For you guys bolting up Headers..
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
Likes: 893
From: The Beach...
Lol that's my man fur..25% Italian hairball.
I'm sure there a few threads on it..it's pretty easy to do. It doesn't hurt to get it out there from all of us that do it.
I'm sure there a few threads on it..it's pretty easy to do. It doesn't hurt to get it out there from all of us that do it.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
I have a question for ya Merv. Just so ill have it straight in my head, when you say switch these wire locations i'm assuming there is a wire in each of these locations, right? Not an empty slot like some fuse boxes have.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Basically plugging the rear wires into where the front are. Then the front 02s are being connected to the rear connectors. That way the rear 02 harness acts as the front. The computer doesn't know the difference.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
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From: The Beach...
It's just switching 4 wires..the high and low signals for each sensor. The ground and power wires are all the same.
Just like Steve said..the PCM is reading the O2's as the fronts cause that is what the wires go to..you will be using the rear connectors in the Harness, but they are functioning as the primary O2's.
Just like Steve said..the PCM is reading the O2's as the fronts cause that is what the wires go to..you will be using the rear connectors in the Harness, but they are functioning as the primary O2's.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 69
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From: El Paso, TX
I know this is off-topic also, a little closer than the hairy arms thing though, but is there a reason you don't just make the front sensor wires longer? Like cut and solder? That's free, and you don't have to mess with the PCM, which isn't free...
from another thread:
Here's an except from a GM TSB that I came across today. Do you know if your PCM was ever disconnected?
"KIT (P/N 12167313) CONTAINS ONE CONNECTOR SEAL. WHENEVER THE CONNECTOR IS UNBOLTED FROM THE ALUMINUM BODY OF THE PCM, THE SEAL CAN STICK TO THE BODY, OR MAY BE TWISTED. THIS SEAL SHOULD BE REPLACED WHENEVER THE CONNECTOR IS REMOVED IN SERVICE."
...or just make extensions using junkyard camaro parts... it's what i'm doing
from another thread:
Here's an except from a GM TSB that I came across today. Do you know if your PCM was ever disconnected?
"KIT (P/N 12167313) CONTAINS ONE CONNECTOR SEAL. WHENEVER THE CONNECTOR IS UNBOLTED FROM THE ALUMINUM BODY OF THE PCM, THE SEAL CAN STICK TO THE BODY, OR MAY BE TWISTED. THIS SEAL SHOULD BE REPLACED WHENEVER THE CONNECTOR IS REMOVED IN SERVICE."
...or just make extensions using junkyard camaro parts... it's what i'm doing
Last edited by Grim Crow; Sep 26, 2011 at 04:29 AM.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Bentonville, AR
I spliced extensions the first time... ended up not working so great. Next time I had my headers off I had new o2's and I went ahead and tried this. Super easy and works like a charm. So glad I didn't throw 40 dollars at extensions. I was nervous at first getting into the PCM but once I got over that it was cake. I'd recommend this to anyone doing headers/o2 sensors/extensions
When I installed BBK LT's I didn't have to extend the passenger side, but I did on the drivers side. I didn't want to screw with the main harness and I extended the 02 sensor itself. No problems so far that I notice. Hell, the 02 sensor was 12 years old so if it didn't work it needed to be replaced anyways. I really didn't want to put new ones in before getting a tune anyways. Kinda rich after LT's and other mods. I will prolly buy Crovette Denso rear for the driver side and a regular F-body front for the passenger side. Maybe even the Bosch 13111's or whatever they are.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
Likes: 893
From: The Beach...
I know this is off-topic also, a little closer than the hairy arms thing though, but is there a reason you don't just make the front sensor wires longer? Like cut and solder? That's free, and you don't have to mess with the PCM, which isn't free...
from another thread:
Here's an except from a GM TSB that I came across today. Do you know if your PCM was ever disconnected?
"KIT (P/N 12167313) CONTAINS ONE CONNECTOR SEAL. WHENEVER THE CONNECTOR IS UNBOLTED FROM THE ALUMINUM BODY OF THE PCM, THE SEAL CAN STICK TO THE BODY, OR MAY BE TWISTED. THIS SEAL SHOULD BE REPLACED WHENEVER THE CONNECTOR IS REMOVED IN SERVICE."
...or just make extensions using junkyard camaro parts... it's what i'm doing
from another thread:
Here's an except from a GM TSB that I came across today. Do you know if your PCM was ever disconnected?
"KIT (P/N 12167313) CONTAINS ONE CONNECTOR SEAL. WHENEVER THE CONNECTOR IS UNBOLTED FROM THE ALUMINUM BODY OF THE PCM, THE SEAL CAN STICK TO THE BODY, OR MAY BE TWISTED. THIS SEAL SHOULD BE REPLACED WHENEVER THE CONNECTOR IS REMOVED IN SERVICE."
...or just make extensions using junkyard camaro parts... it's what i'm doing
Bringin this one up from the dead..
Another one for the how-to archive. It's hard to keep up with you guys! If anyone sees a how to that was written in the last year then pm it to me. I've been away for about a year and have probably missed a bunch of good write ups. Even if you didn't write it, or you're unsure if I've seen it, assume that I havent and it'll get "stuck" with the rest of them in the archive.
Good write up!
Good write up!
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2
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Ok here's some pics..
Find the PCM..that thing there in the corner.
Using a 7mm sized tool loosen the bolt in the middle of the top Connector..this is the blue Connector..
Remove the plastic guard..some are brittle..that's why this one is cracked..
If you look closely you can see the PIN Numbers above & below the wires..
Flip the Connector over and with a pic carefully remove the retaining clip..depress the little tab in the slot on each side of them and slightly pull..
To remove the Pin just push it forward a hair, then with your finger nail pull up on the tab..then pull the pin through the other side..
Then when you have the other one out just push it through and it locks in place. When you are finished put everything back together and you are done..
Here's the ones you switch again..
For 1998 F-body..
BLUE PCM CONNECTOR
SWITCH THESE WIRES
PINS:
1 <--> 5
2 <--> 6
41 <--> 46
42 <--> 47
For 1999-2002 F-body..
BLUE PCM CONNECTOR
SWITCH THESE WIRES
PINS:
25 <--> 26
28 <--> 29
65 <--> 66
68 <--> 69
If you notice in the pic I already have it done..that car is one of the guys that I live with..we just built it.
Find the PCM..that thing there in the corner.
Using a 7mm sized tool loosen the bolt in the middle of the top Connector..this is the blue Connector..
Remove the plastic guard..some are brittle..that's why this one is cracked..
If you look closely you can see the PIN Numbers above & below the wires..
Flip the Connector over and with a pic carefully remove the retaining clip..depress the little tab in the slot on each side of them and slightly pull..
To remove the Pin just push it forward a hair, then with your finger nail pull up on the tab..then pull the pin through the other side..
Then when you have the other one out just push it through and it locks in place. When you are finished put everything back together and you are done..
Here's the ones you switch again..
For 1998 F-body..
BLUE PCM CONNECTOR
SWITCH THESE WIRES
PINS:
1 <--> 5
2 <--> 6
41 <--> 46
42 <--> 47
For 1999-2002 F-body..
BLUE PCM CONNECTOR
SWITCH THESE WIRES
PINS:
25 <--> 26
28 <--> 29
65 <--> 66
68 <--> 69
If you notice in the pic I already have it done..that car is one of the guys that I live with..we just built it.
