Breaking up above 5k rpms under load
Last night I jumped on it for a couple secs and it ran great I didnt look at the tach to see where it shifted but it hauled *** and shifted fine, today I take the car out and decided to do a wot pull, i had the shifter in 1 (not the brightest idea i know) and hit it from 20 to eliminate the downshift lag well when it hit about 5k the car started to break up pretty bad and had no power.
At first I thought the tach was just slow and I was hitting the limiter so I tried it again but left it in D the car downshifted fine but at 5k it started to break up very badly again and I just let off at that point the tach instantly dropped to 0 but everything else was still running fine with no weird noises. It stayed that way until I got a block from my appt and then the tach suddenly came back up and worked ok. I got back, popped the hood, and theres no weird noises coming from the engine, it drives fine at low rpm as best as I can tell, no codes either. I also revved the car to 6k in the driveway and it didnt breakup at all.
When I saw the tach drop to 0 I immediately thought of a bad cam sensor, but I've had one go bad before and in that case my tach never started working again and the car had a hard time starting due to it not knowing where the cam was. The car also has a brand new ractetronix fuel pump in it and ran great yesterday so i doubt its that. So I'm kind of at a loss here any suggestions?
Did you physically reach around and feel the backs of the heads? There should be like 1 on the passenger side and 2-3 on the driver side. I had my car on the dyno and the grounds were not tight on the driver side head and it was breaking up intermittently.
I had sort of the same problem yesterday. I've been driving the car around a little more lately since finally getting it aligned after cmoly k-member and QA1 install. Yesterday was the first time I really gave it a good whack and the car spun a bit then seemed to break up just a bit before the motor shut off
. After a very loud backfire
I threw it into neutral and coasted a bit to "listen" before deciding to fire it back up and it ran fine. After some conversing w/ my bretheren we were convinced it had to be a ground that was loosened by the car taking off. The car seems to idle a bit sluggish as well which I'm hoping is the ground just barely connected to where it should be.Long story long...I started a thread listing where ALL the grounds are on our cars in case you we're interested.
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The odd thing is that when the widebands are plugged into both sides of the engine, both banks go lean the same amount, misfire at the exact same time, and at the exact same rpm every time. The problem never fluctuates in the rpm band. So we're thinking that the chances of it being a bad coil, plug, or wire if very slim seeing that it happens all the time at the same time. Were going to try swapping coils with a known good set just to be sure and the fuel pressure was checked and holding good at 59psi up top.
They're thinking maybe a bad pcm since the problem is so exact, if it were a fubared ground or power wire or an ignition problem I'd think that it would be having issues at varying rpm points or on one bank.
when the crank walks the CKP sensor can't pick up the pulses from the reluctor wheel and you get no spark and no injector on both banks simultaneously;
yes, check all those things you said, and also you might want to check crankshaft end-play, hopefully it is not this.
when the crank walks the CKP sensor can't pick up the pulses from the reluctor wheel and you get no spark and no injector on both banks simultaneously;
yes, check all those things you said, and also you might want to check crankshaft end-play, hopefully it is not this.
Don't quote me on that though, that's an expensive guess. I'd see what else your tuner/shop finds and trust their decision. Maybe have him show the different sensors in a Tech2, log them and see if one of the crank or cam sensors is breaking up. If they're not failing, then it may be the PCM.
-=EDIT=-
Do you have a tach installed on the car, other than the stocker?? Just wondering if the connection could have corroded.
And page 20 is the PCM Pinout if you want it.
http://cs.chevroletclub.net/graphics...g.diagrams.pdf
Last edited by bayer-z28; Nov 24, 2011 at 09:26 AM.
This stuff just kills me because I normally do all of my own work including swapping the the ls6 into the car over the summer but I simply dont have the diagnostic tools, like a dyno, widebands tech 2 etc to diagnose this so I have to trust the shop which I do completely as they are well respected in south fl and are upstanding guys so i guess its just the waiting game at this point lol







