Battery relocation plan
07-21-2011, 06:48 PM
#1
Battery relocation plan Read through a couple different threads and they all seem to have a general smattering of information, but nothing definitive. This is my outline for relocating the battery; parts list and procedure look good?
Battery will be installed in the rear in the spare location using the BMR kit, with a 1/0 ground wire running directly from the battery negative to a ground lug installed within 10" of the battery. A hot run of 1/0 cable, with a 150A fuse as near to the battery as possible, will be run to the front of the car into a distribution block. The stock starter and alternator wiring (that would have previously connected directly to the battery) will be connected to this distribution block. Alternator wiring to the dist block will be upgraded to 4AWG and the stock wire removed. Old ground (that went to the battery) will be run to a ground lug in the body (I'm assuming the other side of this ground goes to the engine block?).
For parts, I'll have the BMR relocation tray; 1' of 1/0 black welding wire for the new battery ground; ~20' of red 1/0 for the new hot wire from the new battery location to the front of the car and for the new hot alternator wiring; a 2 into 1 non-fused distribution block in the front of the car to connect the new hot battery wire and the starter/alternator wiring; and a 150A ANL fuse and fuse holder in the new hot line near the battery.
Anything I've missed or done wrong? This isn't for a track-legal installation so I'm not doing anything with the rear-mounted kill switch right now.
Battery will be installed in the rear in the spare location using the BMR kit, with a 1/0 ground wire running directly from the battery negative to a ground lug installed within 10" of the battery. A hot run of 1/0 cable, with a 150A fuse as near to the battery as possible, will be run to the front of the car into a distribution block. The stock starter and alternator wiring (that would have previously connected directly to the battery) will be connected to this distribution block. Alternator wiring to the dist block will be upgraded to 4AWG and the stock wire removed. Old ground (that went to the battery) will be run to a ground lug in the body (I'm assuming the other side of this ground goes to the engine block?).
For parts, I'll have the BMR relocation tray; 1' of 1/0 black welding wire for the new battery ground; ~20' of red 1/0 for the new hot wire from the new battery location to the front of the car and for the new hot alternator wiring; a 2 into 1 non-fused distribution block in the front of the car to connect the new hot battery wire and the starter/alternator wiring; and a 150A ANL fuse and fuse holder in the new hot line near the battery.
Anything I've missed or done wrong? This isn't for a track-legal installation so I'm not doing anything with the rear-mounted kill switch right now.
07-29-2011, 05:08 PM
#2
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Well, I've planned for something along the same lines, and one of the problems you might have is the fuses. the 150 may not be enough for 20' of wire, especially if that ************ shorts out somewhere not near the endpoints. I was going to run two 300's front and back, with another distribution block or multi-terminal in the back for subsequent components.
07-29-2011, 05:57 PM
#3
I figure I'll probably only have about 10-12' actual run; I just want the extra in case I need to run a different route. Easy to cut; harder to splice.
The problem with running massive fuses is there's no guarantee the fuses will pop if the wire shorts out. I do a lot of safety testing, and you might be amazed how much stuff goes up in flames because of wire failure, while the fuses never pop. I'm actually worried about a 150A being a little too big, but it's hard to find 130A ANLs.
Gonna order this stuff tonight, and I'll try and get a few pictures once it all comes in and I start working on it.
The problem with running massive fuses is there's no guarantee the fuses will pop if the wire shorts out. I do a lot of safety testing, and you might be amazed how much stuff goes up in flames because of wire failure, while the fuses never pop. I'm actually worried about a 150A being a little too big, but it's hard to find 130A ANLs.
Gonna order this stuff tonight, and I'll try and get a few pictures once it all comes in and I start working on it.
07-29-2011, 07:22 PM
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The 150 amp fuse should have the capacity for these kind of loads, but might not have the resistance for optimal configuration. If you are planning to upgrade the alternator or add any amplifiers, the 150 might hit the limit before the 300's.
