You are given a bone stock '02 M6 Z28 with 2k for upgrades. What do u choose?
#23
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i wouldn't opt for headers until you are ready for a cam. i'd redo the exhaust with whatever muffler you want and a nice ory in front of it. i bought my ory used for $45 haha.
pro 5.0 w/short stick of your choice
410 gears and girdle
chrs1313 ram air setup
tune
headers are a great addition to these cars, but i don't think they're necessary until you swap cams. learn to drive your car with those gears and a good aftermarket shifter. you'll be knocking down full exhaust cars left and right; dig, roll, backwards, whatever.
i also wouldn't buy any real sticky tires, unless you want to invest money repairing that 10 bolt soon.
pro 5.0 w/short stick of your choice
410 gears and girdle
chrs1313 ram air setup
tune
headers are a great addition to these cars, but i don't think they're necessary until you swap cams. learn to drive your car with those gears and a good aftermarket shifter. you'll be knocking down full exhaust cars left and right; dig, roll, backwards, whatever.
i also wouldn't buy any real sticky tires, unless you want to invest money repairing that 10 bolt soon.
#25
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i wouldn't opt for headers until you are ready for a cam. i'd redo the exhaust with whatever muffler you want and a nice ory in front of it. i bought my ory used for $45 haha.
pro 5.0 w/short stick of your choice
410 gears and girdle
chrs1313 ram air setup
tune
headers are a great addition to these cars, but i don't think they're necessary until you swap cams. learn to drive your car with those gears and a good aftermarket shifter. you'll be knocking down full exhaust cars left and right; dig, roll, backwards, whatever.
i also wouldn't buy any real sticky tires, unless you want to invest money repairing that 10 bolt soon.
pro 5.0 w/short stick of your choice
410 gears and girdle
chrs1313 ram air setup
tune
headers are a great addition to these cars, but i don't think they're necessary until you swap cams. learn to drive your car with those gears and a good aftermarket shifter. you'll be knocking down full exhaust cars left and right; dig, roll, backwards, whatever.
i also wouldn't buy any real sticky tires, unless you want to invest money repairing that 10 bolt soon.
I'm going to run street tires for quite some time. I'd like to grab a different set of wheels with 315's in the back, but I wont see hardly any track time (if any) until I get a 9". ATM I can't risk the rear end. Maybe by summer of 2012 I'll be able to afford a rear, then we'll see.
#27
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..............
So far, I'm looking at Pacesetter LT's with TS ORY-pipe. from TSP (sponsor). A friend is telling me to dump it right after that to save money, but I'm really keen to this Borla cat-back. After that I'm looking at a shifter (stock one feels like im rowing a boat compared to when I drove my dads vette.) and being in Florida, I need to grab some window tint.
Edit: and if money is left over, I was thinking SFC's.
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#29
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i believe a couple people in front of me mentioned tires. lest we forget, these 10 bolts are, in fact, made of glass and will break. how soon is up to the owner. i refuse to put DRs on my m6 car because of this reason. i've had 3 4th gen fbodies, 1 a4 and 2 m6s. i learned my lesson the first go-round with my last m6.
#31
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FIRST, ask yourself what is your power goal and use for the car? Answer realistically. Now, whatever you spend the 2k on, make sure it's a step in that direction. N20? 100 shot+tune. N/A or Procharger? Start with exhaust and gears. This way you're not wasting your money and doing mods over again or differently.
Shop the classifieds section for killer deals. You'd be surprised what that $2k can get you in new or like new parts
exhaust, lower springs, good shocks, even a procharger kit if you can save up a little more on top of what you have already.
My honest opinion, the number one purchase regardless of your power and build goal is a rear axle. If you can find a rear for $2k or less then jump on it. With steep gears it will be the same gains as full exhaust. Because once you start adding power, **** breaks, even if it's just exhaust. If I could start over again I would've bought fab 9" from the start.
But......I think that 100 shot of nitrous would be the funnest way to set off a stock car
Shop the classifieds section for killer deals. You'd be surprised what that $2k can get you in new or like new parts
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
My honest opinion, the number one purchase regardless of your power and build goal is a rear axle. If you can find a rear for $2k or less then jump on it. With steep gears it will be the same gains as full exhaust. Because once you start adding power, **** breaks, even if it's just exhaust. If I could start over again I would've bought fab 9" from the start.
But......I think that 100 shot of nitrous would be the funnest way to set off a stock car
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#32
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FIRST, ask yourself what is your power goal and use for the car? Answer realistically. Now, whatever you spend the 2k on, make sure it's a step in that direction. N20? 100 shot+tune. N/A or Procharger? Start with exhaust and gears. This way you're not wasting your money and doing mods over again or differently.
Shop the classifieds section for killer deals. You'd be surprised what that $2k can get you in new or like new parts
exhaust, lower springs, good shocks, even a procharger kit if you can save up a little more on top of what you have already.
My honest opinion, the number one purchase regardless of your power and build goal is a rear axle. If you can find a rear for $2k or less then jump on it. With steep gears it will be the same gains as full exhaust. Because once you start adding power, **** breaks, even if it's just exhaust. If I could start over again I would've bought fab 9" from the start.
But......I think that 100 shot of nitrous would be the funnest way to set off a stock car![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Shop the classifieds section for killer deals. You'd be surprised what that $2k can get you in new or like new parts
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
My honest opinion, the number one purchase regardless of your power and build goal is a rear axle. If you can find a rear for $2k or less then jump on it. With steep gears it will be the same gains as full exhaust. Because once you start adding power, **** breaks, even if it's just exhaust. If I could start over again I would've bought fab 9" from the start.
But......I think that 100 shot of nitrous would be the funnest way to set off a stock car
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
My ultimate goals are a 10second Daily driver (Isn't everyones?). I'm not sure how I'll get there just yet. I would like to see a procharger down the road though. I have no interest in nitrous and I know too little about turbos and tuning. I want to be at least comparable to my old Trans Am that had a ZZ502.
#34
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Really appreciate your post. I'll have to check the classifieds section though, I've never bought used in the past due to being worried about fraud.
My ultimate goals are a 10second Daily driver (Isn't everyones?). I'm not sure how I'll get there just yet. I would like to see a procharger down the road though. I have no interest in nitrous and I know too little about turbos and tuning. I want to be at least comparable to my old Trans Am that had a ZZ502.
My ultimate goals are a 10second Daily driver (Isn't everyones?). I'm not sure how I'll get there just yet. I would like to see a procharger down the road though. I have no interest in nitrous and I know too little about turbos and tuning. I want to be at least comparable to my old Trans Am that had a ZZ502.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
#35
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well for about 2500 ive turned a bone stock car into a full blown h/c/i car...
ls6 intake with bbk tb $400
233/239 cam $275
yella rockers $250
oil pump $75
timing chain $30
243 heads with gaskets and bolts $450
pac 1518 springs $180
ebay l/t headers $170
tsp ory $150
magnaflow catback $400
slp lid $90
3600 stall $200
thats what ive bought,most of it from the classifieds here,and ive only been hunting for about a month,take your time and get the right parts the first time,my car should be in the 11's or damn close with what i have here
ls6 intake with bbk tb $400
233/239 cam $275
yella rockers $250
oil pump $75
timing chain $30
243 heads with gaskets and bolts $450
pac 1518 springs $180
ebay l/t headers $170
tsp ory $150
magnaflow catback $400
slp lid $90
3600 stall $200
thats what ive bought,most of it from the classifieds here,and ive only been hunting for about a month,take your time and get the right parts the first time,my car should be in the 11's or damn close with what i have here
#36
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Considering that the rear end is the weak link on a 6 speed car, hind sight being 20/20, (read sig, lol) I would buy a used 9 inch and a set of et streets and side step the clutch until the clutch came apart, lol. Than id replace it with something more stout. At least than you know your drive train is in "OK" shape. Just my .02
#37
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if my car is stock again and 2002 like yours and I want to go fast for cheap I`d do this:
1-free mods
2-Lid + holley filter + black MSD wires
3-plastic MAF ends
4-ported stock TB
5-stealthy cam (116-117 Lobe) ,springs,ls7 lifters,HS stock rebuild rockers,hardened pushrods and a double timing chain
6-3" cut-out before muffler
7-pro 5.0 shifter with short stick and an aftermarket ****
8-100-150 hp wet shot with rpm switch
9-Dyno tune
Later mods:
stock heads CNC ported + retune
4channel 12 bolt or 9inch with spec 3 or 3+ clutch and sticky tyres
used suspension parts gradually as required
1-free mods
2-Lid + holley filter + black MSD wires
3-plastic MAF ends
4-ported stock TB
5-stealthy cam (116-117 Lobe) ,springs,ls7 lifters,HS stock rebuild rockers,hardened pushrods and a double timing chain
6-3" cut-out before muffler
7-pro 5.0 shifter with short stick and an aftermarket ****
8-100-150 hp wet shot with rpm switch
9-Dyno tune
Later mods:
stock heads CNC ported + retune
4channel 12 bolt or 9inch with spec 3 or 3+ clutch and sticky tyres
used suspension parts gradually as required
Last edited by Bader-X; 11-26-2011 at 06:40 PM.