Header Install Question (pic)
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Chicago IL
Header Install Question (pic) My car is awaiting its Kooks Long Tube Headers. I have the old exhaust and the AIR system out.
I just finished jacking the car up higher to prepare for the install. From the ground to the bottom of the front bumper is just over 2ft. Is this high enough to install Kooks?
Sorry about the picture, my camera sucks when taking low light pictures.
I just finished jacking the car up higher to prepare for the install. From the ground to the bottom of the front bumper is just over 2ft. Is this high enough to install Kooks?
Sorry about the picture, my camera sucks when taking low light pictures.
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From: Bridgeport OH
When I did my Flowtechs, I needed the minimum of 15" from the bottom of the passenger side tire to the floor. The angle that the headers needed to go in from the bottom required that much in height. I cannot say for Kooks, but I hope that gives you an idea.
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From: California
I installed kooks lt's with those same jack stands. The front of your car is perfect now get the back just as high. You will need every inch because the drivers side kooks goes in totally vertical. Get some boards underneath those back jack stands. I actually had mine lower in the back at first and I ended up jacking the back up to match the front 
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I just did my install 2 weeks ago and you are definately high enough.
Couple of things..
1. Place the jack under the K member for safety. The front stands look a little too far back not to have a support in the front as well.
2. Take your time getting those headers in. The passenger side will slide in with someclever rotating but the driver side may require you to grind the K member, remove the Oil filter and possibly the drain bolt. I know I had to.
Good Luck.
Couple of things..
1. Place the jack under the K member for safety. The front stands look a little too far back not to have a support in the front as well.
2. Take your time getting those headers in. The passenger side will slide in with someclever rotating but the driver side may require you to grind the K member, remove the Oil filter and possibly the drain bolt. I know I had to.
Good Luck.
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Thats looks high enough to me. Mine as about half that high for my install, but then again, I was only installing MAC's. I agree with Dark Age, I would put some blocks or ramps under the front tires, just in case. And one more thing to think about, that might be too high, since you will have to work under the hood. My front end was on about 12" of blocks, and I had some trouble getting far back in the engine bay. I had to uss a paint can to stand on so I could get some leverage. I am 5'10" btw. Good luck!
i ended up just ziptieing the headers to the a/c condensor and lowering the car back down a bit with a jackstand under the pass. header to keep it semi supported...since i was doing it on my own this seemed like the best way so i dont think the car is up too high...definitly i agree with the others in supporting the front end a little better.
ries. I bungeed mine to the hood latch once I had them in and then lowered the front from the high jack stands onto ramps. This was an adequate height for me reach in to tighten the headers while a buddy held them from below and left us both comfortable with the saftey of the ramps. Once that was done, I torqued them, put the valve covers back on followed by the coil packs, plug cables, and intake and fired it up. I suggest you do the same. Not only is it a good idea to check for leaks around the flanges but gives the exscuse to try out the open headers. Enjoy the rumble. 
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From: Mentor, Ohio
I had to take out my passenger side Grottyohann header last summer because the air tube broke off and I had to get the hole welded closed. I had my SS about that high and it came right out. If I were you though I would get another pair of ramps and plce them under the front tires for your protection. A friend of mine has a 1996 LT4 Vette and he got some railroad ties and cut them down to (16) 2ft long sections and got some 18 inch long spikes to tie them together. He attach two sections together side-by-side and then attached two more to the top but perpendicular to the bottom pair. Along with the spikes to attach the ties together he also used construction adhesive to hold them together. There is no fear with these under all four wheels.
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From: Mi./Al.
Here's a tip you don't hear much about, place a shop rag into the motor mount opening on both sides. If you drop a bolt or spark plug into the motor mount when removing them you'll understand why I suggest this.
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From: Mentor, Ohio
Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53
Here's a tip you don't hear much about, place a shop rag into the motor mount opening on both sides. If you drop a bolt or spark plug into the motor mount when removing them you'll understand why I suggest this.
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From: Mi./Al.
I'm not trying to insult you Judas but I've gone to the trouble of finding a link that might help the family of anyone that might use that method, enjoy. www.funeraldepot.com
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From: Calgary
Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53
I'm not trying to insult you Judas but I've gone to the trouble of finding a link that might help the family of anyone that might use that method, enjoy. www.funeraldepot.com
