Header bolt stuck in head...
Header bolt stuck in head... Ok, well fortunately it's the drivers side so I can actually reach this one. I was hoping it wouldn't have to come out, but after I got the stock manifolds off I realized (from an owner before) there was a bolt half backed out with the head broken off of it. The very last bolt back on the headers. Of course it is leaking somehow when the manifolds did not (might I add the pass side was also missing this bolt at first start-up because I got sick of it trying to cross-thread and wanted to hear it! it never did leak). Anyways, any tips on making it work this way, or tricks for getting that pesky bolt out? I'm thinking take all the bolts out push the header to the side and hope I can get enough grip/twist on that turd of a bolt with some vice-grips. It has about 1/2" sticking out (about the thickness of the header flange) so I'm hoping Ive got enough room... what if I dont..? =/
If you can get a torch in there, try heating it up (without blowing anything up), then daub an old candle on it, let it cool and try using some good vise-grips on the shank. Work it back and forth an eight-turn or so to see if it's freed up, if not heat it some more until it is...
^good idea! Or even a bolt so it will stick out farther for a better grip. If you have a little dremmel you could also cut some notches on it so you could get something over it perhaps
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Disneyland or St Louis
This guy has the correct answer.
Don't weld a bolt to it and don't use a torch. Weld a nut to the broken bolt.
Put the nut on so that the nut is flush with the top of the broken bolt if there is room, then hit it hard with a hammer before you weld the nut. Not so hard that you bend it, just a good firm hit.
Be ready with an air ratchet or a good manual ratchet.
Weld the nut then wait till the nut cools so that the bright red and dull red color has just gone. Then start loosing the bolt, once you break it free go as fast as you can and do not stop until the bolt is all the way out.
There is a sweet spot for the heat just after the dull red color is gone that is best for extracting bolts. Don't wait too long to start turning or you might not get it out. If you start turning when its bright red you could break the nut free from the broken bolt.
You should weld a couple of nuts to bolts on a bench and watch them cool so you know what your looking for when it comes time to get the broken bolt out. You don't want to learn by mistake here.
Good luck
Last edited by No Hope; Mar 3, 2012 at 12:56 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
From: Disneyland or St Louis
If you snap the remaining bolt off flush you will have to pull the head.
I would try Kroil and Holy Water if your going in that direction.
I have succeeded in welding a nut to a fush broken bolt many many times (working on TPI engines, for some reason one of the drivers side front intake bolts tends to break when removing). anyway, the trick I use it, I first weld a flat washer to the broken part the washer allows you to see the weld puddle and aim in the enter. Then tack a weld to the washer and it should come out. I've used this and the 1st method on most anything from broken intake to header bolts, exhaust bolt etc.... works like a charm each and every time. Do make sure you use non plated hardware
Just a note-if you heat the bolt without heating the head, it'll be tighter in the head as it will expand from the heat.
I'd run the engine to heat the head then work on the bolt again. Don't get burned!
I'd run the engine to heat the head then work on the bolt again. Don't get burned!
No access to a welder for me... But that is an amazing idea! I know a guy that can weld for me but getting the header out of the way is gonna be the pita.... It's welded to my exhaust bah. If I end up cutting off again I guess I have to haha
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 234
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From: Disneyland or St Louis
Welding a nut on is the best way, don't heat the bolt first. I have taken out countless bolts this way.
Kroil Oil is the best penetrating oil I have ever used. Its hard to find but you can order it from the manufacture. Its worth any effort you have to make to get it.
Apply the Kroil oil (or the penetrating oil you have) 3 times a day for 2 days. Before you apply the oil hit the broken bolt hard with a hammer, but don't hit it so hard that you bend it and it should come out with a pair of vise grips.
The phone number for the manufacture is 615 833 4101 the company name is Kano Laboratories.
Kroil Oil is the best penetrating oil I have ever used. Its hard to find but you can order it from the manufacture. Its worth any effort you have to make to get it.
Apply the Kroil oil (or the penetrating oil you have) 3 times a day for 2 days. Before you apply the oil hit the broken bolt hard with a hammer, but don't hit it so hard that you bend it and it should come out with a pair of vise grips.
The phone number for the manufacture is 615 833 4101 the company name is Kano Laboratories.
Unfortunately I haven't head time yet to give it a shot. Our little girl's c-section/due date got bumped up suddenly to (we thought last week) this coming wednesday! sooo all my free time has been spent scrambling to get everything ready for her arrival lol. on a sidenote. the HEAD of the bolt is all that broke off, so the entire flange thickness is what I have to work with, doesn't look like I'm gonna have enough space for a welder to get back in there. So what I'm going to do is leave it alone for now as it does eventually seal off when everything is warmed up and expands. Cold starts annoy me a bit.. but I almost always let the car idle a good 5-10 minutes anyways before leaving (good habit to start for later anyways right? lol).
I am going to see if I can get it out easily with vice grips without ruining the threads and subsequently the nut idea at some point.. but most likely it's going to wait until I either pull the heads to take for some port and polish work (we have a really good local machine shop that does CNC heads) or get new heads from AFR or TSP... either way that bolt will be a LOT easier to fool with then.
I am going to see if I can get it out easily with vice grips without ruining the threads and subsequently the nut idea at some point.. but most likely it's going to wait until I either pull the heads to take for some port and polish work (we have a really good local machine shop that does CNC heads) or get new heads from AFR or TSP... either way that bolt will be a LOT easier to fool with then.
alright guys update on this. I grabbed a new header gasket just for S&G and x'ed my fingers that if I couldnt get the bolt out that would fix it. No room for welding a bolt on, and just enough room to lock vice grips down onto it (but couldn't turn them). any other ideas, or am I saving for some head studs and machine work or new heads... (not that I would mind that but that's a huge expense lol) May try vice grips again with kroil for round two.. I only had PB blaster available this time around.