i recently installed some kooks header on my car. Many people read the stickys but most are not very detailed or say what went wrong. On a car lift with two people it took 3 hrs to do so. I also used pb spray on the bolts a week before came off like butter!
#1 What we did was first unglug ground from battery and remove dipstick. Its a 15mm bolt on the head on pull it straight out.
#2 remove 02 sensors from the exhaust they just unclip.
#3 go under the car and cut with a saw zaw or remove bolts of your old exhaust.
#4 remove your cats from the manifolds. I used a airgun
#5 remove both back two spark plugs and wires from coil pack and spark plug.
#6 while the car is still in the air remove you air if you are not going to have a air provision on your car. It is on the driver side were the flap for the blinker bulb is. There are 4 bolts that hold it in. I got all of them out and pulled and it wouldnt come. So i went to the top and moved the fuse box the whole thing just un clips. Once you do so you can see were the braket maybe holding it on. Its a simple fix just get needle nose and rip em off. The air will come out. Remove to power to the air motor and the two tubes. Put electrical tape around the power wire end. Then bolt it back up.
#7lower car and remove the air thats on the top of the manifolds.
#8 then remove the air from the passenger side of the head(you can see were all of the hose goes too). There is one bolt on the side you can see, unbolt it and it slides up and off. You must take off the hoses, and plug the hole that was on the top with a vaccum plug.
#9 remove all tubing.
#10 then remove all of plugs and wires.
#11 you may want to remove the passenger side coil packs. They come off with 5 bolts and all of them come off together.
#12 then start removing all of the manifold bolts. Mine all came off fine. All from the top.
#13 scrap the head be careful!!!
#14 get your headers and go under the car. The drivers side is the hardest. I had to get mine vertically and go up and tilt it to the head. I didnt need to grind or move anything. the passenger side will go right in. Tighten some bolts from the top and some from the bottom you can if you can get it from the top or bottom. Remember headers are like hookers the more you pay the better they are!!!
#15 put the plugs back in.
#16 put coil pack back on
#17 put wires back on.
#18 use 02 extension and put in the 02's.
#19 put the dip stick back in and screw in the 15 mm bolt.
#20 you are done start up the car and hear it roar.

 

I honestly wish I hadn't paid 800 bucks to get a shop to do it...
It seems so easy.

 

$800 for just the install? Holy crap bro you got straight taken. Did they give you a lap dance with that too?

 

800 is waaaaaaaaay to much!

 

If you did a motor mount swap too that seems ALMOST legit of a price. I did a MM swap when I put my headers on, and TBH I probably would charge about $5-600 to do that to someone else's car.

 

Are they really that bad?

 

Dayummmm, I usually charge 125 to swap them.

 

As long as you have patience and at least a little mechanical skill, headers aren't a problem. On the MM though, I wish I would have just paid somebody to do those.

 

Where do you live?

 

Somebody drove a tractor trailer inside your ******* and turned it around man. That's way too much, literally 2x what most shops charge (assuming motor mounts weren't replaced).

 

yea 800 would be way to much to pay for something that takes 2 hours to do i charge 150 to put headers and y pipe both on a car and i feel im makeing really good money at that

 

I'm getting motor mounts, and headers installed for a flat 450$. We assumed speciality work..so 70$/hr=3hrs motor mounts. 3hrs headers...Sounds fair to me...Wish I could do it myself but I have not the time...

 

It was 800 for the headers, mounts, and a little welding ( they closed up the EGR and AIR and fixed a couple dents in the headers ).
So ya I totally got ripped off, but they were literally the only shop in town that would do it.

 

somthing that should be mentioned, sand your heads with 220 grit paper alowing for a flush fit from header to gasket to head, trust me what ever ends up in the head port is comign right back out soon as you start it up anyway and onto of that no one likes a leaky header connection.

 

it looks easy as your read but those little things that mess the whole thing up..