View Poll Results: ????
Yes
10
66.67%
No
5
33.33%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll
Relocate my battery? Yes or no
09-14-2011, 07:56 AM
#22
Sounds like several good reasons to do it.
1/0 cable in NOT the size of a garden hose, that would be 4/0. 1/0 is the usual size to use when moving the battery to the rear. Using 1/0 wire actually exhibits less voltage drop from the trunk to the starter than the stock battery cables do. It really doesn't add as much weight as some might think. The 1/0 gauge wire only needs to get to the starter. From there to the alternator & front power center, 4 gauge is all that's ever needed.
Done correctly, this is a nice mod.
1/0 cable in NOT the size of a garden hose, that would be 4/0. 1/0 is the usual size to use when moving the battery to the rear. Using 1/0 wire actually exhibits less voltage drop from the trunk to the starter than the stock battery cables do. It really doesn't add as much weight as some might think. The 1/0 gauge wire only needs to get to the starter. From there to the alternator & front power center, 4 gauge is all that's ever needed.
Done correctly, this is a nice mod.
09-14-2011, 12:33 PM
#24
Most folks do this:
-Battery negative to a real good body point like a seat belt anchor bolt. Grind the paint down to raw metal.
-Battery positive to the starter.
-Positive from the starter to the alternator.
-Positive from the alternator to the front left under-hood power center.
-One extra ground strap from the under-hood body to the engine block.
If using a kill switch, it goes in the positive cable right where it comes from the battery.
You'll need proper crimped lugs on all cable ends. A thin coating of grease around where the copper goes into the lug and then a nice heat shrink over it keeps the connection fresh and corrosion free.
This mod is also good to feed the fuel pump relay a shorter distance rather than the stock skinny wire from the front of the car.
HUH, maybe I should offer my giant T&B adjustable crimp tool as a rental-like those guys with the lip roller do.
09-14-2011, 02:40 PM
#25
If you're installing a cutoff switch, it goes in the trunk between the battery and the positive cable. It will effectively kill everything.
Most folks do this:
-Battery negative to a real good body point like a seat belt anchor bolt. Grind the paint down to raw metal.
-Battery positive to the starter.
-Positive from the starter to the alternator.
-Positive from the alternator to the front left under-hood power center.
-One extra ground strap from the under-hood body to the engine block.
If using a kill switch, it goes in the positive cable right where it comes from the battery.
You'll need proper crimped lugs on all cable ends. A thin coating of grease around where the copper goes into the lug and then a nice heat shrink over it keeps the connection fresh and corrosion free.
This mod is also good to feed the fuel pump relay a shorter distance rather than the stock skinny wire from the front of the car.
HUH, maybe I should offer my giant T&B adjustable crimp tool as a rental-like those guys with the lip roller do.
Most folks do this:
-Battery negative to a real good body point like a seat belt anchor bolt. Grind the paint down to raw metal.
-Battery positive to the starter.
-Positive from the starter to the alternator.
-Positive from the alternator to the front left under-hood power center.
-One extra ground strap from the under-hood body to the engine block.
If using a kill switch, it goes in the positive cable right where it comes from the battery.
You'll need proper crimped lugs on all cable ends. A thin coating of grease around where the copper goes into the lug and then a nice heat shrink over it keeps the connection fresh and corrosion free.
This mod is also good to feed the fuel pump relay a shorter distance rather than the stock skinny wire from the front of the car.
HUH, maybe I should offer my giant T&B adjustable crimp tool as a rental-like those guys with the lip roller do.
I thought you needed to go:
Wire 1:
Battery -> kill switch -> starter -> power center
Wire 2:
Alternator -> kill switch
Wire 3 and 4 are grounds, as you described.
(stolen from someone else's post):
09-14-2011, 06:02 PM
#26
WOW NO. That diagram above will:
-Leave the alternator powered even when the kill switch is open.
-Make the alternator run it's juice all the way to the back of the car then via the starter back up front to power the car.
-You'd need to run a 4 gauge wire from front to rear.
The idea behind a kill/disconnect switch is to completely disconnect the battery from the rest of the car.
-Leave the alternator powered even when the kill switch is open.
-Make the alternator run it's juice all the way to the back of the car then via the starter back up front to power the car.
-You'd need to run a 4 gauge wire from front to rear.
The idea behind a kill/disconnect switch is to completely disconnect the battery from the rest of the car.
09-14-2011, 06:34 PM
#29
I did this about 15 years ago on my primary track car (that sees some weekend street duty). Since I was taking the car to the track often, I had already ditched the jack, tire iron, and spare. I therefore had the empty space to do it and the battery up front wasn't helping my launch/weight transfer, so I moved it. The weight of the plastic battery box is negligible and the extra cable may be a couple pounds. Well worth it to get that 33 lbs battery off the front where I don't need it and back over the right rear tire where I do need it.
However, I say worth it because it is the car I take to the track the most. On my "street only cars" I have done the lightweight battery thing a couple times over the years but haven't bothered to move any of their batteries to the rear.
However, I say worth it because it is the car I take to the track the most. On my "street only cars" I have done the lightweight battery thing a couple times over the years but haven't bothered to move any of their batteries to the rear.
