mike171562

iTrader: (4)

My Oil Pan Gasket has been leaking for a while and I want to change it this weekend while I have the heads and the accessories off.

I will be doing this by myself so I'm looking for the easiest possible way to accomplish this, by searching around I have read that some people were able to drop the pan a few inches and fish the gasket in place without pulling the pan out, can anyone chime in and tell me if this is possible and how?

some people mention cutting the gasket , putting it in place and putting rtv sealant in to seal it up, would this work?

Some people mention that the stock oil pan gasket is riveted to the pan, is this true?

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

From GM:

Document ID# 257375
1998 Chevrolet/Geo Camaro
Oil Pan Replacement

Removal Procedure

Tools Required
J 41044 Engine Support Adapters
J 42451 Engine Support Adapter Kit
J 28467-B Universal Support Fixture
J 36462-A Engine Support Adapter Leg

Important

DO NOT reuse the oil pan gasket. The original oil pan gasket is retained and aligned to the oil pan by rivets. When installing a new gasket, it is not necessary to rivet the gasket to the oil pan.




Support the engine using J 41044 , J 42451 , J 28467-B and J 36462-A .
Disconnect the front brake pipes from the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV).
Plug or cap the brake pipes and BPMV to prevent contamination.
Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Remove the oil drain plug.
Drain the engine oil.



Remove the oil filter.



Remove the right side engine mount to cradle bolts.



Remove the left side engine mount to cradle bolts.



Remove the right and left end link nuts (7).
Remove the right and left end links (3) and sleeves (5).



Remove the left and right lower shock bolts.



Remove the intermediate steering shaft bolt.
Position the steering shaft out of the way.



Remove the power steering gear nuts (4) and bolts (1).
Separate the gear from the crossmember and support.



Disconnect the left and right side wheel speed sensor electrical connectors.
If necessary, disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.



Remove the front fuel pipe heat shield nuts (1).
Remove the front fuel pipe heat shield (2).
Remove the front brake pipes from the retaining clip.



Disconnect the oil level sensor connector, if required.



Remove the oil level sensor from the oil pan, if required.



Remove the right side closeout and bolt.



Remove the left side closeout and bolt.



Support the crossmember with a suitable jack.
Remove the crossmember bolts.
Lower the crossmember.



Remove the bottom two transmission bellhousing bolts.
Remove the oil pan bolts (1).

Important

Use care not to gouge, score, or damage the oil pan sealing surface.

Rotate the oil pan until it can be removed from around the pickup screen.




Important

DO NOT allow foreign material to enter the oil passages of the oil pan, cap or cover the openings as required.

Drill out the oil pan gasket rivet (2), if necessary.
Discard the old gasket and rivet.
Installation Procedure


Important

The alignment of the structural oil pan is critical. The rear bolt hole locations of the oil pan provide mounting points for the transmission bellhousing. To ensure the rigidity of the powertrain and correct transmission alignment, it is important that the rear of the block and the rear of the oil pan must NEVER protrude beyond the engine block and transmission bellhousing plane.




Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) bead of sealant GM P/N 12378190 or equivalent 20 mm (0.80 in) long to the oil pan to engine block junction.
Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the front cover gasket that protrudes into the oil pan surface.



Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) bead of sealant GM P/N 12378190 or equivalent 20 mm (0.80 in) long to the oil pan to engine block junction.
Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the front cover gasket that protrudes into the oil pan surface.



Pre-assemble the oil pan gasket to the pan (2).
Install the gasket onto the pan (2).
Install the oil pan bolts (1) to the pan through the gasket.
Install the oil pan (2), gasket and bolts (1) to the engine block
Snug the oil pan bolts finger tight. Do not overtighten.
Install the two lower bellhousing bolts to position the oil pan correctly.

Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Snug the lower bellhousing bolts finger tight. Do not overtighten.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan-to-block and oil pan-to-front cover bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Tighten the oil pan-to-rear cover bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Tighten the bellhousing bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).



Raise the crossmember.
Install the crossmember bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the upper four cradle bolts to 125 N·m (92 lb ft).
Tighten the lower two cradle bolts to 145 N·m (107 lb ft).
Remove the crossmember support.



Install the left side closeout and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the left side closeout bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).




Install the right side closeout and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the right closeout bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).




Install the oil level sensor to the oil pan.
Tighten
Tighten the oil level sensor to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).




Connect the oil level sensor electrical connector.



Install the front brake pipes to the retaining clip.
Install the front fuel pipe heat shield (2).
Install the front fuel pipe heat shield nuts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the front fuel pipe heat shield nuts to 5 N·m (44 lb in).




If necessary, connect the HO2S electrical connectors.
Connect the left and right wheel speed sensor electrical connectors.



Position the gear to the crossmember.
Install the power steering gear bolts (1) and nuts (4).
Tighten
Tighten the power steering gear bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft).




Position the steering shaft to the gear.
Install the intermediate steering shaft and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the intermediate shaft bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).




Install the left and right lower shock bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the shock bolts to 65 N·m (48 lb ft).




Install the right and left sleeves (5) and end links (3).
Install the right and left end link nuts (7).
Tighten
Tighten the end link nuts to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).




Install the left side engine mount to cradle bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the engine mount to cradle bolts to 58 N·m (43 lb ft).




Install the right side engine mount to cradle bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the right side engine mount cradle bolts to 58 N·m (43 lb ft).




Install the oil filter.
Tighten
Tighten the oil filter to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).




Install the oil drain plug.
Tighten
Tighten the oil drain plug to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the caps or plugs from the brake pipes and BMPV.
Connect the front brake pipes to the BPMV.
Tighten
Tighten the brake pipe fittings to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

Remove the J 41044 , J 42451 , J 28467-B and J 36462-A .
Refill the engine with oil.
Bleed the brakes. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding in Hydraulic Brakes.
Document ID# 257375
1998 Chevrolet/Geo Camaro

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Guess that answers that.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

If you are going to have the heads and front of the motor off I would either drop the engine out the bottom or pull it.

For what little will be left on the engine it will be easier IMO to take the whole thing out. That way you can install the heads/intake and pretty much everything else much easier.

It depends on how much time you have, access to tools and mechanical ability. Some of the older SBC engines you could cheat and drop the pan a few inches and stretch the gasket around the pan and put it on. Older Fords were easy too but I don't think it would work with the style of gasket on the LS engine. It's been a while since I did mine but I am pretty sure it has metal almost all the way around it.

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

The only GM oil pan gasket I have seen tougher than the f-body is a 4 cylinder s10 which in SI straight up says remove engine. If you are doing the oil pan gasket you should atleast go with a tubular k-member at the same time and just change the gasket after you drop the k member.

cscott1

I realize this is an old thread, but worth a shot. Is there an update to the Kent Moore tools spec'd? They seem to be discontinued, and the only option is to piecemeal things together from eBay. Makes me wonder if there's a newer version.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Check out align its from sac city vettes

cscott1

Thanks, but I meant the engine holder spec'd above. I don't see it on that site.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

oh, sorry. I thought you meant the Kent Moore front cover alignment tool