New Water Pump, Engine Overheats!
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
New Water Pump, Engine Overheats! So heres the deal. I installed a New waterpump during my Fast 102 install so that i did not have to grind the top tab off. I replaced the water pump with AC Delco #252846, OEM#19195105 It is the LS2 pump that is the same as LS1 but pressed together instead of bolted. Car never Overheated before with my stock pump. Im thinking that for some reason it must be a bad pump, but the thing is not leaking or making any types of noises.
I also installed the new 2 piece thermostat, and i tried it with both a stock 185, and a 160 degreee stat, still overheats. I then put my stock 1 piece back on that i know is good, still over heats.
Heres the deal, Air blows cold when heat is on ever though its overheating. I also have no flow to the top of the pump, when i pull the line off after it has overheated, no coolant comes out of the top hose or the pump.
Im just confused, because i have never seen a stock pump come from the factory broke.......any one have any ideas? i am at a losss. And yes i bled the crap out of any air in the system and still cant get any flow out of the pump. WTF? because correct me if im wrong the impeller in the pump should spin the same was as stock and should not be reverse flow....
I really dont want to order a new pump again, but if thats what i have to do ill do it, any input would be great!
I also installed the new 2 piece thermostat, and i tried it with both a stock 185, and a 160 degreee stat, still overheats. I then put my stock 1 piece back on that i know is good, still over heats.
Heres the deal, Air blows cold when heat is on ever though its overheating. I also have no flow to the top of the pump, when i pull the line off after it has overheated, no coolant comes out of the top hose or the pump.
Im just confused, because i have never seen a stock pump come from the factory broke.......any one have any ideas? i am at a losss. And yes i bled the crap out of any air in the system and still cant get any flow out of the pump. WTF? because correct me if im wrong the impeller in the pump should spin the same was as stock and should not be reverse flow....
I really dont want to order a new pump again, but if thats what i have to do ill do it, any input would be great!
1.) Verify the serpentine belt is routed properly, and not spinning the water pump backwards. Not sure it's even possible on an LS engine but best to rule it out.
2.) As the previous guy said, be sure you filled the block w/ coolant by removing the upper radiator hose from the rad fitting and pouring coolant down the hose and into the block. If you just pour coolant into the rad, overheating is guaranteed as no coolant can get into the block via this route.
2.) As the previous guy said, be sure you filled the block w/ coolant by removing the upper radiator hose from the rad fitting and pouring coolant down the hose and into the block. If you just pour coolant into the rad, overheating is guaranteed as no coolant can get into the block via this route.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
Yea, I have done that multiple times and I have never had a ls engine that has had to burp so much. It's crazy. I'm going to try pouring more into the block again for the third time. We will see how it goes and I'll post back again.....
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
Yea, i have filled through the waterneck on the pump now for the 4th time, damn i have put more coolant in there than what originally came out, thats why i am surprised that i have had to take the line off and fill it through there so many times. I am going to have to wait until tomorrow to pick up another couple jugs of coolant......This has just been pissing me off! car runs amazing considering i havent tuned it yet, damn thing just keeps overheating!
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
oh yea, trust me when it get to temp those fans kick on and are working, the **** just keeps on getting hot with no flow, because the top hose is empty and i see no circulation when the cap is off. Once i get more coolant tommorrow ill let you guys know. I already put a half a jug through the top of the waterpump to the block.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
No, never seen or used one of those crazy funnels in 12+ years of being a mechanic haha. If the block has a huge air pocket in it like i am 100% positve of now, the easiest way to get coolant in there is to pour it directly into the block like i have been doing, its just been apparently taking alot longer than any other vehicle i remember working on lol. Once the pump/block gets primed i should be golden, lets hope!
I just changed the water pump on my 99 SS and I drained the coolant from the radiator until it stopped. I put the new pump on and filled it from the radiator slowly until I couldn't get any more in it, then I fired the car up with the radiator cap off and let it run and the air that was in there came out and I was able to fill it up completely. It seems like it took almost 2 gallons to fill it back up completely. I did some data logging today with hp tuners and it never really got over 190 degrees after 20 minutes of driving.
My uncle's LT1 had an overheating problem and it wouldn't blow out hot air either when the heater was on. Turns out, the heater core was plugged up with old gelled up dexcool. He took it to a shop and they had a setup where they could run a shot of compressed air through it and it got all of that sludge out.
My uncle's LT1 had an overheating problem and it wouldn't blow out hot air either when the heater was on. Turns out, the heater core was plugged up with old gelled up dexcool. He took it to a shop and they had a setup where they could run a shot of compressed air through it and it got all of that sludge out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
So yea, about 1 more gallon of coolant solved the problem, the pump was just cavitated and needed more coolant in there. Now im good to go as far as the overheating issue.
Now, I just need to fix my Return to Idle problem. I havent tuned it yet, but im hoping after i take it for a test drive the PCM will somewhat relearn the idle. It will idle high at about 1200 or so then drop down to where it should be after about 30 seconds. But when i put it in gear to move it will rev high around 3-4k and stay there for a few second before going back down. We will see......hopefully after a test drive it will fix the idle issue a little bit. once i get it tuned then i should be good
Now, I just need to fix my Return to Idle problem. I havent tuned it yet, but im hoping after i take it for a test drive the PCM will somewhat relearn the idle. It will idle high at about 1200 or so then drop down to where it should be after about 30 seconds. But when i put it in gear to move it will rev high around 3-4k and stay there for a few second before going back down. We will see......hopefully after a test drive it will fix the idle issue a little bit. once i get it tuned then i should be good
I have never seen one of those before. Who makes it? I usually did like someone said earlier and fill the car and then let it heat up with the cap off the car and then shut the car off and let it cool down. Then I add coolant once the car is cool and repeat again if necessary.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Lisle makes the coolant fill funnel and adapter kit. It can be bought on any tool truck, sears and I have even seen them on amazon.com. I have been a Chrysler mechanic for 10 years now and I swear by them. They cost around $25 for everything you see in the picture. I like the 25 dollar funnel better than my 200 dollar air lift to be perfectly honest.
