im not sure. Thanks.
Originally Posted by black_z
I am getting my car out of storage on friday and will be installing my pacesetter LT's on Saturday. My question is; should I let the car sit and cool down before I start the job and spray the **** out of the bolts with WD-40, or do it while everything is still warm? The car will be up on a lift. Will the bolts come out easier if everything is warm? I think they would, but im not sure. Thanks.
in my garage with basic tools. me and FatZ28 did mine in my garage on some ramps, i put it up in the afternoon and we started in the evening, worked for like 3 hours and got the drivers side and all the exhaust off (with help from the good ol sawsaw), then started again the next morning, so i d say work with a cool to cold engine, and i would for sure use the WD 40 on the manifold to cat bolts, those were a bitch
Originally Posted by ls1rocker
me and FatZ28 did mine in my garage on some ramps, i put it up in the afternoon and we started in the evening, worked for like 3 hours and got the drivers side and all the exhaust off (with help from the good ol sawsaw), then started again the next morning, so i d say work with a cool to cold engine, and i would for sure use the WD 40 on the manifold to cat bolts, those were a bitch
Originally Posted by black_z
Im more concerned with the bolts that hold the manifolds on. Any other opinions?
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Northern Va
i have the same fear about the manifold to head bolts. A buddy of mine stripped 3 bolts outof his heads when doing a header install. Would an air ratchet help keep from doing such damage? Im very worried about the aluminum heads cause i dont have teh money to replace them or fix them if somethingl ike that happened
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most of the manifold to head bolt i got off with my air rachet...i think 3 or 4 tops i had to use a gear wrench...most have problems putting them back in not taking them out...if you really wanna be careful run a tap in the threads and youll notice theyve got like thread lock on them and that crap can harden inside the bolt holes and run the new bolts off course...hope this helped.
lata
Bill
lata
Bill
for me an air ratchet came in handy, i sprayed the bolts with wd-40 a couple hours before the install, i broke them loose with a ratceht and then took them out with the air tool, the bolts came out quite easily. but maybe becuase mine only has 30k miles on it
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Northern Va
i have~45k on my 98 z28. Im gonna use whatever they have at the shop to make this install as easy as possible. Luckily i have a mechanic with some experience, (not with ls1's though), installign long tube headers. whats the torque rating to pop these bitches off and on? 18 lbs ? I have a week till the headers get here so i should have some time to put teh car up on a lift and take a good hard look at everything involved. Im usually very thorough wiht my installations, i like to know whats ahead of me, Foffgg7 thats a great installation guide.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 271
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From: California
I work at Loctite as an Engineer. I would recommend using Loctite 242 or 243 (blue) on the threads. I would not recommend antiseize (not a sales pitch as we have a full range of antiseize products). Antiseize products have very high lubricity and it is VERY easy to over tighten the bolts and strip the threads. This is because most of the force used to torque a bolt is taken up by friction and only a small proportion goes into applying a clamp load (stretching the bolt).
eg. A 10 bolt flange may require a clamping load of 200lb to maintain a seal (20lb load /bolt). This may be achieved by tightening the bolts down to 15lbf (tight...by my spanner). If I use the same torque on a bolt with Antiseize, I will be loading the bolts to around 1.7 times the required clamp load (34lb load/bolt). The bolt can generally handle the extra stress, its the aluminum threads in the head that will give first.
Jamie
eg. A 10 bolt flange may require a clamping load of 200lb to maintain a seal (20lb load /bolt). This may be achieved by tightening the bolts down to 15lbf (tight...by my spanner). If I use the same torque on a bolt with Antiseize, I will be loading the bolts to around 1.7 times the required clamp load (34lb load/bolt). The bolt can generally handle the extra stress, its the aluminum threads in the head that will give first.
Jamie
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Northern Va
my worry isn't with putting the bolts back in but taking them out. thats where i've seen problems in the past with cast iron heads. And i could only guess that the aluminum heads would be even softer than cast iron.
who has had problems with bolts stripping out while taking off the stock manifolds?
who has had problems with bolts stripping out while taking off the stock manifolds?