t 56 cant shift at wot
t 56 cant shift at wot I'm pretty sure my clutch/tranny is going anyways but anyways from 1st to 2nd at or near wot I can't shift into 2nd i don't know if its the skipshift cause I have a cags maybe its not working. And reverse is sometimes grinds and pops out. Also from 6th I can't shift into 5th I have to get into 4th or 3rd then I can get into 5th.
Definitely could be synchros and or clutch issue. Before you tear it out for a rebuild, check the clutch master cylinder and reservoir. I would atleast check it and try flushing it first. Does your pedal stick to the floor between WOT shifts?
Well I can't afford a tranny rebuild or clutch anytime soon soo maybe have my master flushed ? Idk cause I never get too really do any wot shifts. The shifter is somewhat sticky. I put in a pro 5.0 with a shortstick this spring but that should be fine. Would a skipshift keep me from shifting into 2nd at wot ?
Nah the skip shift would not lock you out of 2nd at WOT. Check that reservoir 1st, bet you the clutch fluid is dirty. Use the ranger protocol to flush that master, have been doing it this way for years. You will have to flush several times over the course of a few days.
Link
http://rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
The video is worth the 7 mins of your life
Link
http://rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
The video is worth the 7 mins of your life
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Time to flush it for sure and see if the symptoms get better. Keep in mind you are going to need to do this several times, even if it does not look that dirty after some driving.
That isn't a bad idea either!
That isn't a bad idea either!
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Verdad Gallardo Should i use the gm or the prestone ? Soo i should prob get a few cans of clutch fluid ? and a turkey bastiner ? soo i just suck it out and add some then push the clutch 30 times then check the fluid again ?
With regard to the line mod, there are some good write ups here. I have done it on past cars, not doing it on these two though. I am going to be putting tick masters in both pretty soon.
Sounds pretty straight forward. I would like to get the ticks master adjustable but they are pretty expensive. Is the clutch line mod somewhat the same as ticks ?
The master to slave clutch line mod is a good interim solution that can address sticky pedal, difficult shifts at WOT. I am not sure on diameter vs the tick. Overall the Tick is a superior MC and can be rebuilt if the internal seals ever get trashed.
Okay i did it, i sucked out the old fluid added fresh fluid and pumped the clutch slowly 30 times, then refilled it and repeated it about 25 times, got clear but still gets a small cigarette like smoke trail coming from the bottom of the hole in the reservoir sometimes its only a thin line sometimes alittle bigger. after i got sick of just using the turkey baster i hooked up the baster to my vacuum and sucked it out every time, i used a whole bottle of dot 3 then i did it twice with dot 4 and kept dot 4 in it, its defently alot smoother now and soo far the some what wot (4-4500rpm) shift from 1st to 2nd is good i can actually do it. But i think my tranny/clutch is getting tired shes a bit noisy, no grinding but alot racket, and whining. maybe i should take a video ?
I was having trouble going from 1st to 2nd at wot, like 2nd was locked out I could at lower rpm's. It was my clutch. After I replaced the clutch all was well. Bet it's your clutch as well. Prob nothing as simple as a fluid swap.
I was hoping the fluid swap whould help it out, it did but its already black again from a quick rid. I wanted to get a stage 2 monster clutch and a tick master adjustable but i bought headers instead soo i was thinking a ls7 clutch and a ls6 master ?
First off if I couldn't afford parts I wouldn't be going WOT . FWIW the "black" is clutch dust that's gotten past the slave seals. "Turkey basting" it doesn't get the black out at the bottom by the slave where it's coming from. It's better to bleed it thoroughly thru the bottom and is another reason a remote bleeder is a great investment if you have the tranny pulled. Sometimes a "stuck" pedal at WOT is caused by a weak PP and a new and better clutch fixes it.
. FWIW the "black" is clutch dust that's gotten past the slave seals. "Turkey basting" it doesn't get the black out at the bottom by the slave where it's coming from. It's better to bleed it thoroughly thru the bottom and is another reason a remote bleeder is a great investment if you have the tranny pulled. Sometimes a "stuck" pedal at WOT is caused by a weak PP and a new and better clutch fixes it. First off if I couldn't afford parts I wouldn't be going WOT . FWIW the "black" is clutch dust that's gotten past the slave seals. "Turkey basting" it doesn't get the black out at the bottom by the slave where it's coming from. It's better to bleed it thoroughly thru the bottom and is another reason a remote bleeder is a great investment if you have the tranny pulled. Sometimes a "stuck" pedal at WOT is caused by a weak PP and a new and better clutch fixes it.
. FWIW the "black" is clutch dust that's gotten past the slave seals. "Turkey basting" it doesn't get the black out at the bottom by the slave where it's coming from. It's better to bleed it thoroughly thru the bottom and is another reason a remote bleeder is a great investment if you have the tranny pulled. Sometimes a "stuck" pedal at WOT is caused by a weak PP and a new and better clutch fixes it.