texas speed header fitment and install
On a side note:
TSP 1 7/8 headers w/ TSP y-pipe, locking bolts, gaskets= $620 (from TSP)
Kooks 1 7/8 headers w/ Kooks y-pipe, bolts, gaskets= $1171 (from maryland speed)
$550 dollar difference.
What's the torque specs on the header bolts to the head?
first pass : 11 lb ft
second pass 18 lb ft
and here is a link for all your future torque spec questions.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
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@bigdragon, I tightened my bolts on first pass to 17lb and left it at that. Since they are locking bolts, i presume they don't need to stretch their threads as tight, just keep the gasket sealed. if you go with regular bolts (not locking) then yeah go with what the manual says (11 then 18lb). ALso yeah, put the headers in first. I was able to tighten the header down completely and not have of an issue putting the driver side motor mount back in. but it probably would be best to leave it loose just in case. For the driver side we took the bracket completely out. for the passenger side we just left the mounting brackets in and only took out the center piece (the one you replace with a prothane piece).
Speed inc. ruin my weekend install,they send me 2 - 12" 02 sensor extensions instead of a 1 - 24" and 1 - 12".

I have both headers in and both poly M.M. in what a real pain in the rear that was would not do that again for anyone. I had to grind a small section off the subframe it was too close for to the header on the drivers side,but it took me way too long time wise by myself.
Tomorrow I'll finish the rest of it.
All done except the catted Y-pipe from Texas speed it will not bolt on directly. The passenger side header and cat will not slide in too darn tight and the merger will not slide in to my factory exhaust pipe,even if it did is too long it has to be cut. Very upsetting I'm gonna have to rent a car hauler and take it a Muffler shop and let them cut,heat and weld. I did not want to spend extra $ on this mod but I have to now.





