t 56 cant shift at wot
#21
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FWIW clutch dust will always get past the seals in slave, that is how the fluid gets dirty. Though it should not be pitch black after a few short drives. I would flush it a few more times, or have a buddy pump clutch while you crack the bleeder on the slave. If it has been dirty for a while, your seals can be trashed in the master and slave.
#23
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FWIW I ran the LS7 clutch and flywheel combo from Colorado Speed on my old 01 NBM Z/28 (bolt-on car), loved it. I am now running a Monster Stage II in the C5Z06 and Spec Stage III in the 99. If you are planning H/C/I or power adders down the road, you may consider a monster etc...
#24
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..I would try the master before pulling the trans to change slave and clutch, I have gotten away with just changing out the master in the past. You have the right idea though, might as well change both if the trans is indeed coming out. The OEM GM slave is just fine, so go with that again.
FWIW I ran the LS7 clutch and flywheel combo from Colorado Speed on my old 01 NBM Z/28 (bolt-on car), loved it. I am now running a Monster Stage II in the C5Z06 and Spec Stage III in the 99. If you are planning H/C/I or power adders down the road, you may consider a monster etc...
FWIW I ran the LS7 clutch and flywheel combo from Colorado Speed on my old 01 NBM Z/28 (bolt-on car), loved it. I am now running a Monster Stage II in the C5Z06 and Spec Stage III in the 99. If you are planning H/C/I or power adders down the road, you may consider a monster etc...
Now if i do have to take the tranny out would it be worth it to get the ls7 clutch for now instead of the monster stage II since i wont be getting a H/C/I for awhile prob next spring ?
When i get the tick's master, do i have to bleed out the old one first or just swap and im all set ? I'm hoping it wont fill up with black fluid again. If it does will it ruin the new one at all ?
Last edited by ryangtp89; 06-03-2012 at 11:50 AM.
#25
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Flush the clutch hydraulics at the slave, there is a bleeder at the slave. You will need a buddy to help. Once it starts to flush clean, close the bleeder and remove the old MC. You will want to bench bleed the new MC before installation, then you should be good to go. I would go ahead and get the monster setup.
#26
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I checked out tick's site and came across the remote clutch speed bleeder, it's only $50
Would bleeding it stop the black fluid or if it still shows up after bleeding means i need a new clutch ?
Would bleeding it stop the black fluid or if it still shows up after bleeding means i need a new clutch ?
#30
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My fluid was black when I checked it a week ago in the master cylinder, tryed the turkey baster idea and it didn't really do much, my trans was still noisy... So I went ahead and cut a hole by gas pedal on floor board to access slave bleed valve( under carpet) and bled slave.... Now my trans is like 90% quieter, clutch grabs a lot harder, ride even feels smoother, shifter and all!!! Plz bleed first before wasting money, a lot of people never take the time to try cause bleed valve is in pain in the *** spot, I thought my clutch was going out before also, hell 4th gear was popping out and reverse would grind and pop out daily